Rear Window Frame rubbbing...?
02-05-2008, 10:38 PM
#1
Racer
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Rear Window Frame rubbbing...?
Hey everybody, I recently notice that the (what I call it) pin block that holds the pins onto the hatch is rubbing rather badly on the body of the car when shut.
I have nooo clue how I should go about trying to fix this, so any input is greatly appreciated.
BTW, my window is severely de-lamenated on the same side.
Thanks
I have nooo clue how I should go about trying to fix this, so any input is greatly appreciated.
BTW, my window is severely de-lamenated on the same side.
Thanks
02-06-2008, 12:23 AM
#2
you already know the answer
I had the same problem.
Because the glass is delaminated, the rear hatch is longer than it should be. Further evidence of this is the fact that your red paint is chipped at the back edge of the latching well because your plunger frame is striking and or riding against it.
Only fix is to remove and reseal the frame, unfortunately.
Because the glass is delaminated, the rear hatch is longer than it should be. Further evidence of this is the fact that your red paint is chipped at the back edge of the latching well because your plunger frame is striking and or riding against it.
Only fix is to remove and reseal the frame, unfortunately.
02-06-2008, 01:28 AM
#3
Racer
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I had the same problem.
Because the glass is delaminated, the rear hatch is longer than it should be. Further evidence of this is the fact that your red paint is chipped at the back edge of the latching well because your plunger frame is striking and or riding against it.
Only fix is to remove and reseal the frame, unfortunately.
Because the glass is delaminated, the rear hatch is longer than it should be. Further evidence of this is the fact that your red paint is chipped at the back edge of the latching well because your plunger frame is striking and or riding against it.
Only fix is to remove and reseal the frame, unfortunately.
02-06-2008, 04:00 PM
#5
business idea
If shipping these hatches weren't so treacherous, someone could setup a pretty good business doing these on the side.
I used to have an '85 Z28. I wonder if the hatch on those ever had this problem or if it even had a frame...can't recall. Sort of seems like the glass didn't have a surrounding frame.
I used to have an '85 Z28. I wonder if the hatch on those ever had this problem or if it even had a frame...can't recall. Sort of seems like the glass didn't have a surrounding frame.
02-06-2008, 04:58 PM
#6
RL Community Team
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2nd gen RX-7s, which are widely regarded as the 944's Japanese cousin, had a hatch glass with no frame. The C6 corvette also has a frameless hatch. I believe this is a superior design.
The main problem is that the hatch struts connect to the glass, not the frame. They push the glass away from the frame. If we could devise a way to connect them to the frame instead, we'd be golden. When I do my hatch reseal job, I am not going to reconnect the hatch struts, ever. I'd rather deal with a stupid broomstick than a wet interior and that incessant whistling noise.
The main problem is that the hatch struts connect to the glass, not the frame. They push the glass away from the frame. If we could devise a way to connect them to the frame instead, we'd be golden. When I do my hatch reseal job, I am not going to reconnect the hatch struts, ever. I'd rather deal with a stupid broomstick than a wet interior and that incessant whistling noise.
02-06-2008, 09:38 PM
#7
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If shipping these hatches weren't so treacherous, someone could setup a pretty good business doing these on the side.
I used to have an '85 Z28. I wonder if the hatch on those ever had this problem or if it even had a frame...can't recall. Sort of seems like the glass didn't have a surrounding frame.
I used to have an '85 Z28. I wonder if the hatch on those ever had this problem or if it even had a frame...can't recall. Sort of seems like the glass didn't have a surrounding frame.
2nd gen RX-7s, which are widely regarded as the 944's Japanese cousin, had a hatch glass with no frame. The C6 corvette also has a frameless hatch. I believe this is a superior design.
The main problem is that the hatch struts connect to the glass, not the frame. They push the glass away from the frame. If we could devise a way to connect them to the frame instead, we'd be golden. When I do my hatch reseal job, I am not going to reconnect the hatch struts, ever. I'd rather deal with a stupid broomstick than a wet interior and that incessant whistling noise.
The main problem is that the hatch struts connect to the glass, not the frame. They push the glass away from the frame. If we could devise a way to connect them to the frame instead, we'd be golden. When I do my hatch reseal job, I am not going to reconnect the hatch struts, ever. I'd rather deal with a stupid broomstick than a wet interior and that incessant whistling noise.
You also seem like the very person to come up with a solution to this as well lol
I am just worried that the plunger is going to wear through the body and cause a HUGE headache... so I better get on this.
So, to add to my "to do" list: new clock screen, fix hatch opener thingy mabob... I'd love to have the electric work, but I'll settle for a readjust of the manual mechanism, and other various items.
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02-06-2008, 09:45 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
I resealed mine with a small bead of silicon seal around the outside five years ago, it's still holding fine. It wasn't too bad when I did it. but a little prevention goes a long way.
02-06-2008, 10:05 PM
#9
Racer
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I did a complete reseal on mine. Unless you have a spare week or two, and plenty of sanity to lose, I wouldn't recommend it.
However, I am extremely happy with the results. I added "fretting" all the way around the glass, to protect the new adhesive from UV degredation, and had the glass tinted as well.
That rubbing problem can be resolved by removing the hatch struts, and the
blocks that hold the pins...and readjust the hinges at the top of the frame. Each hinge has two triple square bolts securing it to the body, and they have plenty of adjustment. It helps to have an extra hand outside the car when adjusting it.
Contrary to the myths, the window frame doesn't grow, nor do the struts separate the glass. Putting good struts on the hatch only pronounces the separation that has already happened, or is certain to happen regardless. This happens when they become a pivot point in the middle of the frame, causing the frame to bend slightly when closing the hatch, due to a failed bond at the top of the glass. I spent considerable time visiting with glass professionals obtaining ideas on how to fix my hatch separation. Understandably. none of them would touch my window for any amount of money!
My hatch now opens, from inside the car, with only a touch of the switch...and I have witnesses! I must also add that it could have never been adjusted properly without the help of Sharky's Stainless Steel Hatch Pins! Those babies are the best return on investment I have ever experienced...they are an absolute must! Don't EVEN waste your time trying to free up your rusted pins...
944Online sells replacement nuts for those pins as well. You'll need them.
However, I am extremely happy with the results. I added "fretting" all the way around the glass, to protect the new adhesive from UV degredation, and had the glass tinted as well.
That rubbing problem can be resolved by removing the hatch struts, and the
blocks that hold the pins...and readjust the hinges at the top of the frame. Each hinge has two triple square bolts securing it to the body, and they have plenty of adjustment. It helps to have an extra hand outside the car when adjusting it.
Contrary to the myths, the window frame doesn't grow, nor do the struts separate the glass. Putting good struts on the hatch only pronounces the separation that has already happened, or is certain to happen regardless. This happens when they become a pivot point in the middle of the frame, causing the frame to bend slightly when closing the hatch, due to a failed bond at the top of the glass. I spent considerable time visiting with glass professionals obtaining ideas on how to fix my hatch separation. Understandably. none of them would touch my window for any amount of money!
My hatch now opens, from inside the car, with only a touch of the switch...and I have witnesses! I must also add that it could have never been adjusted properly without the help of Sharky's Stainless Steel Hatch Pins! Those babies are the best return on investment I have ever experienced...they are an absolute must! Don't EVEN waste your time trying to free up your rusted pins...
944Online sells replacement nuts for those pins as well. You'll need them.
02-06-2008, 10:06 PM
#10
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2004
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Stay away from new hatch shocks! They'll pull the glass away from the frame first time you shut the hatch on a hot day. Ask me how I know! I wished I stayed with my lump of broom handle prop!
Admire my duct tape across the top of the hatch to keep the water out! Anyone make duct tape marked "Porsche"?
I have a Mazda 1984 GSL-SE . It's nice having a sportscar with no issues, really
Mike
Admire my duct tape across the top of the hatch to keep the water out! Anyone make duct tape marked "Porsche"?
I have a Mazda 1984 GSL-SE . It's nice having a sportscar with no issues, really
Mike