WTB_ 968 hatch - dont need the wing or trim
09-26-2007, 11:24 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
WTB_ 968 hatch - dont need the wing or trim
my 968 hatch came with some awsome scratches in the middle of the glass. I didnt care because i thought that the wing would fit onto my original glass but nope i had to use the 968 hatch as well. Anyone have a nice 968 hatch w/o the wing and stuff for sale?
any way to buff out scratches in glass- not real bad but they are driving me nuts.
any way to buff out scratches in glass- not real bad but they are driving me nuts.
09-27-2007, 01:24 AM
#5
Official Rennlist
Borat Impersonator
Rennlist Member
Borat Impersonator
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n00b
if you can make your own 951 vented nose panel I'm sure you can transplant the wing
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/288108-968-spoiler-transplant-on-944-work-in-progress.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/233777-968-hoop-spoiler-conversion-parts-list-and-prices.html
if you can make your own 951 vented nose panel I'm sure you can transplant the winghttps://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/288108-968-spoiler-transplant-on-944-work-in-progress.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/233777-968-hoop-spoiler-conversion-parts-list-and-prices.html
09-27-2007, 09:01 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
i think im going to try buffing the glass first. Wonder if i could wetsand and buff it like paint?
i'll try it with an old side rear window first.
i'll try it with an old side rear window first.
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09-27-2007, 09:12 AM
#8
Yeah, buff it. Theres glass buffing/scratch removal pastes from i think Eastwood. I had to buff windshield wiper scratches outta the winshield of a Studebaker Lark and it turned out...well....like glass! Hahaha.
Just dont let it get hot under the pad. The glass may break. You may want to get a variable speed buffer from Makita or similar where you can keep the RPM down to around 1.5K....but I bet theres an article online or that comes with the glass compound that tells you the max rpm for the compund.
Just dont let it get hot under the pad. The glass may break. You may want to get a variable speed buffer from Makita or similar where you can keep the RPM down to around 1.5K....but I bet theres an article online or that comes with the glass compound that tells you the max rpm for the compund.
09-27-2007, 09:15 AM
#9
09-27-2007, 09:18 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
i have a variable speed buffer for doing paintjobs. Just bought all new pads and compounds-ready to buff my wing out. THink rubbing compound would work on glass?
09-27-2007, 09:51 AM
#11
Im not sure if plastic buffing compunds like perfect-it by 3M for instance would work. You can try it with low rpm and see if it works but im not sure it will.
"Cerium oxide is the polish of choice for glass. Before you can polish scratches out of glass, you must first determine how deep the scratches are. If you can feel a scratch as you run your fingernail across it, the scratch is too deep to be polished out with cerium oxide. You must first grind the scratch out.
The grit used to grind out the scratch will depend on the depth of the scratch. It is best to use the finest grit you can to grind out a scratch. I suggest starting with 2000 grit. If that is too slow, go to 1500 or 1200 grit and if it is still grinding too slowly, try 600 grit. However, after grinding with 600 grit, you will have to re-grind with 1200/1500 and then again with 2000 grit to remove scratches from the coarser grits. Only then, can the glass be polished with cerium oxide. NOTE: Grinding of glass can create an undesirable lens effect.
An easy way to grind out the scratches is to use silicon carbide sandpaper (the black sandpaper available at hardware stores or auto body shop supply houses) with water as a lubricant. After grinding, carefully clean off the area you ground with water and clean off your tools before going to the next finer grit. It's best to use an attachment on a drill, or an electric buffer.
Mix cerium oxide with water to create a slurry that's the same consistency as milk. Put the slurry on spinning buffing pad. Harder buffing pads made out of hard felt, or leather work best. The polishing action will be fastest when the cerium oxide is damp, but not dry, or runny wet. Fill a spray bottle with water and use it to keep the area you are polishing damp.
Glass is relatively easy to polish. Therefore, you don't need to use the more expensive 99.9% cerium. Instead, the less expensive 90% Optical grade will work fine. We have been told that 99.9% cerium works much faster than 90% on tempered glass."
"Cerium oxide is the polish of choice for glass. Before you can polish scratches out of glass, you must first determine how deep the scratches are. If you can feel a scratch as you run your fingernail across it, the scratch is too deep to be polished out with cerium oxide. You must first grind the scratch out.
The grit used to grind out the scratch will depend on the depth of the scratch. It is best to use the finest grit you can to grind out a scratch. I suggest starting with 2000 grit. If that is too slow, go to 1500 or 1200 grit and if it is still grinding too slowly, try 600 grit. However, after grinding with 600 grit, you will have to re-grind with 1200/1500 and then again with 2000 grit to remove scratches from the coarser grits. Only then, can the glass be polished with cerium oxide. NOTE: Grinding of glass can create an undesirable lens effect.
An easy way to grind out the scratches is to use silicon carbide sandpaper (the black sandpaper available at hardware stores or auto body shop supply houses) with water as a lubricant. After grinding, carefully clean off the area you ground with water and clean off your tools before going to the next finer grit. It's best to use an attachment on a drill, or an electric buffer.
Mix cerium oxide with water to create a slurry that's the same consistency as milk. Put the slurry on spinning buffing pad. Harder buffing pads made out of hard felt, or leather work best. The polishing action will be fastest when the cerium oxide is damp, but not dry, or runny wet. Fill a spray bottle with water and use it to keep the area you are polishing damp.
Glass is relatively easy to polish. Therefore, you don't need to use the more expensive 99.9% cerium. Instead, the less expensive 90% Optical grade will work fine. We have been told that 99.9% cerium works much faster than 90% on tempered glass."
09-27-2007, 10:13 AM
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
yeah the scratches are not felt by my fingernail- very light but visible at certain angles. Looks like someone went at it w/ a snow scraper. I'll try some 1000 grit and a buffer pad and see if that works. If not i'll get some cerium and try again.
