10 (or more) things to do to make your 944 much better
#46
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Originally Posted by boston951
One of the best non-performance upgrades available is the Saratoga top (if you can locate one). This will not be inexpensive due to the lack of production, but the glass top is nice to have in the Spring and Fall (too hot in the Summer sun). It really brightens the interior and allows for a more open feel even with the sunroof in place.
There are some great suggestions in this thread. Please keep going![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
There are some great suggestions in this thread. Please keep going
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Are they out of production or something?
#47
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How does height adjustment differ from the reindexing? I'm looking at the Clarks page as we speak but it seems like if the ride height is different, particularly left-to-right (as is the case w/ my car), why not reindex?
It seems quite labor-intensive to adjust ride height anyway, so why not index? And how do I know if reindexing is necessary in the first place?
It seems quite labor-intensive to adjust ride height anyway, so why not index? And how do I know if reindexing is necessary in the first place?
#48
Burning Brakes
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They were produced by a company in California for Porsche I believe. Production was very limited making all the ones in existence unreasonably expensive and a significant addition in value to the car.
Someone correct me if my history is wrong.
Someone correct me if my history is wrong.
#49
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Originally Posted by Mamooguy
How hard is it to swap those puppies out?
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#50
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1. 02 sensor. The "universal" bosch one from paragon worked great from me if you don't mind splicing. Since it is wayyy cheaper, it is definitely worth the splicing.
2. AFM cleaning. This is way easier than I thought it would be. Only thing you have to remove is that black plate. Just be careful and don't break anything.
3. An alignment at a real alignment shop. I had right rear sagging (it had been messed with at some point in time) that was fixed, along with an overall terrible toe situation all around, by the Digital Chassis. I was appalled at the spec sheet he gave me at what my car used to be set up at.
4. +1 on the tranny fluid swap. I've done mine about 3 times. Just be sure to get a pump and be really careful with that drain / fill plug.
5. +1 on the clay bar. Car is small enough that it doesn't take long, and it makes a noticeable tactile / visual difference
6. AGLA. Just buy everything they stock that you can get for your car.
7. +1 on the bigger tires. I just went from 215/60/15 on 15x7" to 225/50/16 and 245/45/16 on 16x7/8" and it is an amazing difference.
8. Clean your engine bay and fix your vacuum lines.
9. Rebuild your PS pump. Much easier than it sounds. Replace the belt with a modern one while you're in there.
10. Use your non-functional AC button to force your engine cooling fans to come on. Great for autocross or stop/go traffic if you are having cooling issues.
2. AFM cleaning. This is way easier than I thought it would be. Only thing you have to remove is that black plate. Just be careful and don't break anything.
3. An alignment at a real alignment shop. I had right rear sagging (it had been messed with at some point in time) that was fixed, along with an overall terrible toe situation all around, by the Digital Chassis. I was appalled at the spec sheet he gave me at what my car used to be set up at.
4. +1 on the tranny fluid swap. I've done mine about 3 times. Just be sure to get a pump and be really careful with that drain / fill plug.
5. +1 on the clay bar. Car is small enough that it doesn't take long, and it makes a noticeable tactile / visual difference
6. AGLA. Just buy everything they stock that you can get for your car.
7. +1 on the bigger tires. I just went from 215/60/15 on 15x7" to 225/50/16 and 245/45/16 on 16x7/8" and it is an amazing difference.
8. Clean your engine bay and fix your vacuum lines.
9. Rebuild your PS pump. Much easier than it sounds. Replace the belt with a modern one while you're in there.
10. Use your non-functional AC button to force your engine cooling fans to come on. Great for autocross or stop/go traffic if you are having cooling issues.
#51
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Originally Posted by ausgeflippt951
It seems quite labor-intensive to adjust ride height anyway, so why not index? And how do I know if reindexing is necessary in the first place?
#52
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Originally Posted by Luis de Prat
I've always understood it the other way around: ride height adjustment via the eccentric spares you the major PITA of reindexing the torsion bars. YMMV.
You could very well be correct; I've absolutely no knowledge/first-hand experience in readjusting the rear. It is now on my To-Do list so I'm interested in the correct way to fix my improper left-to-right height.
I plan to measure front height and then rear left and rear right and adjust accordingly. What is the best way to adjust?
Help!
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#53
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YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary, it's a joking refrence to American car commercials, it means "It might not work the same for for you" essentially.
I agree though, reindexing torsion bars is pretty serious. The trick with tilting the rear suspension and doing one side at a time helps, and the excel sheet to hopefully get the bar set right on the first try will also help but it's still pretty intense. On the other hand, if you have 24 (maybe two) and 36mm combination wrenches, an impact gun (optional I suppose) a breaker bar and the relevant sockets it's not too hard to do the ride height adjustment. The second time it's actually easy. Doing a rear shock replacement is easy when you are doing this adjustment too.
I agree though, reindexing torsion bars is pretty serious. The trick with tilting the rear suspension and doing one side at a time helps, and the excel sheet to hopefully get the bar set right on the first try will also help but it's still pretty intense. On the other hand, if you have 24 (maybe two) and 36mm combination wrenches, an impact gun (optional I suppose) a breaker bar and the relevant sockets it's not too hard to do the ride height adjustment. The second time it's actually easy. Doing a rear shock replacement is easy when you are doing this adjustment too.
#54
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i just put in new torsion bars (larger diameter from 23.5 to 26mm) - major pain but thanks to the spreadsheet available here or Pelican i got the indexing close the first time. Definitely do not do the reindexing if you have no major sagging or change of components. The height adjuster has more than enough range to get your car level.
more important than level, though, is balanced. it's important that the weight on each wheel is close to the same when static. if you're in Tucson, take it to Alignment and Brake (Mike) near speedway and wilmot, they'll fix you up. you can make yourself a big mess if you play with adjustments without the right tools......
more important than level, though, is balanced. it's important that the weight on each wheel is close to the same when static. if you're in Tucson, take it to Alignment and Brake (Mike) near speedway and wilmot, they'll fix you up. you can make yourself a big mess if you play with adjustments without the right tools......
#55
Cast Iron Man
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A sloppy shifter has plagued just about every 944 I've seen. You can replace the shift lever but here is a link to a mod that will fix it tight and prevent wear.
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
#56
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Originally Posted by Z-man
Um no. To make the car handle better, you want to lower the center of gravity, NOT raise it. If you are bottoming out with a light load in your car, you need to replace your worn-out shocks, not raise the rear height of your car.
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#57
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Originally Posted by JayP
A driver's door handle that works.
#58
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Originally Posted by linust
Generally, yes...but that's if you raise/lower all four corners of the car at once. If you raise just the rear (or lower only the front) chances are good you will lower understeer/increase oversteer. Someone can probably cite a good reference on this, but BTDT while crewing once (hey, the driver asked for less push...we delivered
)
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But you are correct -- like any suspension change, the front and rear have to be in harmony with each other -- otherwise you can have an ill handling car.
-Z-man.
#59
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posted by pjburges
They were produced by a company in California for Porsche I believe. Production was very limited making all the ones in existence unreasonably expensive and a significant addition in value to the car.
Someone correct me if my history is wrong.
They were produced by a company in California for Porsche I believe. Production was very limited making all the ones in existence unreasonably expensive and a significant addition in value to the car.
Someone correct me if my history is wrong.
It really is an awesome upgrade if you can find one.
#60
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