Mamooguy

Hey, wow, that's awesome! I didn't know such a thing existed.

Are they out of production or something?

ausgeflippt951

How does height adjustment differ from the reindexing? I'm looking at the Clarks page as we speak but it seems like if the ride height is different, particularly left-to-right (as is the case w/ my car), why not reindex?

It seems quite labor-intensive to adjust ride height anyway, so why not index? And how do I know if reindexing is necessary in the first place?

pjburges

They were produced by a company in California for Porsche I believe. Production was very limited making all the ones in existence unreasonably expensive and a significant addition in value to the car.

Someone correct me if my history is wrong.

Pcar944

There's been threads on motor mount replacement here. Not easy. It does make a huge improvement in engine smooth running though. I'm an apartment dweller so the shop has done mine!

knfeparty

1. 02 sensor. The "universal" bosch one from paragon worked great from me if you don't mind splicing. Since it is wayyy cheaper, it is definitely worth the splicing.

2. AFM cleaning. This is way easier than I thought it would be. Only thing you have to remove is that black plate. Just be careful and don't break anything.

3. An alignment at a real alignment shop. I had right rear sagging (it had been messed with at some point in time) that was fixed, along with an overall terrible toe situation all around, by the Digital Chassis. I was appalled at the spec sheet he gave me at what my car used to be set up at.

4. +1 on the tranny fluid swap. I've done mine about 3 times. Just be sure to get a pump and be really careful with that drain / fill plug.

5. +1 on the clay bar. Car is small enough that it doesn't take long, and it makes a noticeable tactile / visual difference

6. AGLA. Just buy everything they stock that you can get for your car.

7. +1 on the bigger tires. I just went from 215/60/15 on 15x7" to 225/50/16 and 245/45/16 on 16x7/8" and it is an amazing difference.

8. Clean your engine bay and fix your vacuum lines.

9. Rebuild your PS pump. Much easier than it sounds. Replace the belt with a modern one while you're in there.

10. Use your non-functional AC button to force your engine cooling fans to come on. Great for autocross or stop/go traffic if you are having cooling issues.

Luis de Prat

I've always understood it the other way around: ride height adjustment via the eccentric spares you the major PITA of reindexing the torsion bars. YMMV.

ausgeflippt951

What does YMMV mean?

You could very well be correct; I've absolutely no knowledge/first-hand experience in readjusting the rear. It is now on my To-Do list so I'm interested in the correct way to fix my improper left-to-right height.

I plan to measure front height and then rear left and rear right and adjust accordingly. What is the best way to adjust?

Help!

Jfrahm

YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary, it's a joking refrence to American car commercials, it means "It might not work the same for for you" essentially.

I agree though, reindexing torsion bars is pretty serious. The trick with tilting the rear suspension and doing one side at a time helps, and the excel sheet to hopefully get the bar set right on the first try will also help but it's still pretty intense. On the other hand, if you have 24 (maybe two) and 36mm combination wrenches, an impact gun (optional I suppose) a breaker bar and the relevant sockets it's not too hard to do the ride height adjustment. The second time it's actually easy. Doing a rear shock replacement is easy when you are doing this adjustment too.

heavy fuel

i just put in new torsion bars (larger diameter from 23.5 to 26mm) - major pain but thanks to the spreadsheet available here or Pelican i got the indexing close the first time. Definitely do not do the reindexing if you have no major sagging or change of components. The height adjuster has more than enough range to get your car level.

more important than level, though, is balanced. it's important that the weight on each wheel is close to the same when static. if you're in Tucson, take it to Alignment and Brake (Mike) near speedway and wilmot, they'll fix you up. you can make yourself a big mess if you play with adjustments without the right tools......

SD Porsche Fan

A sloppy shifter has plagued just about every 944 I've seen. You can replace the shift lever but here is a link to a mod that will fix it tight and prevent wear.

http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm

linust

Generally, yes...but that's if you raise/lower all four corners of the car at once. If you raise just the rear (or lower only the front) chances are good you will lower understeer/increase oversteer. Someone can probably cite a good reference on this, but BTDT while crewing once (hey, the driver asked for less push...we delivered )

BADpolizei

Ha, Myn works if you push on the door, pull the handle then pull the door open. I would like to fix that and you cant open the pass. door from the outside at all. But I never drive anyone anyway.

Z-man

Well, one may argue that a car with less understeer handles better, but there are limits -- too much oversteer can be a handful. (Just ask any 911 owner. . . )

But you are correct -- like any suspension change, the front and rear have to be in harmony with each other -- otherwise you can have an ill handling car.
-Z-man.

boston951

Yup, no longer produced (not for a long time) and very hard to get a hold off. I was lucky to find one locally through Craigslist (I think). They can be had for $500-$600 if you luck out. I have also seen them go for near $1K on eBay.
It really is an awesome upgrade if you can find one.

Mamooguy

Some dude posted some photos of his Saratoga top

O how I'd love to have one!