10 (or more) things to do to make your 944 much better
#17
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Originally Posted by Jfrahm
Good suggestion. These get dirty and you run rich. I'm using a Bosch O2 sensor for a 1990 For Taurus 3.0, $40. I just spliced and shrinkwrapped the wires.
-Joel.
-Joel.
Hmm I like the price of that. O2 sensors are not all that complicated, correct? So the only consideration really is whether they'll fit in the preexisting O2 bung?
Do you have an N/A or 951? Can I use the taurus unit on my 951?
#19
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1.Some fresh oil and a filter + a motor flush before the change- a bypass filter is nice too, and even better having a bypass filter with the 951 oil cooler!
2.Making sure you're CV joints are good
3.Fresh redline or SWEPCO oil in the gearbox makes a world of difference shifting.
4.Adjust the shift linkage and replace all the bushings in the linkage to make it tight again.
5.Rebuild your clock. Again.
6.Get a power steering and rack rebuild kit if yours is leaking, or switch to the manual rack if its your taste.
7.Get an alignment - after you replace all the bushings in the front end that rotted out because of your power steering leak.
8.Flush your coolant system and put some fresh stuff in.
9.This might sound like it wouldnt work but try "Diesel Kleene with a cetane boost" in the injection system - its the best fuel cleaner I have ever used in gas or diesel cars.
10.Get rid of your Platinum plugs and buy all the Bosch Supers in the store if you are in Texas as they are phasing them out here.
11.Clean all the grounds in the car, and run independent grounds from the two front chassis grounds near the headlights back to the battery - this will brighten up your turn signals, foglights, and headlights quite a bit.
12.Break down and fix your odometer, and while you are there install some LED backights or replace your old bulbs with new.
13.If the car always has a slight odor of gas - replace the sending unit seal - theyve gone bad on most cars now.
14. FULLY Rebuild all your brake calipers and put in fresh fluid - re-machine or get new rotors, some nice new pads...will make your brakes feel COMPLETELY different.
I could think of more but the post might get too long! - OH! Verify all your vaccuum connections and make sure they're good.
2.Making sure you're CV joints are good
3.Fresh redline or SWEPCO oil in the gearbox makes a world of difference shifting.
4.Adjust the shift linkage and replace all the bushings in the linkage to make it tight again.
5.Rebuild your clock. Again.
6.Get a power steering and rack rebuild kit if yours is leaking, or switch to the manual rack if its your taste.
7.Get an alignment - after you replace all the bushings in the front end that rotted out because of your power steering leak.
8.Flush your coolant system and put some fresh stuff in.
9.This might sound like it wouldnt work but try "Diesel Kleene with a cetane boost" in the injection system - its the best fuel cleaner I have ever used in gas or diesel cars.
10.Get rid of your Platinum plugs and buy all the Bosch Supers in the store if you are in Texas as they are phasing them out here.
11.Clean all the grounds in the car, and run independent grounds from the two front chassis grounds near the headlights back to the battery - this will brighten up your turn signals, foglights, and headlights quite a bit.
12.Break down and fix your odometer, and while you are there install some LED backights or replace your old bulbs with new.
13.If the car always has a slight odor of gas - replace the sending unit seal - theyve gone bad on most cars now.
14. FULLY Rebuild all your brake calipers and put in fresh fluid - re-machine or get new rotors, some nice new pads...will make your brakes feel COMPLETELY different.
I could think of more but the post might get too long! - OH! Verify all your vaccuum connections and make sure they're good.
#20
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Originally Posted by ausgeflippt951
Hmm I like the price of that. O2 sensors are not all that complicated, correct? So the only consideration really is whether they'll fit in the preexisting O2 bung?
Do you have an N/A or 951? Can I use the taurus unit on my 951?
Do you have an N/A or 951? Can I use the taurus unit on my 951?
-Joel.
#21
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Originally Posted by pjburges
1.Some fresh oil and a filter + a motor flush before the change- a bypass filter is nice too, and even better having a bypass filter with the 951 oil cooler!
2.Making sure you're CV joints are good
3.Fresh redline or SWEPCO oil in the gearbox makes a world of difference shifting.
4.Adjust the shift linkage and replace all the bushings in the linkage to make it tight again.
5.Rebuild your clock. Again.
6.Get a power steering and rack rebuild kit if yours is leaking, or switch to the manual rack if its your taste.
7.Get an alignment - after you replace all the bushings in the front end that rotted out because of your power steering leak.
8.Flush your coolant system and put some fresh stuff in.
9.This might sound like it wouldnt work but try "Diesel Kleene with a cetane boost" in the injection system - its the best fuel cleaner I have ever used in gas or diesel cars.
10.Get rid of your Platinum plugs and buy all the Bosch Supers in the store if you are in Texas as they are phasing them out here.
11.Clean all the grounds in the car, and run independent grounds from the two front chassis grounds near the headlights back to the battery - this will brighten up your turn signals, foglights, and headlights quite a bit.
12.Break down and fix your odometer, and while you are there install some LED backights or replace your old bulbs with new.
13.If the car always has a slight odor of gas - replace the sending unit seal - theyve gone bad on most cars now.
14. FULLY Rebuild all your brake calipers and put in fresh fluid - re-machine or get new rotors, some nice new pads...will make your brakes feel COMPLETELY different.
I could think of more but the post might get too long! - OH! Verify all your vaccuum connections and make sure they're good.
2.Making sure you're CV joints are good
3.Fresh redline or SWEPCO oil in the gearbox makes a world of difference shifting.
4.Adjust the shift linkage and replace all the bushings in the linkage to make it tight again.
5.Rebuild your clock. Again.
6.Get a power steering and rack rebuild kit if yours is leaking, or switch to the manual rack if its your taste.
7.Get an alignment - after you replace all the bushings in the front end that rotted out because of your power steering leak.
8.Flush your coolant system and put some fresh stuff in.
9.This might sound like it wouldnt work but try "Diesel Kleene with a cetane boost" in the injection system - its the best fuel cleaner I have ever used in gas or diesel cars.
10.Get rid of your Platinum plugs and buy all the Bosch Supers in the store if you are in Texas as they are phasing them out here.
11.Clean all the grounds in the car, and run independent grounds from the two front chassis grounds near the headlights back to the battery - this will brighten up your turn signals, foglights, and headlights quite a bit.
12.Break down and fix your odometer, and while you are there install some LED backights or replace your old bulbs with new.
13.If the car always has a slight odor of gas - replace the sending unit seal - theyve gone bad on most cars now.
14. FULLY Rebuild all your brake calipers and put in fresh fluid - re-machine or get new rotors, some nice new pads...will make your brakes feel COMPLETELY different.
I could think of more but the post might get too long! - OH! Verify all your vaccuum connections and make sure they're good.
As for the shifter bushing replacement, good suggestion. Mine is getting a bit loose. I will look for a procedure to sort that out.
Another one: The hatch lock surround is a cheap part and is pretty easy to replace. If yours is cracked, might as well replace it. I did mine last year, should have done it years ago.
-Joel.
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Originally Posted by pjburges
11.Clean all the grounds in the car, and run independent grounds from the two front chassis grounds near the headlights back to the battery - this will brighten up your turn signals, foglights, and headlights quite a bit.
Originally Posted by pjburges
OH! Verify all your vaccuum connections and make sure they're good.
Another one I thought of: check and condition the weatherstripping, especially around the rear hatch.
It's also worth considering doing a bit of deleting if stuff not just for weight savings but also if it just plain doesn't work (A/C system, rear wiper, stuff like that).
#23
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not sure what the difference is between fixing something up and modding it- unless you mean fixing stuff thats broke- that should be common sense
my a/c works- threw some seals and 134a w/ oil in there and been good three months or so.
+1 for adding tow hooks- i put some rears on the last two cars- awsome for towing on a trailer!
my a/c works- threw some seals and 134a w/ oil in there and been good three months or so.
+1 for adding tow hooks- i put some rears on the last two cars- awsome for towing on a trailer!
#24
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Originally Posted by pjburges
13.If the car always has a slight odor of gas - replace the sending unit seal - theyve gone bad on most cars now.
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That reminds me of something else: engine seals! It may not be necessary to rebuild the entire engine, but it's a good thing to keep in the back of your mind whenever you do have to do some work on the car ... seals are a very good "while I'm in there" sort of thing.
Also coolant hoses. Replacing them all is a big job, but it's worth considering. Not to mention transmission seals.
And filters ... transmission fluid filter, fuel filter, oil filter, the works.
Also coolant hoses. Replacing them all is a big job, but it's worth considering. Not to mention transmission seals.
And filters ... transmission fluid filter, fuel filter, oil filter, the works.
#26
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Originally Posted by Jfrahm
Again, please keep the mods out of this thread, thanks. Smooshed bumpers, V8 swaps and shrapnel ***** are not for everyone.
-Joel.
-Joel.
- licence plate cover
- steering wheel cover
- Pedal covers
These are all "mods" if mods are defined as non-original.
Rear ride height: This is not too hard if you have the right tools, and the right tools are not that expensive. the car looks a lot better and will handle better if the rear is not dragging. I finally got around to doing mine after I was out for a day with a 110lb Norwegian girl in the back 'seat' and the right rear was really low, thumping a bit even. With my $100 compressor and $75 monster impact gun, this is not that hard. I used a (cheap) 36mm bicycle wrench to rotate the adjuster, You also need a sturdy 24mm wrench. A but adjustable wrench does not really fit in there, at least get a bike wrench to do this. I needed to use the jack method to bust the bolts loose for the first time. After that, a second adjustment just takes 30 min. You can have an alignment shop do this also.
Do not loosen the rear (eccentric) too much. Bust the rear (eccentric) loose first, then snug it up good again, then bust the front. That way if the adjuster comes too loose the arm will not move before you can snug it up again. Mark the relationship between the blade and arm before loosening anything.
Do not loosen the rear (eccentric) too much. Bust the rear (eccentric) loose first, then snug it up good again, then bust the front. That way if the adjuster comes too loose the arm will not move before you can snug it up again. Mark the relationship between the blade and arm before loosening anything.
That said, I thought this thread was about improving your 944 in terms of performance, and not just esthetics.
If I may post some things to make your 944 perform much better (as the risk of postig some "mods" ) may I offer:
1. Replace rear swaybar with a "+1" unit. (Example: keep from sway stock, and get an M030 19mm rear swaybar). Helps dial out understeer.
2. Use wider tires. My car came stock with the following setup:
Front: 205-55/16 tires on 7Jx16 wheels
ReaR: 225-50/16 tires on 8Jx16 wheels.
Upgrading to the following is better:
Front: 225-50/16 on 7Jx16
Rear: 245-45/16 on 8Jx16.
Better yet:
Front and rear: 245-45/16 on 8Jx16 wheels.
3. Drop the rear of the car to european spec. (See clark's garage for the procedure).
4. Lower the ride height of the front. NOTE: if you still have a stock suspension, you can only lower the car a little (sorry, I don't know the exact specs). Otherwise, you can stress the A-arm (due incorrect ball joint geometery), and possibly cause catastrophic ball-joint failure.
5. Replace worn out swaybar and suspension bushings with new rubber or delrin bushings.
6. Replace worn stock caster blocks with 968 units. (Acutally, if you look it up in PET, Porsche only lists the 968 unit as the replacement for worn caster blocks on the 944 cars.)
7. For 944 n/a's, as stated above, the throttle cam upgrade makes the throttle response more snappy.
8. For 944S2's and 944 Turbos, you can bypass the coolant flow through the throttle body if you don't drive the car in frigid climates. (The purpose of the coolant going through the throttle body was to prevent sticking TB's due to icing.) This means your intake air temp will probably be 0.005 degrees less. Yeah, it is only a marginal difference, but it can add up to a 0.0002 hp increase.
9. Lighten the car. Some things that can be done simply:
- remove the rear seatback. (two bolts and it is gone) - saves about 20 lbs.
- remove the A/C unit (need A/C delete bracket) - saves 40lbs.
- remove power seats (they are quite heavy)
- use a smaller, lighter battery
10. Upgrade the brake lines to stainless steel units -- they won't flex as much as the rubber units. Just be sure to replace these lines more often, as you can't visually inspect the inner rubber tube.
-Z-man.
#28
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Originally Posted by Z-man
Not to nit-pick, but your own post is in violation of your rules:
- licence plate cover
- steering wheel cover
- Pedal covers
These are all "mods" if mods are defined as non-original.
- licence plate cover
- steering wheel cover
- Pedal covers
These are all "mods" if mods are defined as non-original.
With exception of the license plate cover which primarily serves to "preserve" not modify.
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#29
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Originally Posted by F18Rep
"Rebuild your clock. Again."
OK, I give up, how do ya do that? I know how to replace one but rebuilding is new to me...bruce
OK, I give up, how do ya do that? I know how to replace one but rebuilding is new to me...bruce
#30
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Originally Posted by xsboost90
not sure what the difference is between fixing something up and modding it- unless you mean fixing stuff thats broke- that should be common sense
Fixing something up does not require the part to be broken, there are lots of things to clean, refinish, adjust, etc. Most of the things on the list so far are for running/driving cars. Most 924/944 cars I see in the wild are in need of lots of TLC like this, even the one in my garage could stand some.
My vision for this thread was cheap/sensible/reasonably easy repairs and improvements one could do on a Sunday afternoon to a running/driving car. Something to do instead of falling asleep watching baseball.
-Joel.