Z-man

Exactly my point: one person's opinion about what a modificaiton is is another's opinion on what a restoration is.

When it comes to doing anything with a car, it is quite subjective. In my case, the focus is on improving the handling of my car, since 90% of my driving is done on a racetrack. My paint is faded and chipped, my interior doesn't really match, and I don't have center caps on my wheels that would need painting! But for Joel, painted wheel caps are important.

Different strokes for different folks...
-Z

Mamooguy

Less arguing, more advising!

Luis de Prat

That was a bit off, Zoltan.

The point here is obviously to keep the car in good running order and state of P R E S E R V A T I O N.

If you want to go out on a limb and make this a "track car" discussion, I think you need to start your own thread.

pjburges

Replacing the seal on the sending unit is quite simple. Pull up the rear hatch carpet. There should be a black circular cover on the gas-cap side of the car. Peel that up. There is the sending unit! I believe there is 6-8 allen bolts holding pressure on the seal, and if you talk to the dealership - they should be able to figure out what seal you need to replace it. Im sure its not terribly expensive. The gas-cap side roof pillar has a cover over it and there are some hoses that guide fuel down to the tank there. You COULD pull the cover off and make sure that the fill hose and vent hoses arent leaking but its sealed with horribly messy black rubber caulk crap and its difficult to reseal well, so Id just do the sending unit first.

As for the clock - cmon guys! If you can rebuild an engine or replace a clutch - you can rebuild your little clock. The reason they fail most of the time is due to lots of dust and debris in a hot environment getting into the little gears. You have to clean it all out with something like MAF spray or electrical cleaner. Dont use carb spray because it will melt the plastic.

I dont have pictures or anything but basically remove the bezel and get access to the gears. Get everything spotlessly clean, and then oil with an extremely thin oil. Give the clock 12V and watch it to see if you can see the little magnet flipping every second. If the magnet isnt flipping you could still have crap in the gears making it too hard for the tiny little thing to spin, or you could be getting no power to the magnet.

If you arent getting power to the magnet check the capicator and the resistor with a voltmeter, and replace and resolder if necissary. Obvious signs of failure would be browning of the little PCB that holds all the electronics for the clock. Im sure there are other little electronic pieces in there worth checking that I cant remember off the top of my head...

Has nobody done a write-up on that? Maybe ill have to think about writing an all out step by step procedure. It's all pretty obvious once you have the bezel off and you are looking at it. Ill just say that what "looks" clean - really might not be. The magnet is very weak and sensitive.

Z-man

Ok - ok.... I'll stop.

Sorry about the dig, Joel... (But raising your rear ride height is only masking your worn-shocks problem)

-Z-man.

Pcar944

Hey I got one that hasnt been mentioned:

Motor Mounts

makes your engine silky smooooth again.

Jfrahm

My shocks are newish and in great shape, I think it's tired torsion bars that cause rear sag no? I thought only high pressure gas shocks sag badly when they are done. 944 shocks are low pressure gas IIRC.

-Joel.

Z-man

You may need to re-index the torsion bars. But they typically don't get "out of index" through normal driving... an alignment shop can help diagnose your sagging issues...

-Z

Mamooguy

How about the springs? Don't forget the springs.

Mamooguy

How hard is it to swap those puppies out?

ausgeflippt951

It's on my To-Do list and from what I've read it's a royal PITA. However, everyone who's done it has said it's worth every minute of painstaking installation.

Mamooguy

Well then I won't put it on my list. I've got enough PITAs in the queue.

MyBlackCar

Replace the fuel lines - I took off the crimps where it connects between the metal lines and fuel rail. I used standard injection fuel lines with insulation and t-bolt clamps. Definitely cheaper and a necessary replacement if the hose has never been replaced since the dawn of time.

Headlight / Foglight laminx - No busted lights from road debris.

boston951

One of the best non-performance upgrades available is the Saratoga top (if you can locate one). This will not be inexpensive due to the lack of production, but the glass top is nice to have in the Spring and Fall (too hot in the Summer sun). It really brightens the interior and allows for a more open feel even with the sunroof in place.

There are some great suggestions in this thread. Please keep going

Jfrahm

They do not get out of index but time and use causes them to sag.

I am pretty much maxed on the right rear ride height but I am happy with where it is. Reindexing or outright replacement of the torsion bars will be next when/if it sags more. Springs and torsion bars soften and sag over time/use and do need to be replaced eventually, however I think that sort of thing is beyond the scope of this thread. Maybe rear ride height is also. I can do it in 30 minutes a side but I have some big scary tools. I'd be willing to bet that most saggy-assed 944s have some adjustment left in the rear ride height and could benefit from an adjusment though. At least then you'd know if you needed to reindex.

-Joel.