torquing crank bolt
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Any tips for tihs? I can't get a good reading on torque (I torqued the hell out of it with a 4 foot breaker bar though) because the fan assembly gets in the way of the gauge.. I really don't want this bolt to back out on me.
#2
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I don't have an answer to your question but I can warn you to make sure your power steering pulley is lined up straight. If it is not, your front seal will not seal and you get to tear everything back apart to replace it. Ask me how I know.
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#3
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I used a 15/16 deep socket (24mm is the best fit) with a Craftsman torque wrench rated up to 150 ft-lbs. I torqued until it clicked on 150 and gave it a extra nudge with a breaker bar.
Taking the fans out is pretty easy, especially if its a non turbo (a bit harder with the oil lines on the 951). 6 bolts.
Taking the fans out is pretty easy, especially if its a non turbo (a bit harder with the oil lines on the 951). 6 bolts.
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The easiest way I've found without a flywheel lock. Put car in 5th with a block about foot behind the wheel for safety. Push backward on the car hold the wrench still doesn't take much to get 170. To break it loose pull coil wire put breaker bar so its against the ground and bump the starter works every time.
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Originally Posted by azbanks
I don't have an answer to your question but I can warn you to make sure your power steering pulley is lined up straight. If it is not, your front seal will not seal and you get to tear everything back apart to replace it. Ask me how I know. ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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#7
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Finger tighten the bolt until the pulley won't move. Loosen the bolt just enough so the pulley will wiggle a bit. From this point it is all by feel. You'll be able to tell easily if it is in the right place. I did not realize that the pulley could be out of alignment so I just used a wrench without lining it up first. The pulley wobbled when I started the car, the front seal didn't, (15W50 niagra falls) and I had to tear it all back apart. 170 ft/lbs bent the edge of the pulley as well so it had to be replaced.
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#8
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you have plenty of access to the crank bolt from the bottom of the car. Jack the car up and get to it from there.
You will need a flywheel lock b/c you'll get some torsional flexing when you try to torque it all the way down, but throwing the car in-gear will allow you to get a ballpark estimate.
I just performed this procedure myself not too long ago.
You will need a flywheel lock b/c you'll get some torsional flexing when you try to torque it all the way down, but throwing the car in-gear will allow you to get a ballpark estimate.
I just performed this procedure myself not too long ago.
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With the right deep socket, you can torque it without removing fans or anything else -- with flywheel lock in place of course. Clique style torque wrench avoids need for seeing the gauge. 15/16 or 24mm socket works fine (if you compare the two at Sears, they are identical from what I can tell).
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yes, but the problem is, there is not enough clearance for the gauge. It scrapes along the radiator support and thus gets a false reading. I will try it from underneath in a little bit when I go back out.