tb/wp replacement without flywheel lock?
#1
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Now, I have a flywheel lock I can use, but unless I'm doing something wrong its being way to much work to get the lock in place. It goes in the starter hole, correct? If so, I'm unable to get the starter out because of the heatshield, and I'm unable to get the heatsheild out because of the crossover pipe, and I'm unable to get the crossover out because of the heatshield on the brake master cylinder as well as the bolts on the turbo being horribly rusted out. (damn 20yr old parts...)
I was looking at the haynes manual at first to figure out how to do this because it has pictures, but I quickly realized the car they were working on didn't have power steering so they were able to immediately pull the balance shaft pulley off and didn't have to deal with the power steering belt pulley.
Anyway, any suggestions as to how the hell you get the crossover out or the bolt holding on the crankshaft pulleys out (while not using the flywheel lock) would be much appreciated!!
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Lol, the starter heat shield holes are slotted on the side, so you only have to back out the bolts a few turns and it will pull off (the ones that hit the crossover pipe. Then pull the starter, put in the flywheel lock, and loosen the bolt.
You will need to remove the balance shaft sprokets which requires a special spanner tool as well.
You will need to remove the balance shaft sprokets which requires a special spanner tool as well.
#4
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I normally just pop the car into a low gear (1st or reverse) put a block behind and in front of the tires and pop the crank bolt with a breaker bar. I have a flywheel lock but I am way too lazy to use it and the method I stated works perfectly fine if your clutch is good.
#5
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Originally Posted by PorscheDoc
Lol, the starter heat shield holes are slotted on the side, so you only have to back out the bolts a few turns and it will pull off (the ones that hit the crossover pipe. Then pull the starter, put in the flywheel lock, and loosen the bolt.
#6
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Does the heat shield around the brake master cylinder have the slotted holes as well? If so I must have been blinded by being so pissed off about it... lol.
Anyway, thanks for the info. I've got the car completely up on blocks, so the in-gear think won't work for me, so I'll try again at getting the starter off tomorrow. I have one of the spanner tools so I haven't had any problems with the rest of the pulleys.
Any hints for getting the crossover off? I was somewhat planning on pulling it anyway to either get it ceramic coated or wrap it, but I need to get it off before I figure that out.
Anyway, thanks for the info. I've got the car completely up on blocks, so the in-gear think won't work for me, so I'll try again at getting the starter off tomorrow. I have one of the spanner tools so I haven't had any problems with the rest of the pulleys.
Any hints for getting the crossover off? I was somewhat planning on pulling it anyway to either get it ceramic coated or wrap it, but I need to get it off before I figure that out.
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If you really want to go through the trouble of coating the crossover: To pull the crossover pipe you don't have to pull the brake booster heat shield, but that does make it easier. That shield is held on by 4 small nuts or bolts (10mm wrench). The bottom bolt that is backwards on the crossover pipe will give you the most trouble, but a curved 15mm wrench is perfect for it, and will give you pretty good turning room.
Going back together, just make sure you start all the bolts, but leave them very loose until all bolts are in their respective holes, then tighten down from there.
Going back together, just make sure you start all the bolts, but leave them very loose until all bolts are in their respective holes, then tighten down from there.
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#8
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I did the 968 belt job without the flywheel lock. I had my bro work the 24mm bolt from the front, while I was under the car jamming a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth, keeping it from turning.
Just buy the tool or borrow it from someone. It's really easy to use.
Just buy the tool or borrow it from someone. It's really easy to use.
#9
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Ok, I got the flywheel lock in, but how the hell do you get the 24mm bolt out? It isn't a reverse thread bolt, is it?
I've been using a prybar and a sledge and its not coming lose, and I've heated the whole bolt/pulley setup twice now (300F the first time, 400F the second) and that hasn't helped at all either. Is there something stupid I'm missing?
Pictures - the belt gaurd blocking access to the waterpump, the pulleys holding on the belt gaurd, the stupid bolt inside the power steering pulley.
I've been using a prybar and a sledge and its not coming lose, and I've heated the whole bolt/pulley setup twice now (300F the first time, 400F the second) and that hasn't helped at all either. Is there something stupid I'm missing?
Pictures - the belt gaurd blocking access to the waterpump, the pulleys holding on the belt gaurd, the stupid bolt inside the power steering pulley.
#10
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That bolt is super tight. 24mm deep socket and alot of leverage is all you need. Get a 6pt, the 12pt will probably slip. Get a long pipe and slip it over the breaker bar. Wear eye protection incase the breaker bar breaks (seriously).
When i took mine off it felt like i was shifting the entire motor on the mounts. I was able to do it with a 18 inch breaker bar.. a friends car required 24inch breaker bar extended another 6 inches with a pipe on the end.
Seriously, wear eye protection and heavy gloves when you do that because your going to put a huge amount of stress on the breaker bar, and if it breaks its going to probably shatter.
When i took mine off it felt like i was shifting the entire motor on the mounts. I was able to do it with a 18 inch breaker bar.. a friends car required 24inch breaker bar extended another 6 inches with a pipe on the end.
Seriously, wear eye protection and heavy gloves when you do that because your going to put a huge amount of stress on the breaker bar, and if it breaks its going to probably shatter.
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It's standard thread...lefty loosy/righty tighty. I snapped 2 (craftsman and a snap on) 1/2 to 3/8 reducers trying to get mine off. I finally used a 1/2" drive 15/16ths socket on my 1/2" torque wrench (roughly 3' long) and it came off fine.
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K, thanks for the help. I'll see if I can get something to break it loose. When I reinstall the bolt, what does it get torqued to?
Oh, and is it possible to get the crank pulleys off without a pulley puller?
Oh, and is it possible to get the crank pulleys off without a pulley puller?
#13
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Use a breaker bar and slip a STRONG pipe that does NOT fit loosely and go at it.
Make sure when you reassemble it is torqued properly (155+lbs but dont take my word ..look it up) or you will have ****ty oil pressure
Make sure when you reassemble it is torqued properly (155+lbs but dont take my word ..look it up) or you will have ****ty oil pressure
#14
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I retorqued to 155 ft-lbs. My torque wrench only goes to 150ft-lbs. I did it to that max torque, then nudged it a little farther with the breaker bar.
Some people say you can get the gears off without a puller, but having done 4 belt jobs ive never had luck without using one. Take the radiator fans out if you havent already (6 bolts) and use a socket as stand off for the gear puller on the center of the crank.
Some people say you can get the gears off without a puller, but having done 4 belt jobs ive never had luck without using one. Take the radiator fans out if you havent already (6 bolts) and use a socket as stand off for the gear puller on the center of the crank.
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Pick up a cheapo gear puller set from harbor freight to pull the crank gear....comes off in 30 secs. A three pack of pullers cost me somewhere between 9-11 beans.