NA maf - great results, and a question?
#31
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Originally Posted by d_roedel
After another day of tuning and screwing around with the computer, best setting is no voltage alteration.
Does this mean it ran best when you just took the AFM out, wired the MAF in and drove? It started and ran and made power? How come no one has done this before now? I mean, it's been 20 years and just now someone is figuring this out?
James
89 944 S2
#33
I will keep that in mind Sharky. I'm learning to use Pro-E at work so maybe I'll design up an adapter for the air box. As for 'just figuring it out', the substitution of a MAF for the AFM is nothing new - what is fairly new are dirt cheap MAFs that apparently need little or no tuning changes. I'm very tempted to find a Contour MAF at the local junk yard and play around with it... It shouldn't be too hard to make up a little adapter cable to hook the thing up without removing the original AFM connector.
#34
d-roedel :
What year was that MAF from ?
Any numbers on it ?
Just incase there are some differences from year to year on that part.
Thanks,
-----------------------------------------------------
Alex Portanova
1989 944 N/A
1999 Chrysler 300M
1992 Harley FXSTC
What year was that MAF from ?
Any numbers on it ?
Just incase there are some differences from year to year on that part.
Thanks,
-----------------------------------------------------
Alex Portanova
1989 944 N/A
1999 Chrysler 300M
1992 Harley FXSTC
#35
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as for the year, i dont know. I walked up to the car at the junk yard to get it, becasue this was the best way to find the right size. illl grab that part number--
#37
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Since the MAF is just a heated wire (right?) I could put the MAF and the AFM in series (air flow wise) witth the MAF first and the AFM second (hooked to the J boot). I could then hook up my O-Scope and run the car with both. Reading voltage signal and RPM so that I could compare the two.
This should tell me if the MAF is giving me a linear curve compared to the AFM or if the MAF voltage is dropping a little low at higher RPMs and causing lean conditions....
Hmmm...
But I don't want to stop the other work I am doing..LOL.. I got three engine pulls and one repaint in progress...
Plus my daughter is dating a Chef who thinks he is also a mechanic..... Note to self: Chefs can't even put on a battery terminal correctly as proven by my 4am wake up call to fix the daughters car this morning....
This should tell me if the MAF is giving me a linear curve compared to the AFM or if the MAF voltage is dropping a little low at higher RPMs and causing lean conditions....
Hmmm...
But I don't want to stop the other work I am doing..LOL.. I got three engine pulls and one repaint in progress...
Plus my daughter is dating a Chef who thinks he is also a mechanic..... Note to self: Chefs can't even put on a battery terminal correctly as proven by my 4am wake up call to fix the daughters car this morning....
#38
Hey Man
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Originally Posted by d_roedel
and for the "split second" box - splitsec.com and look at the air/fuel calibrators,,
Derek
Derek
#39
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Originally Posted by KuHL 951
Do you think there is anyway to adapt a Link II piggyback with this concept? I have an unused one with programer, etc. Doing it on the cheap is my style also if I already have the stuff to work with.
Last edited by jgporsche; 11-02-2006 at 03:09 PM.
#41
Defending the Border
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Rest In Peace
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Interesting NA MAF progress, I'm excited to see how this does.
I bet there are a couple of vendor's out there kicking themselves...
I bet there are a couple of vendor's out there kicking themselves...
#42
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yes, i have noticed none of them have chimed in yet...
but this makes perfect sense that it works because the MAF outputs the same voltage range the AFM does, and is much more accurate and can compensate for changes in the system better by the way it works.
but this makes perfect sense that it works because the MAF outputs the same voltage range the AFM does, and is much more accurate and can compensate for changes in the system better by the way it works.
#44
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YES, at the moment i have mine rigged to the split-second box, and it is telling the DME that it is always 70deg. just need a air temp sensor in line somewhere. (woops for got to add that earlier in the post)