I feel like killing now.........
#32
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Originally Posted by Granite 944
Thats a real nice picture. Now, you got one of WHERE the oil is leaking from? Or........do you even really KNOW yet?
Yes theres a pic too, but its hard to see in the pic, as I don't fit under my car very well with out it on stands.
#33
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Ok, so I'm about to trailer the 944 to somewhere with pavement where I can actually work on the car.
I was wondering if its would be possible to just use a hoist and lift the engine up several inches without dropping the cross-member. Is there enough room to life the motor that high without removing the hood?
Or am I just out of my mind?
I was wondering if its would be possible to just use a hoist and lift the engine up several inches without dropping the cross-member. Is there enough room to life the motor that high without removing the hood?
Or am I just out of my mind?
#34
Wax On, Wax Off
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the cross member must be removed. Fortunately, you can build a "hoist" yourself out of 4x4 pieces of wood and a chain on the foward engine lift point.
best of luck, this repair is a pain in the ***. I think the torque is a 3-step circular pattern, starting at the center and rotating outward in this fashion:
13 - 9-5-1-3-7-11
14-10-6-2-4-8-12
torque (IIRC) should be 4 lb-ft, 7 lb-ft, 9 lb-ft so start at 1, do all of em at 4 lb ft, then go to 1 again at 7 lb-ft, etc. etc.
good luck!
best of luck, this repair is a pain in the ***. I think the torque is a 3-step circular pattern, starting at the center and rotating outward in this fashion:
13 - 9-5-1-3-7-11
14-10-6-2-4-8-12
torque (IIRC) should be 4 lb-ft, 7 lb-ft, 9 lb-ft so start at 1, do all of em at 4 lb ft, then go to 1 again at 7 lb-ft, etc. etc.
good luck!
#35
Race Car
There are no short cuts in the oil pan deal. You absolutely have to remove the cross member and even then, you are going to have a hell of a time trying to tilt and getting it out and especially in. Most people will break the plastic baffle in the pan removing it so have a spare if you can. Make yourself VERY COMFORTABLE down there as you will be there for a while using profanities with oil dripping all over yourself while doing a job. Replacing the bearings will require plastigaging to make sure the tolerance is proper if you are going to replace them. Pressure the entire bottom of the car before you start the job. If you don't do these things, you will hate yourself while you are doing the job.
#37
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Amost done, WOOOOOOOO!!!!1111!!
Wow, so how long has it been, a month since I broke it? I finally have the "new" pan on the car, I have about 6 bolts holding it in place right now, after a little breather here, I'm going to finish torqing the bolts down, and I'll try to put the cross member back in place by my self with no jack before I leave for work in 2 hours.
This job wasn't all that bad untill I started trying to get the new pan on, by holding it in place with one are and trying to get the bastard dipstick tube worked up around all the brake lines ect.. Especially working in the sun right after a nice thunder/rain storm last night. If I am sent to hell, I just know I'll be replacing oil pans on these cars for eternity, what a PITA
Hopefully I can get it back to driving condition by Friday morning, I have a flight to catch.
EDIT: Pics to come next week, when I return from California.
This job wasn't all that bad untill I started trying to get the new pan on, by holding it in place with one are and trying to get the bastard dipstick tube worked up around all the brake lines ect.. Especially working in the sun right after a nice thunder/rain storm last night. If I am sent to hell, I just know I'll be replacing oil pans on these cars for eternity, what a PITA
Hopefully I can get it back to driving condition by Friday morning, I have a flight to catch.
EDIT: Pics to come next week, when I return from California.