Techno Duck

I just recieved a set of newly rebuilt control arms back from Travis at Rennbay after suffering an explosion of my old balljoint bushing (it was rebuilt also, but the pocket was excessivley worn out). Anyhow i am putting on these 968 caster blocks also. I read a few posts in the archives saying that the suspension must be preloaded before torquing the caster block to the control arm completley. I can understand the idea behind this, but i was wondering if it was necesary to torque both of the nuts while the suspension is preloaded? I installed the eccentric bolts into the blocks and torqued them down to spec while it was being held in a vice. The blocks are not installed on the arms yet. Do i need to loosen the eccentric bolt i torqued to spec already and retighten once i have the suspension preloaded? I dont think it makes a difference if that locking nut is torqued down, but i could be wrong. I just think its going to be a pain in the *** to torque those to spec while i have the car on ramps, i would need to put counter torque on the opposite end of the eccentric bolt i think right.. ? This is atleast how i needed to do it with the caster block in a vice.

Heres a picture of the blocks i took off the arms, i originally planned on not replacing them but saw how cracked the rubber was..



And thanks to Travis for the idea of primer and polyurethane high gloss clear coating!

Rich Sandor

Whatever you do, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT Overtorque the bolts that hold the caster blocks into the chassis.

There is a small nut that is spotwelded from the factory, on the inside of the chassis, which catches the caster block bolts. The spot weld can break loose easily if you overtorque it, and then you are screwed. (literally and figuratively!)

Torque to spec, and use loc-tite.

black944 turbo

I didn't use loctite but be very careful that you thread them by hand to the chasis. Also, the torque with the suspension loaded means leave the excentric bolts loose until you have the car on the ground or in my case the ramps. Then torque both ends of the eccentric to spec. Also do the same thing for the front control arm bushings. You do this to prevent the bushing from binding.

xsboost90

hand tight with a wrench is adequate. You'll need to take it to get aligned again anyway so i wouldnt worry too much about where the accentric is.

Mike C.

Be careful not to over torque the castor block bolts. I did and had to use a heli-coil.

Techno Duck

This is my 3rd time swapping control arms and ive read plenty about torquing the caster block to the body properly! I have the magic number of 34 ft-lbs remembered .

I was not aware you needed to have the front loaded to torque the control arm to crossmember also...looks like ill just ask my friend to let me put the car on the drive on lift. Thanks everyone!

As for a wheel alignment, it will probably be atleast a month before i get one done. Its a shame because i had one done 2000 miles before the balljoint died, i wonder what effect running a slightly out of whack caster will be for a few hundred miles.

arbeitm

Jon,

When I reinstall my control arms, I place a jack under them and jack until the weight of the car is on them and then torque the caster blocks to the body and the front crossmember bolts. This is how Clarks tells you to do it.

xsboost90

oh right the big bolts through the castor block. I put mine almost snug then dropped the car down off the jacks..rolled it around alittle then tightened them w/ the car sitting as it would be normally.