clutch ratling, pedal adjust
06-11-2006, 06:30 AM
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clutch ratling, pedal adjust
Hi.
I replaced my clutch to a spriong centered one 5k ago - only disc - bearing and press plate was good in my mechanic opinion. It engages high on my pedal and when I push it to the floor I hear ratling sound from clutch area - when pushing half a way its engages and there's no ratling so I wonder is it th T/O bearing cause it seems not??
And pedal travel should be 3mm but waht happens when I do the clearance bigger?? - I want to lower engage position and maybe if I lower it enough the sound will dissaper?
I replaced my clutch to a spriong centered one 5k ago - only disc - bearing and press plate was good in my mechanic opinion. It engages high on my pedal and when I push it to the floor I hear ratling sound from clutch area - when pushing half a way its engages and there's no ratling so I wonder is it th T/O bearing cause it seems not??
And pedal travel should be 3mm but waht happens when I do the clearance bigger?? - I want to lower engage position and maybe if I lower it enough the sound will dissaper?
06-12-2006, 07:59 AM
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If You adjust bigger clearance, You will shorten the master's cylinder piston travel and as a consequence also slave's cylinder piston. This should help, but such action will not fix the problem but only bypass it. If You are fine with such workaround, I say OK.
Pesonally, I would start with inspection of clutch slave cylinder / release lever assembly (Yeah, I know....exchaust, tranny...).
Tip: Is Your clutch slave cylinder original ? Common practice is repacement with one from Mercedes W126 (S-class). They are identical (case, diameters, mounting bolts/holes, travel, bleeding) except the LENGHT of the release pin. The pin in Mercedes is 6..8 mm longer. Maybe that is the problem.
Pesonally, I would start with inspection of clutch slave cylinder / release lever assembly (Yeah, I know....exchaust, tranny...).
Tip: Is Your clutch slave cylinder original ? Common practice is repacement with one from Mercedes W126 (S-class). They are identical (case, diameters, mounting bolts/holes, travel, bleeding) except the LENGHT of the release pin. The pin in Mercedes is 6..8 mm longer. Maybe that is the problem.
06-12-2006, 08:16 PM
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Its a hydraulicly operated clutch. Not much, if any adjustment to it, except for "free play" in the pedal. Thats why the FSM has a wear/tolerance measurement at the fork/piston travel.
You will NOT be able to "lower" the pedal adjustment, by making even a free play adjustment (not much anyway).
Thats all determined by the wear inside, on mainly the pressure plate, disk, AND, the thickness of the flywheel. CHECK THE FLYWHEEL THICKNESS!!
At least, this is the way I've come to understand it. No expert here, still learning myself.
I can tell ya, I replaced an engine with another, used the same clutch assy.(BRAND NEW SPRING CENTERED SACHS), EXCEPT the flywheel, and BOY oh BOY. The clutch operates at a MUCH higher level than before. I never checked the flywheel on the donor engine...................MISTAKE.....on my part.
Normally, the best thing to do when doing a clutch repair IS to replace ALL parts (IMHO). Disk, T.O. bearing, Pressure Plate, AND that little, tiny..............PILOT bearing in the back of the cranshaft. Check the wear on fork points, and the T.O. slide sleeve.
Your rattle...........is due to one or more of the other parts.............you DID NOT replace......IMO.
It MUST/SHOULD, ALL be replaced at the same time. There is no real way to tell when some of these other parts are gonna crap out on ya.
Check everything to the FSM spec. yourself..........first.........than.........
BLEEDING THE SYSTEM (BRAKE AND CLUTCH)...........is very benificial, and a WHOLE LOT cheaper and easier.........NEXT. Than, go from there.
You will NOT be able to "lower" the pedal adjustment, by making even a free play adjustment (not much anyway).
Thats all determined by the wear inside, on mainly the pressure plate, disk, AND, the thickness of the flywheel. CHECK THE FLYWHEEL THICKNESS!!
At least, this is the way I've come to understand it. No expert here, still learning myself.
I can tell ya, I replaced an engine with another, used the same clutch assy.(BRAND NEW SPRING CENTERED SACHS), EXCEPT the flywheel, and BOY oh BOY. The clutch operates at a MUCH higher level than before. I never checked the flywheel on the donor engine...................MISTAKE.....on my part.
Normally, the best thing to do when doing a clutch repair IS to replace ALL parts (IMHO). Disk, T.O. bearing, Pressure Plate, AND that little, tiny..............PILOT bearing in the back of the cranshaft. Check the wear on fork points, and the T.O. slide sleeve.
Your rattle...........is due to one or more of the other parts.............you DID NOT replace......IMO.
It MUST/SHOULD, ALL be replaced at the same time. There is no real way to tell when some of these other parts are gonna crap out on ya.
Check everything to the FSM spec. yourself..........first.........than.........
BLEEDING THE SYSTEM (BRAKE AND CLUTCH)...........is very benificial, and a WHOLE LOT cheaper and easier.........NEXT. Than, go from there.
06-14-2006, 03:41 AM
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Hej,
Piszmy po angielsku, bo goście tutaj się strasznie burzą, że niby nie tworzymy wartości dodanej w postaci bazy wiedzy dla wszystkich (tia...).
Ok, the clutch..... Did You replace the disc to new design spring centered disc or old design with rubber dumper ? Did You replace the pilot bearing ?
I would like to hear the rattling sound.... Dou You plan to participate in "Pultusk 2006" event ?
Piszmy po angielsku, bo goście tutaj się strasznie burzą, że niby nie tworzymy wartości dodanej w postaci bazy wiedzy dla wszystkich (tia...).
Ok, the clutch..... Did You replace the disc to new design spring centered disc or old design with rubber dumper ? Did You replace the pilot bearing ?
I would like to hear the rattling sound.... Dou You plan to participate in "Pultusk 2006" event ?
06-14-2006, 07:50 AM
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The clutch ios new design SACHS spring centered one, and no, I did not replaced pilot or throw-out bearing :-( Which one is which??
P.S. The first Porsche-party I'll go will be Porsche Meeting Poznań or Driving School Kielce.
P.S. The first Porsche-party I'll go will be Porsche Meeting Poznań or Driving School Kielce.
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06-14-2006, 09:31 AM
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Throw out is the bigger one which moves to release the clutch. It is puched by release lever. Pilot bearing is very small bearing in the center of flywheel. It supports the shaft's end.
I guess Your pilot bearing is gone. I don't know who serviced Your car but the pilot bearing and rear crank shaft seal replacement is manadatory when You replace the clutch. Especially, that those parts are cheap (ca 150 PLN all) comparing to the clutch's price and effort/labor cost to replace it.
I guess Your pilot bearing is gone. I don't know who serviced Your car but the pilot bearing and rear crank shaft seal replacement is manadatory when You replace the clutch. Especially, that those parts are cheap (ca 150 PLN all) comparing to the clutch's price and effort/labor cost to replace it.
06-15-2006, 03:44 AM
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I bought only clutch disk (money saving) - Complete Clutch Kit costs over 1000$ - info for US rennlisters, next time I'll buy it on e-bay 
and maybe someone will send me to Poland :-D
It's weird that the same kit (SACHS) manufactured in Germany is cheaper in the US.
Probably I will tune the clucth parts and maybe resurface my flywheel. BTW How should I check it for goodnes??? Does it have a wear limit (like brake disck for example)??
and maybe someone will send me to Poland :-DIt's weird that the same kit (SACHS) manufactured in Germany is cheaper in the US.
Probably I will tune the clucth parts and maybe resurface my flywheel. BTW How should I check it for goodnes??? Does it have a wear limit (like brake disck for example)??