SchnellerUmsetzer

Before you flush your 944/951 and add the WRONG STUFF!

I have researched the threads asked the experts ect.

I know that there are a lot of brands out there and I used "Petosin" the VW coolant when I could buy it.

I have looked and looked and finally found what can go in the Water cooled Porsche 944/951.


http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=11

KuHL 951

So are you saying the Zerex is the wrong stuff?

SchnellerUmsetzer

NO the right stuff is sold buy your factory Porsche dealer. It is known as "Petosin" German Anti-Freeze.

However this is equal. It has yet to recieve "Porsche approval" but is recommended for water colled Porsches. I have talked to my wrench, googled threads, Searched threads. The only stuff that I have found that is at NAPA, Auto Zone, ect that meets the no phosphate no silicate rule is this stuff.

Do I sell the stuff No

Mike C.

How do you make anti-freeze? (take away her nighty!)

Sorry....

KuHL 951

I was just wondering because I've been using the newer DexCool derivatives in all my cars for years with no issues at all. There are quite a few people here that got on the DexCool bashing bandwagon because of failures and false claims GM made about longevity (100K miles) and a bad intake gasket design on two of their v-engines. Leakage from the bad design allowed exhuast gases and air into the coolant that reduced the corrosion inhibitor concentrations to a point where the cooling systems were attacked after a few years. There were quite a few lawsuits. The present DexCool formulations are different now that Valvoline is marketing Zerex and the product is really a good one. Being phosphate and silicate free is the most critical aspect for the aluminum block and head. The new coolant does not have the compatibility problems with other coolants like the initial formula. I'll have to see who carries the Zerex Extreme when I flush next year. Thanks for the info.

87rb944

porsche guy told me to use audi/vw blue (pink's too aggresive says he) so i got some at vw dealer(cheaper than audi's).

WolfeMacleod

Nice to see it's an ETHYLENE Glycol and not a PROPYLENE Glycol.
I made the mistake of buying something Phosphate Free in large print, and then seeing in tiny print "Propylene Glycol"

tkacki

I use VW / Audi original coolant G12plus (latest, it substitutes G11 and G12). It's the ultimate performacne and fair price. It is based on ethylene glycol with lots of additives to extend life. This coolant doesn't need to be changed. It's the lifetime coolant. You change and forget it. Ask Your nearest VW/Audi dealer for this stuff. Here in Poland it costs about $12 for 1,5 liter bottle (concentrated). You need 3 bottles for a change.

PS. Dont forget to drain Your block, not only the radiator.

nickg

what you mean to say is "pentosin". that is a brand name, and so you know, the red stuff IS the VW G01200 antifreeze(sold it for years) the blue pentosin is the vw g01100 and is correct for earlier (87-94) cars and came as factory fill in bmw, porsche, audi and several others(oddly not benz) the red goes 95 up in audi, 95 up in porsche and bmw, mid 96 up vw. you absolutely cannot mix red and ble..it coagulates and is easy to spot ...contaminated red(g01200) it turns brown..darker it is the worse the contamination. the blue is compatible with most green anti freezes oin the market, however I would not recommend mixing them The red g01200 is a great upgrade to any car as it has a neat ability to "heal" small leaks by forming a frosting like coating on the surface of the leak..also makes it easier to spot the leak and even tell what it is leaking as it isn't dark red like dexcool (which also will work fine, and is phosphate and silicate free) I was trained on this stuff by CRP(the people who distribute it in this country) if you use the pentosin (i do in all my cars), go to a vw dealer and by it there it is only 10 a gallon, where as most plces here who sell it nder the pentosin name have liter bottles...which are smaller if you don't already know and get like 10 each for them. hope this helps...btw pentosin makes a great synthetic oil too...pentosyn and is available in 5w40 if you can't find rotella synthetic at wallymart

tkacki

Mix of G11 (g01100) and G12 (g01200) is not allowed. G12+ can be mixed with both G11 and G12. G12+ is purple. Here in Poland G11 and G12 have been withdrawn from the market. You can only buy G12+.

Waterguy

Take a look at the head pictures in this thread if you want to see why it is important to use an aluminum-compatible antifreeze.

nickg

the 12+ has not been used here yet except in the later porsches...elf makes that stuff btw. the vw's here are made in mexico mostly so we don'tget he newere stuff for a few years after you guys in the EU do

Rip It

I bought prestone, on the container it says can be used in aluminium engines, recommended by porsche, audi, etc.....

SchnellerUmsetzer

I guess you bought Prestone "PRIME"!

It says it is safe for all vehicals, but what is the silica and phosphate rating!

Manning

OK, from the research I have done over the past several years:

- Sodium Phosphate, which is the "phosphate" that you speak of, is not corrosive. It is actually added to coolant as a corrosion inhibitor. It is not corrosive to iron, it is not corrosive to aluminum, it is not even corrosive to Reynolds aluminum. However, it also is not the best corrosion inhibitor for aluminum blocks, which is why "aluminum safe" coolant generally does not have phosphate in it.

- Some anti corrosion additives can possibly cause mineral dropout. This is when mineral in the water "drop out" of solution and cause deposits. This can appear as reddish discoloration in the coolant passages, or whitish scale, etc. European and Asian manufacturers realize this and spec certain coolant for their vehicles because they cannot guarantee water in the rest of the world will not be crap. CYA in other word. Because of this fact, you should always avoid using tap water, especially if it is well water. G-d only knows what is in well water. As a matter of fact in northern area where roads are salted in the winter, that salt can and does make its way into ground water and thereby wells. Do also note the flouride added to municipal water is corrosive, and that other minerals found in municipal water will drop out of solution quite easily in aluminum block engines. It is very likely that if you dump your coolant into a bucket and see sediment in the bottom of the bucket that this is minerals that have dropped out of the water, not you engine coming apart because of the coolant you used.

- Running straight water is bad. Coolant is added to raise the boiling point, but it is also added as a lubricant. In addition, coolant has surficants in it, which make water wetter (yeah, that is why that stuff is called that) thereby causing the mixture to have better contact with the engine internal passaged. This is important not only for better heat transfer, but also to prevent cavitation, which will cause errosion. Errosion and corrosion are not the same thing, but look similar.

- You MUST change your coolant regularly. It does wear out and lose its effectiveness. 2 years is the standard rule of thumb.

- It doesn't appear you can judge a coolant by its color anymore. SAE had standards back in the day but these appear to have flown out the window.

All of that said, and I do have much more, if it is same price or even a little bit more expensive and it gives you peice of mind, by all means use the stuff people say is the "correct" stuff. On the other hand, if your mechanic added the reviled green stuff, not need to rush out and change it right away. It WILL NOT actively eat away your motor.