Are my front hubs FUBAR?
#1
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Hey everyone,
I used a 30mm socket to bang out the outer bearing races, and they came out ok. I maneuvered these washers to behind the inner races, then used the 30mm socket to hammer the large inner race out. I didnt damage the hubs in this process. The old races looked ok.
I put the new races in the freezer overnight, and the hubs in the oven for 30min at 265 degrees F. I struggled to put the races into the first hub; I used an old race to drive in the new ones, and they got stuck on both sides of the hub (2 races in each side!) I managed to get the extra one on the outer side out, but the inner one is still doubled up.
For the second hub, I raised the temp to 300F, and the outer race slipped in nice. I heard a slight whistle as the metals equilibrated (quickly). For the inner race I again struggled, and I had only got it in halfway when the metals equilibrated to the same temp. I continued to hammer at the race edge with a socket but it only went down a little more. Over all, 3 races took quite a bit of pounding and the hub took quite aq beating too. I think the bores the races go into are still ok, but the outer edges look bad.
At this point, I'm thinking of buying a new set of bearings and 2 new hubs, and just having a shop do it all. Can a machine shop fix this / can I get my hubs repaired?
Ro.jpg (right outer) is the one that went in easily. This job was WAY over my head and I think I screwed up pretty bad.
Thanks,
Arash
85.1 944
I used a 30mm socket to bang out the outer bearing races, and they came out ok. I maneuvered these washers to behind the inner races, then used the 30mm socket to hammer the large inner race out. I didnt damage the hubs in this process. The old races looked ok.
I put the new races in the freezer overnight, and the hubs in the oven for 30min at 265 degrees F. I struggled to put the races into the first hub; I used an old race to drive in the new ones, and they got stuck on both sides of the hub (2 races in each side!) I managed to get the extra one on the outer side out, but the inner one is still doubled up.
For the second hub, I raised the temp to 300F, and the outer race slipped in nice. I heard a slight whistle as the metals equilibrated (quickly). For the inner race I again struggled, and I had only got it in halfway when the metals equilibrated to the same temp. I continued to hammer at the race edge with a socket but it only went down a little more. Over all, 3 races took quite a bit of pounding and the hub took quite aq beating too. I think the bores the races go into are still ok, but the outer edges look bad.
At this point, I'm thinking of buying a new set of bearings and 2 new hubs, and just having a shop do it all. Can a machine shop fix this / can I get my hubs repaired?
Ro.jpg (right outer) is the one that went in easily. This job was WAY over my head and I think I screwed up pretty bad.
Thanks,
Arash
85.1 944
#3
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Hard to tell from your pictures, but I don't see what exactly is messed up. I would use a punch rather than a socket as you will likely not get enough direct force with the socket. I did mine with almost no heat/freezing. I did freeze the bearings overnight and heat the hubs, but by the time i got halfway through everything was equalized anyway. It just takes a lot of banging, but being very carefult o go straight (work back and forth side to side) and care not to scratch up surfaces such as races, the bores that you are trying to slide them into, etc.
#4
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Yeah, my digital camera is crap, but I tried to show the races and hub surfaces. I didn't gouge the races, but there are a few cosmetic scratch lines. The hub surfaces ended up getting some burrs and nicks, but I guess it's only the races that really matter.
My main concerns are 1) the second race that got stuck in front of the first, and 2) if excessive pounding and stuff weakens anything... I made sure anything that went in, went in straight. So do you guys think a machine shop can clean up this mess, or should I start lookin' for some hubs?
Thanks,
Arash
My main concerns are 1) the second race that got stuck in front of the first, and 2) if excessive pounding and stuff weakens anything... I made sure anything that went in, went in straight. So do you guys think a machine shop can clean up this mess, or should I start lookin' for some hubs?
Thanks,
Arash
#5
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I dont think you have damaged the hubs that bad. Just make sure to use a flat surface when pounding the races in and out. Place the hub on a good hard board on a solid surface (like a concrete driveway or a very solid workbench), the wood will keep the faces of the hub from deforming.
Try to get the old race out by itself, but my guess is that youre going to have to pound the new race out to get the old one out. So you will likely have to get a full new set to replace the ones you just installed. Also, I recommend, as above, to use a punch.
When reinstalling, take the old races and cut a slot through them (I used a dremel), that way you can use them to pound the new races in, but they wont get stuck. The freezer/oven method is helpful and reduces the effort/pounding needed to seat the new races.
The first time I did a set of bearings, I was really uncomfortable with how much pounding was needed. I didnt think it was the best way of doing it - thought that a hydraulic press should be used. So the next set I needed replaced, I took my hubs into a P-car shop and watched them do the same thing with a hammer and drift punch. And they marked up the hubs worse than I did. So from then on, Ive done all my wheel bearing replacements myself. You should be able to finish the job yourself.
Try to get the old race out by itself, but my guess is that youre going to have to pound the new race out to get the old one out. So you will likely have to get a full new set to replace the ones you just installed. Also, I recommend, as above, to use a punch.
When reinstalling, take the old races and cut a slot through them (I used a dremel), that way you can use them to pound the new races in, but they wont get stuck. The freezer/oven method is helpful and reduces the effort/pounding needed to seat the new races.
The first time I did a set of bearings, I was really uncomfortable with how much pounding was needed. I didnt think it was the best way of doing it - thought that a hydraulic press should be used. So the next set I needed replaced, I took my hubs into a P-car shop and watched them do the same thing with a hammer and drift punch. And they marked up the hubs worse than I did. So from then on, Ive done all my wheel bearing replacements myself. You should be able to finish the job yourself.
#6
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Thanks for the advice. I guess I'll get one new inner and outer bearing (with races) and have a machine shop fix everything up (r&r). The other hub has one race seated already, and the other race 90% in, so i'll just have them push it in the rest of the way. Again, I was really freaking out about stuff being messed up, so thanks for your help.
BTW you can see in one of the pics that I used my driveway as a workbench, but with no wood cushion!
BTW you can see in one of the pics that I used my driveway as a workbench, but with no wood cushion!
#7
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When we did Geoff's, we flipped the old race over which gave us a wider top surface to get a long punch in there and drive it back out. The slot oddjob referrs to is an excellent idea.
You should still be able to get a long punch in there to drive out the old race.
You should still be able to get a long punch in there to drive out the old race.
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#8
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I'd need an edge to put the punch onto, and since I put the old race in backwards, with the broad side outwards, there's no edge from through the other side to use (1st pic). I wish I had thought ahead to put the old race in the same way, so I would have something to punch on - I just totally didn't realize it would get stuck in there with the new one.