xsboost90

ok - my bottom end is toasted and i am planning on taking the motor out this week. I already have the head off and compression was good before i pulled it. Im thinking the rod bearing took a crap in turn 1 at putnam. I am hopefull that the crank etc is still good, but we'll see. I DO need a couple parts while its apart though

I need the rubber J boot from the air box for an N/A -ripped it somehow taking it off.
If anyone has a 2.7 longblock or shortblock that is DEFINITLY in good condition, this may be cheaper than repairing the one i have-maybe.
Does anyone know what type of baffle i can put into the pan to keep oil from leaving the pump while in hard cornering. I have seen a few but not sure which i need.

hoffman912

how do you know the bottom end is tost? what evidence do you see or have?
so you going to do a full rebuild as you talked about in your last post?

Macfreak007

Dan, SUCKS!, rod bearing is what killed my old motor. Definately sticking with the 2.7?

xsboost90

well..its knocking. Even when all of the belts are disconnected expt the timing, still knocking. Checked compression and its 120 psi across the board. IM guessing the valves arent bent. That leaves either wrist pins or bearings. I am pulling the motor, if its not totally screwed im rebuilding, or perhaps sending it to Farler to rebuild. She'll be detailed and no more oil leaks by this winter, one way or another.

TRWright

Put a 2.5 in it and sell me your head!

xsboost90

HAHA! Only if its a turbo.


OH- anyone have a speedo that WORKS for an early dash? Erins is broken and i cant seem to get it fixed no matter how many times i have it out. BUsted yet another speedo cable as well.

944Ecology

pm sent

gb

xsboost90

yuppers- checked out the crank tonite when the motor got out and number two spun the bearing and piggy backed each other. The crank doesnt "look" terrible but we'll see what the shop says. Remove a few more things and off to the engine shop she goes, not to come back till she is rebuilt and clean as a whistle. I guess its my turn to do the heavy spending. On my list of "to do while im in there" items

Linsay baffle/ crank scraper
waterpump, idlers/rollers
belts-again!- all seals top bottom lower front rear -everything
was thinking of all new lifters but....we'll see at $65 each
new pressure plate bolts since they are toast
new hoses, antifreeze obviously
J-boot since i ripped mine in half
injector seals-RENNBAAYYYY-already done
what, that isnt enough?

AznDrgn

I've got a 3.0L short block, someone correct me if I'm wrong but the block itself is the same as the 2.7L just uses different internals.

nine-44

OK, just confirmed it for you Dan. Same crank and rods as a 2.5L.

Mighty Shilling

btw, I have the lindsey baffle in my car... lowers the pickup tube and keeps oil from sloshing too much.

good luck!

xsboost90

yes, lindsey baffle will be in before this thing moves again!

_update- took the short block to the engine/machine shop today, i'll be back to pick it up when its back together. He also said he could put my other parts in the parts washing machine before i assemble this motor. She will be all pretty when she is running.

Macfreak007

Sweet Dan, you gonna do any paint work on th motor?

xsboost90

well, most of it will be nice and clean, the cam housing is painted already now, i may spray some things silver, and may as well do the intake whilst its off. Maybe i should spray the whole motor gloss black.

M758

2.7L Blocks will be very expensive. Try to just buy a crank. I think any 2.5L crank should work.