Bad torque tube?????
09-09-2005, 09:28 PM
#1
Drifting
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Bad torque tube?????
Ever had a one go bad??? Describe to me, how you knew it was bad. Was it the sound it made? Did it vibrate? Did it make different sounds at different RPM's??
Todd
Todd
09-09-2005, 09:32 PM
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I know mine is startin to go bad. When i dont have the clutch pushed in, the tube will make a whirring noise like a noisy fan almost. The sound travels up the tube and is mostly transmitted through my shifter hole.
09-10-2005, 12:11 AM
#4
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I had mine go bad in my 87 951. It developed a terrible vibration in the shifter right at 3000 rpms. Whether accelerating or decelerating. I replaced it myself and I'll tell you it's really a piece of work, but possible. I can't imagine what a shop would charge. Good luck. D
09-10-2005, 06:00 AM
#6
Nordschleife Master
Not sure if this is a bad torque tube bearing...but i get a very faint rattling sound coming from just infront of the transmission where the torque tube goes in. I localized it while climbing under hte car while it was on a lift. Reving the engine in neutral with the clutch pedal out i can hear the rattle increase and decrease with RPMs. Pushing the clutch in the sound goes away completley. Accelerating brisky i can hear the vibration at around 4500+ rpms. Have never noticed any excess vibrations in the shifter however.
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09-10-2005, 11:32 AM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Not really a huge deal, if you can get it out you can rebuild it for $50-$100 depending on how much your bearings run. A lot of the times the bearings tend to walk since they are only held in place by some ruer donuts. Here is a write up on how to change the bearings:
You will need to remove the transmission, and also drop the rear suspension. There really is no other way to get it out. The bearings are made by ***, but my replacements were made by SKS. The four bearings cost me a total of fifty US dollars. The bearings are press fit into the housings they live in. I paid twenty dollars to have a machine shop RR the bearings from the housings. The bearings might be available at an outo parts shop, but only if you have the bearing number from the old bearing. Since the torque tube is not considered rebuildably by Porsche ( who would rather screw us) the auto supply place would not have the bearing listed in theier catalogs. a bearing supply place would be better.
Once you have the tube stand it up vertical, with a drip pan underneath. Pour in a cup of motor oil, let stand over night. it will get things slippery inside. No longer than over night, because you do not want the oil to soak the rubber parts inside.
Next, get a 5 foot length of half inch id electrical conduit. this fits over the actual drive shaft, where the pilot bearing would be. Now hammer on the conduit until the shaft is driven out the other end of the tube. Now measure and record exactly where the bearing shells are located. You will want to reinstl them in the same location later. Once this is done, get a 5 foot section of 2 inch id PVC drain pipe from the plumbing store. Drive that pipe out the other end with a heavy hammer. the bearings will come loose now.
Clean everything up well. it might be good to clean the bearing housing with dishwashing liquid.
you will notice a nylon bushing inside each bearing. remove them carefully, I cannot imagine trying to get a replacement.
Now have the bearing pressed out from the housing and replaced.
Installation is done by making the outside of the rubber housings slippery with dishwashing liquid, then pressing each one back into place with the drain pipe. Make sure that the bearings end up in close to the same place, or the torque tube will vibrate. Last of all, drive the drive shaft into place by whacking on the big end of the driveshaft. A block of wood between the shaft and the hammer is reccomended.
This would be a good time to replace your clutch, since you will never have as much room to work. It is also a good time to drop the gas tank for cleaning and to replace all the rubber hoses that make the car smell.
You will need to remove the transmission, and also drop the rear suspension. There really is no other way to get it out. The bearings are made by ***, but my replacements were made by SKS. The four bearings cost me a total of fifty US dollars. The bearings are press fit into the housings they live in. I paid twenty dollars to have a machine shop RR the bearings from the housings. The bearings might be available at an outo parts shop, but only if you have the bearing number from the old bearing. Since the torque tube is not considered rebuildably by Porsche ( who would rather screw us) the auto supply place would not have the bearing listed in theier catalogs. a bearing supply place would be better.
Once you have the tube stand it up vertical, with a drip pan underneath. Pour in a cup of motor oil, let stand over night. it will get things slippery inside. No longer than over night, because you do not want the oil to soak the rubber parts inside.
Next, get a 5 foot length of half inch id electrical conduit. this fits over the actual drive shaft, where the pilot bearing would be. Now hammer on the conduit until the shaft is driven out the other end of the tube. Now measure and record exactly where the bearing shells are located. You will want to reinstl them in the same location later. Once this is done, get a 5 foot section of 2 inch id PVC drain pipe from the plumbing store. Drive that pipe out the other end with a heavy hammer. the bearings will come loose now.
Clean everything up well. it might be good to clean the bearing housing with dishwashing liquid.
you will notice a nylon bushing inside each bearing. remove them carefully, I cannot imagine trying to get a replacement.
Now have the bearing pressed out from the housing and replaced.
Installation is done by making the outside of the rubber housings slippery with dishwashing liquid, then pressing each one back into place with the drain pipe. Make sure that the bearings end up in close to the same place, or the torque tube will vibrate. Last of all, drive the drive shaft into place by whacking on the big end of the driveshaft. A block of wood between the shaft and the hammer is reccomended.
This would be a good time to replace your clutch, since you will never have as much room to work. It is also a good time to drop the gas tank for cleaning and to replace all the rubber hoses that make the car smell.
09-10-2005, 12:31 PM
#9
Race Director
I replaced mine in the 951 from my 924S parts car.
I did the clutch on the car when the plate that holds the secondary springs broke off and was flailing around the tube. When I did the clutch I did not like the noises in the tube bearings. So I swapped tubes with my low miles 87 924S parts car.
My failed springs on the clutch made a odd ring sound when yon shut the car down. You could hear this little plate spinning freely around the tube in the bell housing. I did not hear and tube bearing noises, but no sense in putting that tube back in with even minor bearing noises.
I did the clutch on the car when the plate that holds the secondary springs broke off and was flailing around the tube. When I did the clutch I did not like the noises in the tube bearings. So I swapped tubes with my low miles 87 924S parts car.
My failed springs on the clutch made a odd ring sound when yon shut the car down. You could hear this little plate spinning freely around the tube in the bell housing. I did not hear and tube bearing noises, but no sense in putting that tube back in with even minor bearing noises.
