FletchDM

I totally understand where you're coming from. As a builder of composite model aircraft (toys that go really fast), I know how much work is tied up in making plugs and molds. There's also the time involved in making parts. Almost anything made in a composite (not metal) mold will be done using room-temp resin systems. I use aircraft-grade epoxy most of the time, so that means with one mold only one part could be made per day if I still want to have a job and a life. So, from my end, it would almost need to be a made-to-order thing, or perhaps made in batches. And despite the fact that I am not yet a paid member on Rennlist, the commitment thing is not a problem for me.

-David

pcarphanatik

At work we made up a new slogan for Microsoft

EXCHANGE: The Virus Propagator!

MachSchnell

After reading this thread, thinking that a number of 2D things mentioned weren't bad ideas, then seeing them shot down for either being too "ricey" too "complicated" or too "non functional" I'd like to ask bleucamaro if he had anything in mind since all but 1 or 2 of everyone elses' ideas were either not to his personal taste, or too hard to create...I for one enjoy some carbon fiber trim and/or body panels, but these are apparently unappealing to you or out of reach due to difficulty. After looking my car over fairly thoroughly, I can't find too many 2D things that would benefit from non aesthetically appealing functional 2 dimensional carbon fiber that would cost (by inference) between $600-$800 for simple things like logos and scripts and presumably anything else you don't particularly enjoy. So perhaps it would be better if you (other than headlight buckets) came up with some ideas and we could post whether or not we'd buy them - that way we don't offend you with suggestions.

Don't mean to come off as negative here, but it's like pulling up to a McDonalds drive through, being asked what you want, telling them, and then being told that they don't like making it because it tastes 'yucky', or that it's too hard to make.

FletchDM

Keep in mind, folks, that a main reason bleucamaro turned down the cosmetic parts (dash trim pieces, etc.) is primarily that the carbon he has access to, and is looking to use, is unidirectional fabric. Uni carbon doesn't work well for cosmetic stuff, as it doesn't have the cool twill pattern that everyone thinks of when they think "carbon." In carbon uni, all the fibers run in one direction, which is very useful in making structural parts, since the fibers lay flatter and you can engineer the strength of the part by orienting the different layers as needed to get the fibers running in the optimum directions.

For anyone who wants to make carbon stuff for their car, all you need is available from places like Composite Structures Technology http://www.cstsales.com/ and Aircraft Spruce http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/. The time and effort to learn the techniques can be rewarding in their own right.

bleucamaro

Machschnell: I am looking to make bracketry and 2D parts because the time, resources, and expense involved in making molds is simply not worth it for me to do this afterhours at work. To replicate body parts and interior parts, I have to start with a known geometry (donor car that I don't have). I've repeated this a number of times. The prices for the blingbling goober parts were a joke (as were the badge suggestions). If a badge is what you want, there are all kinds of veneer (sp) available online with adhesive backing that look very real.

The reason for using small 2D parts is because of limited resources, and to co-cure them with other production parts in the autoclave. Uni doesn't flex the same way that a twill does, and cannot be made into intricate geometrys nicely. It does work VERY well for making flat parts though. With flat parts, I can machine them into shape easily, and cheaply.

The reason for this thread was to hear peoples ideas and to assess their feasability. The headlight buckets I believe it will be small enough for me to make a foam buck to splash a mold from. I didn't intend to sound like a short order chef.

Fletch is absolutly correct in what he's said, and CST is a great place to buy materials if you want to get started in composites, as is West Marine. I unfortunately don't have the resources to do wet layups at this time. When I get a house and a garage, I'll be looking into it more.

As for my suggestions, I can make a radio delete panel, and possibly one to hold a couple gauges but I need gauge dims first. A mirror bracket is also possible, but it would be 2D and I'm unsure of how much it will buffet in the wind (vibrating mirror won't do much good). Thats about all I can think of off hand. I'll probably get with Steve (kuhl951) about fixing his ugly rear, but it might not be a graphite piece he goes with.

Robby

Hey man- what about some of the things I mentioned in my two replies? None of those would require the uni-directional pattern, as they are spacers, undercar, or, would be carpeted over, etc....? I know that there aren't many people who care to get further back in their cars, although, there are people who would benefit from it slightly for various reasons, but, it comes down to what people here actually do w/their cars, &, that is really quite a range... I DID have several people e-mail me, several years ago, about the pedal / steering wheel spacers- it comes down to a positioning thing, actually- these cars are really set up better for taller people- one of the few sports cars that can sit a 6'4" + frame comfortably... For someone who is 5'9", like me, it can be annoying- the pedals are far under the dash & the rake of the windshield puts front of the SR directly over face, so, that the whole thing seems to be behind the driver- one to two inches makes a tremendous difference.... As for cup holders on the glove box door back- I'm surprised that no one has actually done something like this, since, the idea really came from the factory- a thicker backside panel would work well- people who use their cars for longer commutes & who drive extended periods on regular occasions might appreciate this- I've always hated the intrusive tack-on style cup holders & the ones that are made for our cars center consoles actually delete our arm rests, so..... Not sure about the Batwing- was there a reason you didn't want to try to tackle this one? Might be too big of a piece...?

anyway, thanks....

bleucamaro

oops. I'm so sorry Robby, I didn't even see those suggestions. I'm not sure I'm following you on the pedal spacers. Are you looking to bring the brake closer to the throttle for easier heel/toe, or looking to bring the pedals higher off the floor?

For the steering wheel spacer, are you suggesting a 20mm thick block, or a molded piece?

Which undertray piece is the 'batwing', It was my understanding that its the rear diffuser wing. Is it one of the front pieces?

The glovebox door thing is quite doable. do you know if the front of the glove box door seperates from the back. I can easily do a flat panel with holes cut in it for 2 cups and attached to the door with computer type standoffs.

WesM951

bleucamaro,
I still need to send you the solidworks file for the buckets. I'll try to tonight.

bleucamaro

still waiting send me a PM too so I'll check my mail

WesM951

bahh i'm still working on it. Never give your friend a faster laptop then desktop of his.

Scootin159

The batwing is the front-most underbody panel. It's between the nose and the under-engine tray.

Robby

Whoops..... please see my next reply, below....

Dan Gallagher

id be interested in flat sheets to make interior door panels from...i will cut to shape and cut for roll cage myself.

Robby

Hey blue-man- thanks for the reply- I'm fighting a virus/worm:
trojan startpage.19.j
It's driving me CRAZY!!!!! I've been having trouble keeping up the last few days...


Yes, as mentioned above, the batwing is the black plastic piece that spreads out behind the chin spoiler- usually breaks in one of the two front clip parts- BUT, from your original description of the sizes of parts that you can aquire, it MIGHT be a long shot- the piece is of decent size...

Glove box- yes, the backside of the glove box door seperates from the door itself.... it is held on by the main screw that connects the latch piece, AND, a bunch of little tiny screws that are embedded all the way around- ALSO, the two bottom hinge pieces at the base have screws going through them that squeeze it together- it's on there pretty good The early cars that actually HAD the factory cup holders could be used as a model, only, they could be deeper, BUT.... the later air bag cars had a metal AB-warning sign there instead of the cup holders... I bought the old style back to screw onto my glove box door & MOST of the screws lined up- the fit seemed perfect, BUT, when I went to shut the door, it would not close.... the edges that actually sink INTO the glove box over the "checks" were just a HAIR too wide- maybe 1/8" on each side... so, it would have to be altered slightly for AB cars...

The pedals- I want to bring them closer to the seat... I have some Sparco pedal covers- they're shaped better for heel & toe, etc... I just need a little block, nicely shaped/finished, for the pedals, etc, &, possibly one for the dead pedal....? I have a Sparco dead pedal too, but, have not installed it- IF you made some from carbon fibre, I could just use a carbon fibre block as the dead pedal itself- shaped like the vinyl patch on the floorboard- could mount it w/industrial velcro or something & be done, w/out any drilling , etc.... The wooden spacers I am currently using are mounted more sturdily.... I drilled two holes in the metal brake AND clutch pedals- I then took a medium sized wood-screw & screwed them into block (spacer) from the backside of the pedal- THEN, I screwed the pedal covers into the blocks- a friend helped me do it & I really wanted to use at LEAST one more screw on the backside- maybe a triangular shape OR better yet, a four-point set-up, BUT, it was just a short-term experiment, &, it has held up perfectly for over a year now.... I just dont like the looks, &, I'd like to make them a touch thicker... they are 1.5"- same for the accel pedal, only, in it's case, I velcroed it on- sounds pretty weak, but, again, it's held up for over a year- I just didn't want to drill through the original plastic pedal w/it's ridges, etc, on the backside, & I couldn't come up w/a good way to do it, although I DID intend to come back & get at LEAST ONE screw into it from behind, just like the others...

Steering wheel- I have a Momo w/15mm Momo spacer- I stacked the 5mm horn ring w/the 15mm spacer, for a total of 20mm- the bolts that came w/the spacer BARELY fit... I would really like longer bolts, but, can't find a good match... size, allen head, etc... I had bought TWO 15mm spacers to stack (for 30mm), but, it wouldn't work b/c of how they're machined... 20mm is better than nothing, but, is now the limiting factor as to how far back I can go in the car... But, the further I space it, the further away the signal stalk gets- I LOVE the fact that I don't accidentally activate the wipers w/my nuckles anymore, but, the signal stalk is at the end of my reach- it feels fine now- I'm used to it & actually like it, but, much more & I would have to remove my hand from the wheel to reach it... I'm not sure how to fix this w/out finding a way to space the whole column out.... Otherwise, I'm left w/20mm I guess- any ideas here? Maybe I should post a seperate thread for this....? I'm also not sure how long the bolt is in there- I was thinking that IF I could do it, then, I could KEEP the 20mm worth of hub spacing (or at least 15mm) & ADD another spacer to space the whole thing- say 15mm, so, I'd have a total of 30 or 35mm....? Too much more than this would probably start to look silly..... So, if nothing else, a simple 20mm carbon fibre hub spacer.....? Block or molded? I'm not sure I follow here...? I don't think it would matter really.....

Sorry this got so long....

thanks a lot....
Robby

bleucamaro

I might have something big enough just laying around what thickness are you looking for? are you mounting anything to them? There might be a dud facesheet in the trash I can dig up. would .020 be too thin?