How to Wire the Airbag to get rid of the Light?
03-22-2005, 01:29 AM
#1
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
How to Wire the Airbag to get rid of the Light?
Hey,
I am removing the stock steering wheel on my 87 turbo. I want to get rid of the airbag so how do I wire the airbag wire so I don't have the light stay on? Do I complete the circuit and just hook the two wires together? Thanks
I am removing the stock steering wheel on my 87 turbo. I want to get rid of the airbag so how do I wire the airbag wire so I don't have the light stay on? Do I complete the circuit and just hook the two wires together? Thanks
03-22-2005, 11:03 AM
#3
do a search on the forums...someone posted the procedure on how to bypass the airbag system when removing the stock wheel. You will also need to modify or replace the combination switch in order for your horn to work.
03-22-2005, 11:22 AM
#4
Racer
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Scottsdale AZ
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check this out,
look down below air filter, you will see airbag deletion...
http://www.944s2.com/how-to/how-to.htm#air_filter
By any slim chance is your airbag wheel Burgandy and in good condition? If so, I would be interested in it.
look down below air filter, you will see airbag deletion...
http://www.944s2.com/how-to/how-to.htm#air_filter
By any slim chance is your airbag wheel Burgandy and in good condition? If so, I would be interested in it.
03-22-2005, 02:12 PM
#5
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
That is really confusing to me for some reason. Do I have to replace the turn signal stalk or as he put it the multi-function switch? Or no? I don't think my little airbag rotary thing will pop out of its rubber piece.
03-22-2005, 02:20 PM
#6
Derek,
The airbag clockspring behind the steering wheel is held on by two screws. It comes right off. Then you need the copper piece that fits on the combination switch that contacts the new wheel for the horn to work. I believe you can purchase the part seperately and pop it into place.
The airbag clockspring behind the steering wheel is held on by two screws. It comes right off. Then you need the copper piece that fits on the combination switch that contacts the new wheel for the horn to work. I believe you can purchase the part seperately and pop it into place.
Trending Topics
03-22-2005, 02:29 PM
#8
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. I still cannot find the thread with the search. Any good words to use? Also, the stock piece that you are talking about aribop, it already has the horn connection for the stock wheel correct? That is the piece that pops out and is to be replaced? Thanks
03-22-2005, 02:32 PM
#9
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
AH! I think I get it now. lol, it is very simple but for some reason I was confused. So you remove that piece with the 2 screws that has teh coil in it. Unplug the wires? Then get the new piece is it the part number in the link that AZS2 posted? 928-652-104-00? Then what do I do with the wires that I unplugged? I am having trouble finding that thread on it....Thanks!
03-22-2005, 07:33 PM
#12
Advanced
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Naples, Florida U.S.A.
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
With all appropriate credits to 944s2.com author:
PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG & WARNING LIGHTS
At this point the car will run and the passenger side airbag will still be operational. However, the Airbag Indicator, Seat belt, and warning lights will remain lit because the SRS controller will register a fault from the disconnected driver's side airbag.
There are at least two methods that can be used to turn off the warning lights.
METHOD 1: SNIP THE WARNING LIGHT WIRES. The SRS controller is the bright orange module bolted to the underside of the dash in front of the glove box. It connects to the car harness through a round, 7-pin connector. The wire colors and functions are as follows:
1- brown, ground
2- red/black, central electric KL50
3- black/white, central electric N48
4- black /red, supply for DME relay
5- white, buzzer relay, seat belt
6- unused
7- yellow/black, airbag warning lamp
To keep the warning lights from activating, snip wires 5 and 7 on either the car side of the harness or at the controller itself. (Note: the wires directly attached to the controller are different colors). I didn't use this method because I didn't want to cut any wires in the car harness or controller. In any event, if you snip the wires or just leave the warning lights on, you do NOT KNOW THE STATUS OF THE SYSTEM. Therefore, I recommend the passenger side airbag also be removed or disconnected AT THE BAGS to ensure the bag contacts are shorted. This requires pulling the glove box, which is easily removed by taking out the 5 Phillips screws, the glove box light, and the glove box door. Removal of the passenger airbag is a PITA. I left mine intact, but disconnected.
METHOD 2: DISCONNECT THE CONTROLLER. This is the method I used. If you just disconnect the 7-pin connector the car won't start because the controller needs to send a signal to the DME relay via pin 4. This problem can be overcome by jumping pins 3 and 4 together so the relay receives a signal. The easiest method to do this is to use an old controller-side connector half from a bad controller... or the one from your old controller if you don't intend to use it again. This preserves the integrity of the stock wiring.
I suggest cutting all the wires off the back of the old plug except those corresponding to pins 3 and 4, solder or crimp those two wires together, and protect with shrink wrap or other suitable method (I sealed the back of the connector with RTV). Insert the modified plug into the car side connector half and the engine will start and function normally, and the warning lights will be deactivated :-)
I have one reservation about using this method however. In the event of a real crash that would have been sufficient to deploy the airbags, the controller interrupts power to the DME relay. This turns off the engine and fuel pump. By leaving the controller connected and snipping the warning light wires, this feature is retained.
I really love the look and feel of the 3-spoke steering wheel, and the slightly smaller diameter is nice for the added leg room and quicker steering. If you can live (no pun intended) without the airbags, I highly recommend fitting the 968 CS or similar steering wheel if you drive on the track. Take a look here.
Dissclaimer: I do not advocate removing or deactivating the airbags for purely cosmetic reasons. There are valid reasons for removing or deactivating the airbags, such as: track use, equipment age, or protection for short drivers. Weigh the associated risks and make your own informed decision.
PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG & WARNING LIGHTS
At this point the car will run and the passenger side airbag will still be operational. However, the Airbag Indicator, Seat belt, and warning lights will remain lit because the SRS controller will register a fault from the disconnected driver's side airbag.
There are at least two methods that can be used to turn off the warning lights.
METHOD 1: SNIP THE WARNING LIGHT WIRES. The SRS controller is the bright orange module bolted to the underside of the dash in front of the glove box. It connects to the car harness through a round, 7-pin connector. The wire colors and functions are as follows:
1- brown, ground
2- red/black, central electric KL50
3- black/white, central electric N48
4- black /red, supply for DME relay
5- white, buzzer relay, seat belt
6- unused
7- yellow/black, airbag warning lamp
To keep the warning lights from activating, snip wires 5 and 7 on either the car side of the harness or at the controller itself. (Note: the wires directly attached to the controller are different colors). I didn't use this method because I didn't want to cut any wires in the car harness or controller. In any event, if you snip the wires or just leave the warning lights on, you do NOT KNOW THE STATUS OF THE SYSTEM. Therefore, I recommend the passenger side airbag also be removed or disconnected AT THE BAGS to ensure the bag contacts are shorted. This requires pulling the glove box, which is easily removed by taking out the 5 Phillips screws, the glove box light, and the glove box door. Removal of the passenger airbag is a PITA. I left mine intact, but disconnected.
METHOD 2: DISCONNECT THE CONTROLLER. This is the method I used. If you just disconnect the 7-pin connector the car won't start because the controller needs to send a signal to the DME relay via pin 4. This problem can be overcome by jumping pins 3 and 4 together so the relay receives a signal. The easiest method to do this is to use an old controller-side connector half from a bad controller... or the one from your old controller if you don't intend to use it again. This preserves the integrity of the stock wiring.
I suggest cutting all the wires off the back of the old plug except those corresponding to pins 3 and 4, solder or crimp those two wires together, and protect with shrink wrap or other suitable method (I sealed the back of the connector with RTV). Insert the modified plug into the car side connector half and the engine will start and function normally, and the warning lights will be deactivated :-)
I have one reservation about using this method however. In the event of a real crash that would have been sufficient to deploy the airbags, the controller interrupts power to the DME relay. This turns off the engine and fuel pump. By leaving the controller connected and snipping the warning light wires, this feature is retained.
I really love the look and feel of the 3-spoke steering wheel, and the slightly smaller diameter is nice for the added leg room and quicker steering. If you can live (no pun intended) without the airbags, I highly recommend fitting the 968 CS or similar steering wheel if you drive on the track. Take a look here.
Dissclaimer: I do not advocate removing or deactivating the airbags for purely cosmetic reasons. There are valid reasons for removing or deactivating the airbags, such as: track use, equipment age, or protection for short drivers. Weigh the associated risks and make your own informed decision.
03-23-2005, 02:36 PM
#13
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I just got that part in today. I'm going to install it and see how it goes. Can I still use my black cover for around the multi function switch? Hope so. Anyways, here is the pic.
03-23-2005, 07:22 PM
#14
Advanced
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Naples, Florida U.S.A.
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
9fitty1:
Is the piece in your picture p/n 928-652-104-00? If so, would you please post a picture of the backside of it and also where it mounts on the multi function switch and lastly where were you able to purchase the part from? TIA
Is the piece in your picture p/n 928-652-104-00? If so, would you please post a picture of the backside of it and also where it mounts on the multi function switch and lastly where were you able to purchase the part from? TIA
Last edited by runnin' on empty; 03-23-2005 at 07:24 PM. Reason: forgot a question
03-24-2005, 02:01 AM
#15
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well, the part number on the back is different from that number. Which concerns me a little. I purchased it from Ian @ 944online.com. But I gave him the part number you have and he sent me this. It was 9 bucks or so. Pelican has it for less but I wanted mine faster than a week. I couldn't figure out for the life of me out its going to fit. Please, someone out there that has done this chip in and explain. I am going crazy with this. Pics? Thanks