Making wet braking safer with crossdrilled/slotted rotors?
#1
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Making wet braking safer with crossdrilled/slotted rotors?
Is it true that cross drilled or slotted rotors will improve braking in the soaking wet somewhat?
Coming out of puddles, then the person in front stopping suddenly, leading to a few very close almost rear enders, has me asking this question. Im coming up to replacing all the rotors (prolly later in the spring, with new pads) so thats why im asking. Its quite terrifying trying to stop and feeling like im on ice for a second or two or three, yet im out of the puddle and at a very low speed...
Coming out of puddles, then the person in front stopping suddenly, leading to a few very close almost rear enders, has me asking this question. Im coming up to replacing all the rotors (prolly later in the spring, with new pads) so thats why im asking. Its quite terrifying trying to stop and feeling like im on ice for a second or two or three, yet im out of the puddle and at a very low speed...
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Originally Posted by Danno
What kind of pads are you using? I haven't ever noticed a reduction in braking force after fjording rivers...
What about just as youre coming out of the puddle?
#6
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if you want better breaking in rain, get tires suited for wet traction. the biggest problem with rain braking isnt the braking part.. its the traction, or lack of on the tires that prevents it from stopping.. ie hydroplaining.
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Originally Posted by hoffman912
if you want better breaking in rain, get tires suited for wet traction. the biggest problem with rain braking isnt the braking part.. its the traction, or lack of on the tires that prevents it from stopping.. ie hydroplaining.
Tires are the best investment you can make in your car.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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Hoosier dirt stockers are AMAZING in the wet on the track....
the tiny holes or slots of a crossdrilled/slotted rotor will do nothing for you, in the wet, and in my opinion in the dry. Stick with plain old stock!
the tiny holes or slots of a crossdrilled/slotted rotor will do nothing for you, in the wet, and in my opinion in the dry. Stick with plain old stock!
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Originally Posted by hoffman912
if you want better breaking in rain, get tires suited for wet traction. the biggest problem with rain braking isnt the braking part.. its the traction, or lack of on the tires that prevents it from stopping.. ie hydroplaining.
I even had trouble a good 10 seconds after going through a fairly minor puddle, going uphill. The hill was after the puddle... And that happened a few times, where the braking would feel icelike a while after a puddle, so thats why im leaning towards the brakes rather than tires...
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Originally Posted by The DareDevil
"Fording" rivers...
(In the 944?)
(In the 944?)
#11
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you feel like your on ice, because your hydroplaining.. same effect.. no traction and you slide.. hydroplaining is the same feeling as if you were on a sheet of ice.
#12
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Originally Posted by hoffman912
you feel like your on ice, because your hydroplaining.. same effect.. no traction and you slide.. hydroplaining is the same feeling as if you were on a sheet of ice.
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Water on cold rotors will feel like the brakes are gone for a moment, until the scraping and heat has removed/evaporated the water. It is probably true, that the drilled rotors can hold more water.
I read somewhere that Mercedes’ Maybach has a feature that keeps its rotors hot by occasionally applying the brakes and compensate with the throttle.
You could emulate that feature manually with your left foot occasionally on the brakes. I have tried that in the rain and it actually works.
Laust
I read somewhere that Mercedes’ Maybach has a feature that keeps its rotors hot by occasionally applying the brakes and compensate with the throttle.
You could emulate that feature manually with your left foot occasionally on the brakes. I have tried that in the rain and it actually works.
Laust
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Originally Posted by Peckster
Probably. Slow down, the brakes are not the problem.