Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders
#1
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Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders
Why is everyone saying that if the clutch MC leaks you MUST replace the slave AND the hose?
Last night i was bleeding the rear brakes to set the bias valve, and looked for bleeding the clutch slave cylinder.
The clutch housing inspection plug was missing but everything was bone dry, my clutch MC however is wet (started leaking).
Question is, i know some people that claim NOT to replace any parts except for those that need replacement, and other claiming the opposite.
Why do you need to replace the clutch slave and hose when replacing the clutch mc???? Is there a 'standard theory' beind this? why would one leak after replacing another ie replaced a leaking clutch MC and then the slave would start leaking?
TIA!
Last night i was bleeding the rear brakes to set the bias valve, and looked for bleeding the clutch slave cylinder.
The clutch housing inspection plug was missing but everything was bone dry, my clutch MC however is wet (started leaking).
Question is, i know some people that claim NOT to replace any parts except for those that need replacement, and other claiming the opposite.
Why do you need to replace the clutch slave and hose when replacing the clutch mc???? Is there a 'standard theory' beind this? why would one leak after replacing another ie replaced a leaking clutch MC and then the slave would start leaking?
TIA!
#3
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I replaced both when my slave failed because I didn't want to get stranded in case the lore was correct. For the $60 or so you'll have to spend on the slave, I don't see why you wouldn't do it too for the peace of mind. I did not, however, order the hose (an oversight, I guess -- it only costs a couple $). Sure enough, after replacing the cylinders, I discovered that my hose had sprung a leak while being disconnected or reconnected. Out came the master cylinder again...
#4
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As for me, the extra $60 for the slave would also add $$$ in shipping (outside the USA)..........
My MC has been leaking for ~6 months now (just wet, no drips) and nothing wrong with the clutch or shifting (yet).
I want to tackle these myself, so i just wanted to know why does the slave fail after you replac ethe MC?
My MC has been leaking for ~6 months now (just wet, no drips) and nothing wrong with the clutch or shifting (yet).
I want to tackle these myself, so i just wanted to know why does the slave fail after you replac ethe MC?
#5
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Originally Posted by hosrom_951
I want to tackle these myself, so i just wanted to know why does the slave fail after you replac ethe MC?
#7
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The reasoning behind replacing both is based mainly on anecdotal evidence. The theory is that each of the cylinders has a finite number of cycles and as the number of cycles increases, the closer to failure. The other part of the idea is that a new part, say a mc, can exert full pressure in the system, which the failing part of the system couldn't do. This slight increase in pressure by the new part on the rest of the "old" system can finish off another part that is in the process of failing. If you can rebuild the other, I'd recommmend it. It's been my experience that when one goes, the other isn't far behind. So it makes sense to "overhaul" the entire system. The reason behind replacing the hose is similar to that of brake hoses, they have a finite lifespan, although a failed clutch hose probably won't get you into an accident.
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#8
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There is a clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit from Paragon, the manual also descirbed the rebuilding proceedure as well..........
The reason is for the shipping, you might say only 1-2lbs would't be much, but the parts im planning on ordering already exceeded 12lbs, from there prices go up.........so that is why i am asking that's all
The reason is for the shipping, you might say only 1-2lbs would't be much, but the parts im planning on ordering already exceeded 12lbs, from there prices go up.........so that is why i am asking that's all
#9
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A rebuild should be ok since both cylinders rely on rubber seals to allow the transfer of hydraulic pressure. The main thing to look out for is scratches on the cylinder walls. You'll need to hone the inside of the cylinders as well.
#10
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Yes, i am aware of the honing needed. Any special tools needed for this?
Anyone have details on rebuilding the slave cylinder?
Anyone have details on rebuilding the slave cylinder?
#12
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I just did this yesterday on my turbo. It was not really fun just b/c of the cold and the tight spots you have to work in. My pedal was not fully returning to the home position and the distance of clutch engagement was getting real short. Pretty easy diagnosis.
I replaced the slave, mc and hose, it appears the mc was the culprit, it was leaking. I also ordered a pressure bleeder from paragon with the parts. It made the sometimes frustrating job of bleeding the clutch a simple, one-man job. It's better than the vac bleeder I have used for the brakes in the past. Clutch feels great now!!
I would rec. that you thread the hard line into each part before you fully tighten the part down, it can be tricky. It really helps to get the starter off, too, but that heat shield can be a bitch.
Jason
I replaced the slave, mc and hose, it appears the mc was the culprit, it was leaking. I also ordered a pressure bleeder from paragon with the parts. It made the sometimes frustrating job of bleeding the clutch a simple, one-man job. It's better than the vac bleeder I have used for the brakes in the past. Clutch feels great now!!
I would rec. that you thread the hard line into each part before you fully tighten the part down, it can be tricky. It really helps to get the starter off, too, but that heat shield can be a bitch.
Jason
#13
Originally Posted by MY83944
Reason:
Murphy's Law
Murphy's Law