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1987 944 Transmission Trouble!!!

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Old 11-28-2004, 12:42 PM
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87Porsche944Guy
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Default 1987 944 Transmission Trouble!!!

Hi everyone,

I have recently purchased an automatic 1987 Porsche 944. It is in really good condition except that i'm haveing transmission trouble. The car will crank but will not move upon movement of the shifter. This puzzles me and my dad considering we have never worked on an older model porsche. Please if anyone has any information or methods of troubleshooting please reply!
Old 11-28-2004, 03:12 PM
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Legoland951
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Its possible you have a broken damper up in the front (equivalent to a clutch). Check that first.
Old 11-28-2004, 03:18 PM
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89magic98
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Do you have sufficient AT fluid in there?
Old 11-28-2004, 05:19 PM
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87Porsche944Guy
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We just purchased the car and haven't checked anything yet. Have ordered a transmission filter kit and will try this with fresh fluid first. Not sure where the damper is but i have a manual on the way. Thanks.
Old 11-28-2004, 06:18 PM
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AznDrgn
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the damper is right where a clutch would be on a manual car, at the back of the motor inside the bell housing. before you go through the trouble of changing out the tranny filter I'd just make sure the fluid is full and if it is look through the clutch slave observation hole in the bell housing and see if you can see any chunks of rubber and go from there. If you find the damper is shot depending on the availabilty of parts, your budget, and what you want to do to with the car you might find it will be easier and cheaper to convert it to a manual transmission. But first you gotta figure out what is wrong with it.
Old 11-28-2004, 09:39 PM
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87Porsche944Guy
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Ok i have a good idea where the damper plate is so i am going to have a look at it. You say it would be easier to convert the transmission to manual than replacing the damper plate? How is that so, it seems there would be alot more work involved, like the pedals a shifter a manual tranny ect...
Old 11-28-2004, 09:41 PM
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there is an inspection hole near the starter-use a flashlight and check for rubber dust / chunks.
Old 11-28-2004, 10:26 PM
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Peckster
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What do you mean the car will crank? Do you mean it starts and runs?
Old 11-29-2004, 12:50 AM
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AznDrgn
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I meant it would be easier in the sense that last time I checked new flex plates were pretty scarce and pretty expensive so a conversion would be a much easier and cheaper option.
Old 11-29-2004, 04:49 AM
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Legoland951
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A new damper plate will cost you 550 to 700 dollars. You can replace it with a clutch with pressure plate and leave it automatic. It comes out cheaper since you don't care how much friction material is left on the clutch since it will not slip. Heck, you won't even need a throw out bearing or clutch fork.
Old 11-29-2004, 09:06 AM
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You can replace it with a clutch with pressure plate and leave it automatic.
You can? That is quite interesting, if that is the case why did porsche bother putting anything there? Why didn't they just make a direct connection between the engine and the drive shaft?
Old 11-29-2004, 07:25 PM
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87Porsche944Guy
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Well thats probably just one thing that adds to all the other porsche performance features. But thanks guys i will go check to see if there is any rubber fragments. I'll update you guys as soon as i find out.
Old 11-29-2004, 11:25 PM
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Legoland951
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The rubber damper is like the stupid rubber center clutch. Its for vibration dampening. I personally rather have a worn out spring centered clutch with a pressure plate that I will never have to replace EVER in an automatic.
Old 12-01-2004, 01:14 AM
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You may not see anything as when mine went it just ripped the centre out, it did have a LOT more torque going through it. however when it went there was a loud knocking noise where the tangs of the centre were hitting the bolts.
On another note if you get under the rear of the car, and run the car up there is an inspection hole where you undo the rear coupler on the Torque Tube, located on the transaxle bellhousing you will be able to see if the drive shaft is rotating as it's a large hole.
On a personal note one of mine takes ages to start clicking through the gears and sticks in first untill it warms up, then is seems to overheat and loose drive compleatly, I suspect that the oil pump is weak and when the oil is cold it is unable to activate the selector as no even manual selection works, it overruns in 2 or D and when you pull it to 1 on decelleration it pulls the engine, but wont step up to 2 or D when accelerating (however I have found out that 65 mph is easilly obtainable in 1st.) once it overheats it takes a few minutes to cool down and all is well again, I suspect the oil thins out and the pump cannot generate enough pressure to work. In my expierience if the box on an auto is gone, it's far cheaper to change it for a second hand unit, it takes about an hour (air tools and a ramp/axle jack) and is very satisfing if your into instant gratification. However you may ahve a snapped torque tube the drive plate gone. I have made a plate for mine if it goes again I'm fixing the inner and outer assembly to it and it will be a solid coupling, at the time I know no better and did what ever it took to get it working again. I suspect that that is the bit that has gone and if you can locate a flywheel and clutch plate then thats the route to take, failing that cut a disk and mount the bits to it and your done. If it is thebox though, think about a replacement as even the cost of a rebuild kit makes it the beter option.
Old 12-01-2004, 02:03 AM
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IIRC I paid 750 for my Flex Disc 2 years ago. (the OEM lasted 15 years, and I'm very easy on my trans- NO track time, just commuter/ highway miles.) I may be swapping out the auto tranny in mine, I'd be willing to part with the whole damn thing. My left side CV would need to be rebuilt.


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