dualblade

this is on an 84 944. at the point of bellhousing removal and it seems like that bracket is holding it up. on my car i did take the bracket off and it seems like you'd have to but i thought i remembered a way to get things apart without removing the bracket. i'd rather not have to realign it when the car goes back together, but if i have to i will. thanks

Macfreak007

I took mine off and kept the bracket on, bracket shouldn't be holding it up, something else, you did take out the sensors didn't you?

KuHL 951

I removed the 2 allen bolts and removed mine. My clearances on the 83 are just too tight to wrestle that bellhousing around, I had to rotate mine 180 deg. just to get it off. The sensor housing would have prevented this on mine. If the sensor housing remains on there it will make realigning the bellhousing a bit harder due to the tight fit. Realigning the sensor shouldn't be a problem if you use the old imprint from the lock washer as a guide...Brad-Cam showed me this trick when we put his engine and trans back together last week.

83na944

I got the bellhousing off my 83 without removing the bracket.

I did loosen the bolts on the bottom of the motor mounts. Then jacked the engine up and moved it to the right. I pulled and pushed on it for at least a half an hour, then finally it got in just the right position and it practically fell off.

dualblade

thanks for the responses guys. it was actually the ground that was holding it up. i had removed the ground wire from the frame of the car, not realizing that multiple ground wires tie to that point. also, i didn't realize that the bellhousing was a bit of a struggle to get off. i had remembered mine coming off easier but the heater valve got in the way on this one. is there a way to relocate that valve so it's not placed above the clutch? i know if it ever leaks it can toast the clutch so now seems to be as good of a time as ever

Dave951M

I removed it. The sensors aren't hard to reset.

Perry 951

Andrew -

You can use a section of hose and some vac line to move the valve wherever you like. Mine is offset to the passenger side just a bit so it is not over the bellhousing hole. I have seen people put them at the front and rear of the coolant crossover (the pipe above the headers). The heat in that area may make the valve dry and crack faster, but to each his own.

Good to hear you got things worked out.

dualblade

actually, based on the bit of metal cable i see in the area, i don't think it's vacuum actuated. this is on an 84 and i thought only the 85.5+ would have the climate control with vacuum actuated heater control valve. it'd certainly make it easier if i was wrong though so if you know otherwise, let me know

KuHL 951

Andrew,
If you figure out a good way to reloacte the heater valve let me know. The short cable that pulls it would prevent moving to the passenger side and the drivers side is already pretty congested. I think I'll just change the hoses while I'm in there and hope for the best. At least with the sealant on the bellhousing it won't do any damage if it fails. I wonder if Porsche makes a plug for that rectangular TDC window? That would be the best insurance.

83na944

Yep, on the 84 you'll have to figure out a way to extend the control cable. You might try replacing the entire control cable with a longer cable. Or somehow splicing in another cable.

In the end I decided that to leave the HCV where it was. And this was after a failed hose caused me to replace the clutch.

Another problem with the design is that the clamps for the hoses that attach to the heater core are on the cabin side of the firewall. So you have to remove the dashboard to replace those hoses.

BTW, I have a new set of hoses that go through the firewall and a new HCV. If anyone is interested, I'll make you a deal.