Clutch Job on Turbo S
10-19-2004, 02:11 PM
#46
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My take on the flywheel is stay stock.
I am putting a stock flywheel back in my car, 2 reasons I want to do the job over the weekend and have a fresh resurfaced flywheel ready to go in and I don't really care for the fast decel in between shifts under boost. No problems at red lights or hills at all. Mine is a lightened stock flywheel along with lightened crank rods and pistons, so I will try adding a little weight back and see how it goes.
The cup disk will do fine for you.
I am putting a stock flywheel back in my car, 2 reasons I want to do the job over the weekend and have a fresh resurfaced flywheel ready to go in and I don't really care for the fast decel in between shifts under boost. No problems at red lights or hills at all. Mine is a lightened stock flywheel along with lightened crank rods and pistons, so I will try adding a little weight back and see how it goes.
The cup disk will do fine for you.
10-19-2004, 02:43 PM
#47
Three Wheelin'
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I concur with Floyd's flywheel thoughts. I lightened mine and although it is fun at a stop because it revs so darn fast, but the rev's drop way too fast off throttle and its a bit easier to stall off idle.
10-19-2004, 03:07 PM
#49
Burning Brakes
One other thing about the "organic" material. If you look up the cup car disc in a sachs catalog, it says "organic" lined. Also, I think Sachs refers to them as the Power Clutch.
10-19-2004, 03:11 PM
#50
Race Director
SFR is in the process of lightening my stock fly... down to 8lbs which is a good compromise I think... the Spec ally one is 5.5. So it should rev harder and not be the worst possible in terms of revs dropping.
10-19-2004, 03:22 PM
#51
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Run Delrin on the swaybars, a little better response and more importantly, immune to the inevitable oil and PS leaks.
Antiseize on the flywheel and pp bolts is correct.
In your case I'd go with a stock flywheel, don't waste money getting one lightened. If you want lighter, the Fidanza is under $320 shipped from all sorts of places - Paragon is the fluke!
CV bolts McMaster has a great Metric Blue that comes in a box of 25 or 50 (I forget), I'd recommend that.
Sam
Antiseize on the flywheel and pp bolts is correct.
In your case I'd go with a stock flywheel, don't waste money getting one lightened. If you want lighter, the Fidanza is under $320 shipped from all sorts of places - Paragon is the fluke!
CV bolts McMaster has a great Metric Blue that comes in a box of 25 or 50 (I forget), I'd recommend that.
Sam
10-19-2004, 04:46 PM
#52
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Sam, where to get the delrin bushings for the sways? Both carrier and drop link. That is my last hangup, other than wondering how many exhaust gaskets I need to get, which I can't figure out until I drop it.
Guess I will leave the flywheel as is. I have no data that tells me dropping 7 pounds is going to make life a lot easier and they (Porsche) must have picked that FW weight for a reason. Certainly some thought was to the great unwashed public that was going to drive the car, but I don't know how much that was.
Guess I will leave the flywheel as is. I have no data that tells me dropping 7 pounds is going to make life a lot easier and they (Porsche) must have picked that FW weight for a reason. Certainly some thought was to the great unwashed public that was going to drive the car, but I don't know how much that was.
10-19-2004, 05:40 PM
#54
Rennlist Member
If you decide delrin is what you want, instead of the stock rubber, Paragon sells the Racer's Edge full set for the front bar for around $125. Im sure you can also get them straight from Karl at Racer's Edge. If your sway bar is the stock TS 26.8mm bar, you will need to check if those parts are available for that, not the 30mm 968 M030 bar. And if this is not a track car, consider that the original rubber lasted 16 plus years.
The exhaust gaskets are hard to predict. Because they can be spendy, and as many times as I remove the exhaust system, I reuse mine unless they are crumbling. In the end, there is usually only one or two that will need to be replaced.
The exhaust gaskets are hard to predict. Because they can be spendy, and as many times as I remove the exhaust system, I reuse mine unless they are crumbling. In the end, there is usually only one or two that will need to be replaced.
