I agree, just remove the wastegate, the rest of the exhaust can stay in place.

$35 for a small tranny jack at Harbor Frieght, keeps you from getting squished.

I agree with removing the engine IF your car needs the other routine work, so much easier to work on an engine out of the car.

Mine, I only need to do the clutch ( everything is new ) even the clutch is new but slips

 

I reccomend everyone with a turbo get the Lindsey cross over pipe for $180. It makes life much easyer, combined with their $300 crossmember mod, I was able to pull my oil pan off in 45 minutes.

 

Yep, one of the best $500 we can spend on our cars. They even start to pay off when you reinstall everything, you can mount the turbo down-pipe and the top section of the crossover- pipe with the turbo on workbench !!!!!!!!!!

 

When Im talking about a 2 pc crossover pipe on 87+, Im not talking about a Lindsey part. The factory upgraded the crossover pipe sometime in 86 so there is a separate pipe and flange joint between the crossover pipe and wastegate. On the early 86 pipes, the waste gate bolted directly to the 1 pc crossover pipe. So on the early cars, you do have to remove the complete crossover to do a clutch job. On the later 87+ cars, you just remove the waste gate and the short section of pipe that goes between the WG and the crossover, then the crossover pipe can stay in place.

 

I understand, you guy's with the 1 piece factory cross-over, please do not reinstall that thing. The 2 piece factory pipe is an upgrade and the Lindsey cross-over for $180 is the best way to go. IMHO

 

David, I know that you understood what I was referring to. I was just making sure that others understand what I meant by 2 pc, and the differences between them and the early 86 part.

 

FWIW, a good local mechanic changed my clutch, installed new rear seal, and resurfaced the flywheel, all using OEM parts that I brought him, for 8-9 hours labor at $65/hr. He did this by dropping the exhaust and entire drive assembly aft of the engine, i.e., bell housing, shaft, and transaxle with rear wheels all as one unit, which he rolled out of the way. I wish I'd used the opportunity to clean up the transaxle and replace oil cooler O-rings, etc., and had pre-purchased one of Markus' rebuilt shift forks. My car is an '86 Turbo with two piece crossover pipe.

Consequently, I'm sold on this procedure and would never pay for 18-21 hours labor, which is what most shops charge. In other words, using this superior procedure, you save so much on labor that you can affort some nice equipment that might otherwise be cost prohibitive.

 

I recommend you find a shop of any sort and have the exhaust and crossmember but and welded there, shouldnt be more than a few bucks. You better believe this is what Lindsey does with them.
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Lots of helpful info showing up. Guess I better hold off until Monday on ordering parts so I can sort through everything, draw up the final battle plan, and make sure I have everything I need. Lance, that is really a nice writeup which really helps me plan things out. Thanks!

Magown, yeah, I've been thinking about the engine trick and have been wondering what I would be getting myself into. I also thought about the 930 disc (Sachs # 881861 615) but it says that it is an organic racing lining which has me a bit concerned how well it would work on regular street driving. Since you are using one how do you like it and for 90% street would you get that rather than the Cup disc? I assume you still use the same 951.116.023.01 Sachs pressure plate, right?

Oddjob, yeah, Carousel told me about the place. It is called S & B Manufacturing - I think it is a small couple man operation. On County Rd. 15 in Minnetonka, 952.473.1887. I talked to them on the phone and they seemed to know what I was trying to do.

iloveporsches, I've got everything done on the front of the motor after my nightmare which followed washing the engine bay out. I mean a real nightmare. The only thing I was going to do now was change out the motor mounts, though I think they are still good.

Now I have to crawl under the car and think about all this exhaust biz.

 

Iceshark,

I've pulled the motor in my turbo for a rebuild and I've done a clutch in my old N/A. To me its 6 or 1/2 dozen for the other. No real difference. I would let the number of oil leaks be your deciding factor. If you have a lot of pesky leaks in the motor like balance shaft rear plugs and oil pan I would just pull the motor and do them all at once. If your tranny is coated with a mist of oil like mine is now I would pull the tranny.

 

Got most of the parts ordered. Scored a Sachs Cup Clutch kit for $580 which was sort of surprising when I saw the price on the I-nut, but they said fine, that is the price.

I'm still not sure what to do about replacing the CVJ boots and repacking them as they aren't leaking and I have no issues noted with them other than the rubber boots being pretty hard.

A couple questions. Lance Mason says in his fine writeup that one should use anti-seize on the PP and FW bolts. Is this right? Or just screw them in dry or with Loctite blue?

I'll follow Danno's suggestion on the half axle flange to transaxle bolts and locktite blue. Are those things 8mm x 50mm or something a bit less long like 46mm? I believe I need 6 per joint. What grade are they, 8.8?

Final thing is replacing the rubber mounts on the front sway bar. Carrier and drop links to control arm. It is an '88 Turbo S so has the MO30 upgrade, but I'm pretty sure that is different from the 968 MO30 sway. Should I just get the factory rubber replacements (only $50 for all 4) or go with some sort of upgrade in stiffer material like Delrin or a fancy material? I don't want this stuff to squeek or transmit a harmonic vibration that will drive one nuts on the street.I would appreciate any comments and leads on upgrades, otherwise I will go with new stock rubber. The left hand side rubber is pretty bad given oil changes and an old leak in the power steering hose off the bottle.

Oh, and how few sections can I take the exhaust off if I'm doing this on the floor? Those exhaust gaskets cost like 25 or 35 bucks each at retail and you need about 6 if you take it in sections. A Prorsche mechanic was telling me that you can take the whole exhaust off in one piece but you probably need the car on a lift to get the angles right. If you are off the floor a couple feet you may not be able to tilt enough.

Thanks

 

I really like this idea. Seems so simple to do. Just a little planning on how you're gonna do it. Less wrenching under a damn car tho, thats for sure. Better to just leave everything bolted on. I hate going in and unwrenching **** and then it breaks....

 

Remove the wastegate and the 2 small pipes that attach to it, the rest can stay.

Blue Locktite on the cv bolts and anti-seize on the pp and flywheel bolts that's the way I do it.

I may try to find some 12.9 grade to replace the cv bolts.

I will be thinking about you Iceshark, this disk will be going in, maybe this weekend.

 

I guess my responce is a little late. I couldn't feel any difference between the cup disc or the 930 organic one. I drove with them back to back. Yes, you use the same pressure plate and throw out bearing.

 

Magown, I went with the Cup disc and UPS has the package somewhere so that is sort of cast in stone unless I want to undo the whole transaction. I don't have a monster motor like Floyd and need a puck disc. All I really want is for my clutch to work right and not have to play games double clutching and whatnot to drive the car. Lord, I just pray I haven't toasted the synchros or chewed up the gears.

Speaking of that, is there some sort of coffee maker type of filter media I can let the transaxle oil run through to catch any metal shavings? I want to see exactly if/how much wear and tear was done but 75/90 oil is pretty damn thick. I'd rather not just wait for everything to sort of settle out in a pan as that will take forever and be a mess decanting it a couple times.

Still waiting for any suggestions on the front sway bushings.

And regarding the flywheel and lightening that up. I'm not sure what I'm going to do on that after reading up as much as I could on the subject. It is a classic engineering tradeoff. If anyone wants a Fidanza aluminum flywheel I found them for $359. Must be a pricing fluke as it is a ricer outfit and they probably do huge volume, get massive discounts and cut margins to the bone. That price is probably cheaper than our friends at Paragon (they charge $625 for one) can get the part. Drop me a note and I'll tell you where to get them. Anyway, I'm now thinking I'll just shave down the stock FW to around 8 to 10 lbs. From the back. Anyone have comments on this and what the target should be? I don't want my motor to die at a stop light on an upward hill or lose too much of the turbo spin rate on shifts. Or have the motor guts shaking themselves apart.

No one can say I haven't researched this project to death.