Matt H

Excellent advise Tom!
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chitown928s4

sounds like some of the symptoms i had when my fuel pressure regulator went bad...id change that sucker out and see if it helps....

cambria

I would also suspect the DME. I had a 1983 n/a and had a simular problem and the Porsche dealer could not find the problem. After keepping a log of the stalls, the dealer reccommended that the DME be replaced and the factory agreed. The DME was replaced and no more problems and as of this date the car is still going. A resolder may be in order.

AlexE

With all do respect pologuy.

You are way over your head.

In reading this post it does point towards a fuel pressure related problem. Unfortunately there is no way I can talk you into getting a fuel pressure guage on this car or even to try to work through any troubleshooting ideas if all you have to work with is your hammer.

Your best hope is to tow it back to the garage and leave it there.

The last thing you want to do is start throwing parts at this problem. That is a waste of time and $$$$

Take care.

Chris_924s

I suspect 2 problems are occurring- 1- Fuel delivery 2- Ignition/ Grounds.

Sometimes a good wrench is well worth the expenditure in cash AND release of frustration. They may also locate other potential issues for you as well.

If you have the time to play with it- do. FPR replacement, DME resolder is cheap, so is cleaning all the grounds. Heed the advice and do some proper diagnostics and document what you did and any changes then test. repeat the process every step until the issue is resolved.
It is worthwhile and admirable to admit you over your ski's.....relinquishing your determination for paying a pro is hard.

Matt H

Since it keeps coming up has ANYONE EVER resoldered a post 85 (i.e. 85.5+) DME? To the best of my knowledge that is a problem that effects ONLY the early cars.

Alex - I agree 100%
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Chris_924s

Yes I have Matt- only as a precaution tho.(Warding off evil spirits.. LOL) I'm thinking that when the rev level changed they used a different PCB (Possibly FR-4?) which is more stable under heat/ cold/ moisture cycles. This is only a guess as the PCB color does not always indicate change in fiberglass substrate.

I cant remember- do the later DME's have a rubber or foam seal? It's been a while since I opened a 88 944 and later DME.

Interesting question Matt.

Red1

This right here tells me somethings not right with the speed/reference sensors. I had a no-start issue, where the tach needle did not move when cranking. Replaced the speed/reference sensors, and bingo. Started right up. Been running fine ever since.

Matt H

Brian, could be but my concern is that the car will start/run/drive then it wont. If it sits then it starts right up. If it was similar to James' problem then it should run fine until the sensors are jarred. It is possible but I just dont see it in this case. Who knows, the poster does not have the tools to check.
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Red1

Yeah, or it could be more than one thing.

But I definitely would be suspect of the speed/reference sensors. You know how odd these cars run/don't run when they develop issues with those sensors. It's possible his are original. They do tend to get funky with age.

Matt H

Yeah, no tach bounce does sort of point to multiple problems. Easy enough to check, look for fuel and spark and go from there.
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pologuy

OK guys,

What exactly do you mean by "bounce"? When I try to start the car when its turning over but not starting, the tach does move ever so slightly, but not what I would call a "bounce". Maybe we are talking about the same thing......

Uranium-235

Really sounds like a fuel filter or delivery problem...the revving to higher RPM's, then cutting out could be because the fuel supply can't keep up with demand. Is there an in-tank screen? Have you checked for kinked hoses? Sometimes, hoses can deteriorate internally without external damage.

Steve in New Hampshire

I second the fuel presure regulator. I had very similar symptoms. What happened with mine is it would on occasion let the presure spike...and flood the engine. I'd wait 15 minutes or so for the fuel to leak down into the crankcase and it would start again to start the whole cycle again.

Red1

I'm talking the tach needle didn't move at all. Like it was glued in place. If it's moving when you turn the key, it might not be your problem. They're expensive, so like others have said, just throwing parts at the car is going to get very costly very quickly.

Since you're not equipped to work on this car (hammers are for experts only), I'd suggest finding a good shop. Dunno if the guy you took it to already was a Porsche specialist, but you would be best served finding someone who's worked on 944's before.

Good luck.