I recently tried to remove my cam gear and in doing so, I stripped the 12 point bolt that held the cam gear to the camshaft (It did not have a deep head so my bit was a little wobbly). I was able to take it to a machine shop and they were able to remove it. Now I really do not want to buy the same bolt and have the same problem. My question is what bolt do I need; instead of triple square maybe allen?

Would this one work?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...721401#fitment

Thanks for your help
Austin

 

Thats a cam housing bolt. How about some pics. There is a clutch chatter thread near and I discussed tools and tricks toward the end of it. I would be more than happy to help Ill be in and out of the shop post a pic Im curious what you have going on.

 

Nine times out of ten that bolt strips. It’s not a big deal to drill the head off yourself. Do a search for the drill bit size and type to use. The good thing is don’t have to remove that bolt very often.

 

lol duh I see it now. This is the one I'm talking about - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...68-06943015001

I don't have a picture of the stripped bolt because my cam housing is still at the shop along with my head. But just imagine that one but kinda circular in the middle lol

 

I

 

Is that what you are talking about. When you say bolt!

 

not exactly the same cam gear but yes that center bolt

 

Not sure of how you you tried to remove the camshaft bolt. My process takes two people, one to hold and secure the 32mm box end wrench and the second person to first tap the camshaft bolt to "wake" it up and then use one hand in compression holding the cheese head socket and extension perpendicular to bolt with as much force as possible while the other person holding the box wrench turns the breaker bar.
Purchase a Porsche cheese,head bolt for the camshaft.

 

you gotta tap the tool into the bolt head to make sure it seats.
if the bolt is clean and tool is seated you won't strip it.

a 12-point "cheesehead" will take more torque than an equivalent size allen head - that's why it was used.

 

I had it removed and the 32mm wrench resting on the ground. The head of the bolt is pretty shallow and my driver was pretty long I apparently didn't have it straight and when I went to turn it, it did not turn but just stripped.

 

The best friend and helper for removal of this bolt is a 1/2" impact gun.
If you are limited to hand tools and for installation and torquing of the new bolt (should use a new bolt from Porsche), the key is to have a (short) driver that is close to the bolt head to maintain an axial alignment.

 

Yeah hindsight is 20/20 so I will return my long bits and get shorter triple squares.

 

I was going to comment this morning but running behind to look at a car so I had to scoot. Tool quality is important as I mentioned in the clutch thread. By the way you and Perry if I remember who is North of Pagosa ought to connect. If you feel you need to order something online like a set then do it. If you read I mentioned a trick to fill fit issues with valve grind compound. I would be more than happy explain if interested. Its not a answer all but in certain situations its the answer. Good luck and keep us posted.
Ill ask a ? for the crew is that bolt suppose to have lock tight on it. I dont have any authentic data or documents in front of to answer.

 

would these be better?

I just returned the ones that I stripped them with. The long ones are not ideal.

 

I haven't had the misfortune of stripping this bolt, but I had a lot better success with something like this rather than what you've been trying. It fits in a hex socket, but more importantly it's harder steel and you can hammer it into the bolt readily. Works great for CV bolts

(I'm reasonably sure these will fit?)