project 924- we have a problem w/ CIS
#1
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ok, so i finally go the bursch header on, what a bia#ch, and hooked up the starter, alternator and most of the exhaust. Now the thing wont fire up. It will crank and crank, fast enough when the battery is up. I have spark on every cylinder, weak because it is just cranking but spark. The pump is priming, and the injectors have all been cleaned. I cant get the injectors to spray when out of the head and spraying into a cup, not really anything at all, but i dont know if they will without it starting. I checked all the starter / alternator connections. Double checked tdc and firing order. Cleaned all plugs. New injector seals.
I do know that we adjusted the CO to run right w/ the manifold broken off on all but one runner, is this the reason it wont run.
I do know that we adjusted the CO to run right w/ the manifold broken off on all but one runner, is this the reason it wont run.
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#2
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Did you replace the cam belt? There are two marks on the back of the cam pulley, make sure to line it up to the bigger indentation.
If you can't get the injectors to spray out of the head while pushing up on the metering plate, then you don't have enough fuel pressure. Pull out the fuel pump relay on the relay board, and jumper the #30 and the #87 terminals to a switch. Have a friend turn on the fuel pump while you test if the injector sprays. If it doesn't, then you'll most likely need a new fuel pump. It is a good idea to buy a CIS tester with one of these cars, but they are fairly pricey ($100 or so).
Adjusting the CO to the right shouldn't cause it to not start, adjusting it to the left might.
Good luck.
If you can't get the injectors to spray out of the head while pushing up on the metering plate, then you don't have enough fuel pressure. Pull out the fuel pump relay on the relay board, and jumper the #30 and the #87 terminals to a switch. Have a friend turn on the fuel pump while you test if the injector sprays. If it doesn't, then you'll most likely need a new fuel pump. It is a good idea to buy a CIS tester with one of these cars, but they are fairly pricey ($100 or so).
Adjusting the CO to the right shouldn't cause it to not start, adjusting it to the left might.
Good luck.
#3
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new pumps- both, tested injectors.
adjusted co to right to fix idle before.....hm, me thinks maybe the plugs are cooked although i cleaned them...i will check. Tomorrow.
adjusted co to right to fix idle before.....hm, me thinks maybe the plugs are cooked although i cleaned them...i will check. Tomorrow.
#5
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Cold Start Valve is almost useless unless it's REALLY cold. Buy some starting fluid, see if it will sputter with it, if not, the problem is not fuel related most likely.
#7
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Dmitry has the right idea... see if starting fluid or a beer cap full of gas in the cylinder won't cause it to momentarily run. If it doesn't you know that there is an electrical problem... no spark getting to the cylinders.
And while you're at it, throw a shopvac in the engine bay (i'm just busting your *****)
I like the sig... what color code was poopy brown for those years?
And while you're at it, throw a shopvac in the engine bay (i'm just busting your *****)
I like the sig... what color code was poopy brown for those years?
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#8
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mine was doing that once. turned out my distrubitor cap was on updie down and the plugs were firing in the wrong order. I checked to see if i had spark and i did but what i failed to realise was that the wrong ones were sparking at the wrong times. one of those stupid little things i wish i could just forget i ever actually did.
#9
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the bad thing is i pulled the car in under itsown power and put the header on and now i have no start!!!! i think maybe the plugsare drowned and ill put some new ones in today.
ive tried starting fluid alot and nothing. I pulled each wire off individually and all have spark.
oh, and that is an old pic, she has no leaves now.
ive tried starting fluid alot and nothing. I pulled each wire off individually and all have spark.
oh, and that is an old pic, she has no leaves now.
#10
Cleveland Rocks
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As was said before, it definitely sounds electrical, or it should try to fire with the starting fluid. It wasn't on a 924, but I did have a car that wouldn't run on starting fluid once that was getting visible spark, but it turned out that the ignition coil was bad after testing it. Seemed the "quality" of the spark wasn't enough to jump across the plug gap. Maybe try testing/changing out a coil?
#12
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I'm not familiar with 924 fuel metering, but if it's similar to old VW CIS with mechanical air flow metering fuel, you'll need to manually hold the flow meter open and crank to prime the system.
Sam
Sam