H3-100W Bulbs in Stock Fog Light Housings?
03-18-2004, 05:13 PM
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Three Wheelin'
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H3-100W Bulbs in Stock Fog Light Housings?
Buying a replacement bulb for my fog light yesterday at Pep Boys and noticed the H3-100W bulb right next to the H3-55W bulb I bought could eassily be mde to fit into our stock fog light housings.
I am wondering if Iceshark or someone else has done this? It would appear that all you have to do is cut or grind off a tiny metal tab and it would fit right in. Our lenses are glass so I assume the extra heat generated wouldn't be an issue. How about heat on the plastic part of the housing or the wiring? Anyone tried this?
I am wondering if Iceshark or someone else has done this? It would appear that all you have to do is cut or grind off a tiny metal tab and it would fit right in. Our lenses are glass so I assume the extra heat generated wouldn't be an issue. How about heat on the plastic part of the housing or the wiring? Anyone tried this?
03-18-2004, 05:49 PM
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um yeah...I put some 85 watt Piaa's in my fogs once....Everything ran so hot that my fuses began to melt.....
SO i went back to the 35 watt ones....But the 85 watt ones were alot brighter.....If you did want to run a higher wattage bulb than you need some thicker wire that can handle the draw...
DAmian
SO i went back to the 35 watt ones....But the 85 watt ones were alot brighter.....If you did want to run a higher wattage bulb than you need some thicker wire that can handle the draw...DAmian
03-18-2004, 06:16 PM
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No, I'm not especially keen on super bright fogs, I just noticed these bulbs and wondered if they would work without adverse impact. My thought was that the wiring was more likely to be an issue than the housings, though I knew it could be either/both.
Incidentally Damian, I notice in your signature that you did the Snubnose Mod. I have thought about doing mine on and off. To me there is no question it improves the look of the NA. Do you have any advice on doing it? Was it as simple as it seems? I also wondered about a shorter shock (from another type of car - adapted) to accomplish the same thing and not entirely lose the "bumper" function, albeit it would be reduced.
Incidentally Damian, I notice in your signature that you did the Snubnose Mod. I have thought about doing mine on and off. To me there is no question it improves the look of the NA. Do you have any advice on doing it? Was it as simple as it seems? I also wondered about a shorter shock (from another type of car - adapted) to accomplish the same thing and not entirely lose the "bumper" function, albeit it would be reduced.
03-18-2004, 06:42 PM
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Dan, I have never tried that (100 watters) in an early NA fog so can't really tell you if you will cause a disaster.
I do run 100 watt in my combo euro driving/fog light on the driving light side in a Turbo S and it is no problem. I have heavy wiring, etc. Which you better consider as the heat soak back from a BLASTER halogen bulb like that is going to be considerable. If you rewire the car that is going to be throwing out light like the best HID available. Probably better, actually.
But this misses the whole point on fogs. Those are wide, low beams to get under the fog. If they are really going to be used as fogs, if you go and run 100 watt in them you will get so much back scatter of light off the fog water droplets that it will kill your night vision. Not what you want to do.
But if you would like to experiment, I have some German Philips 100 watt H3s sitting on my shelf that you can test out. The real deal, best in the world, not some PIAA marketing scheme. $7 each plus about $3.50 for the shipping and package, unless you are ordering a ton of them.
I do run 100 watt in my combo euro driving/fog light on the driving light side in a Turbo S and it is no problem. I have heavy wiring, etc. Which you better consider as the heat soak back from a BLASTER halogen bulb like that is going to be considerable. If you rewire the car that is going to be throwing out light like the best HID available. Probably better, actually.
But this misses the whole point on fogs. Those are wide, low beams to get under the fog. If they are really going to be used as fogs, if you go and run 100 watt in them you will get so much back scatter of light off the fog water droplets that it will kill your night vision. Not what you want to do.
But if you would like to experiment, I have some German Philips 100 watt H3s sitting on my shelf that you can test out. The real deal, best in the world, not some PIAA marketing scheme. $7 each plus about $3.50 for the shipping and package, unless you are ordering a ton of them.
03-18-2004, 06:47 PM
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well the dash cover, my 968 RST Spoiler and some other new stuff is just sitting in my basement for now until I take the car out of storage towards the end of April.....Until then I can just say that the dash cover looks nice...
And for the front snub nose....Well do it..It was not that difficult to do..Only thing is you have to fill in the rivet holes after you grind them off.( hopefully with a weld and not Bondo..... And the front bumpers are alluminum so some extra welding care needs to be taken...Also after you grind off the rivets and fill the holes, it would also be a good idea to reinforce the bumper supports that are part of the bumper ( not the actuall shocks...) with some welding also... And if you were to try and use some shorter bumper shocks instead of drilling and compressing the stock ones.....I would not even know where to begin looking for those....I would just drill out the stock ones..You don't plan on hitting anything anytime soon anyways..Do you..????? Hope this helps if not....Ask away..
DAmian
And for the front snub nose....Well do it..It was not that difficult to do..Only thing is you have to fill in the rivet holes after you grind them off.( hopefully with a weld and not Bondo..... And the front bumpers are alluminum so some extra welding care needs to be taken...Also after you grind off the rivets and fill the holes, it would also be a good idea to reinforce the bumper supports that are part of the bumper ( not the actuall shocks...) with some welding also... And if you were to try and use some shorter bumper shocks instead of drilling and compressing the stock ones.....I would not even know where to begin looking for those....I would just drill out the stock ones..You don't plan on hitting anything anytime soon anyways..Do you..????? Hope this helps if not....Ask away..
DAmian
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03-18-2004, 07:26 PM
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I've been using Icesharks 100w H3s for almost 2 years and have had no problem. I've only hit heavy fog once but running fogs only without the headlights they really worked great compared to how I could see with the headlights. 65mph with fogs vs. 50 or so with headlights that night.
My main use for the fogs is as DRLs in the evening when I don't want to pop the headlights yet, and rainy poor visibility days, but I'm not one of those people that leaves the fogs on all the time the headlights are on.
My main use for the fogs is as DRLs in the evening when I don't want to pop the headlights yet, and rainy poor visibility days, but I'm not one of those people that leaves the fogs on all the time the headlights are on.
03-18-2004, 07:29 PM
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Thanks Dan (Iceshark), I was only idly inquiring. Not a lot of fog in California...ever, but on those few mornings we have it I generally drive the Ram 4x4!
Damian, I'm a little unsure what "rivets" you are referring to? I have not looked under there but I was under the impression (mistaken?) that you can drill in one of several locations in the bumper shock to accomplish the same goal -letting the pressurized oil out to facilitate compressing the bumper. Why would this small hole (1/8"?) need filling in any substantive way like welding? Why would I need to reinforce the bumper with further welding? I assume you mean spot welding the bumper so it could not move "in and out" without notice. Is that what you mean?
Damian, I'm a little unsure what "rivets" you are referring to? I have not looked under there but I was under the impression (mistaken?) that you can drill in one of several locations in the bumper shock to accomplish the same goal -letting the pressurized oil out to facilitate compressing the bumper. Why would this small hole (1/8"?) need filling in any substantive way like welding? Why would I need to reinforce the bumper with further welding? I assume you mean spot welding the bumper so it could not move "in and out" without notice. Is that what you mean?
03-18-2004, 08:57 PM
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No, hmmm I can see how I might of confused you..., you drill out the shock's to release the pressure...These holes in the shocks stay...
Now when you remove your Front bumper pads you will see the rivets that must be grinded off, thus leaving holes behind, that need to be welded up or filled, unless you just want to leave them on..might look funny though....
Also the front bumper has a support bracket both welded and riveted to the bumper..THis support bracket is what the shocks attach to...And you see once you remove the rivets behind the bumper pads, you may lose some strength as far as the support bracket being attached to the bumper..which the shock attaches to....Make sense...?
So the bumper shock attaches to the support bracket, and the support bracket attaches to the bumper....And the support bracket is attached with some rivets which you will remove, and some slight factory welds...
Yes NO...Make sense.....Hope this helps..
DAmian
Now when you remove your Front bumper pads you will see the rivets that must be grinded off, thus leaving holes behind, that need to be welded up or filled, unless you just want to leave them on..might look funny though....
Also the front bumper has a support bracket both welded and riveted to the bumper..THis support bracket is what the shocks attach to...And you see once you remove the rivets behind the bumper pads, you may lose some strength as far as the support bracket being attached to the bumper..which the shock attaches to....Make sense...?
So the bumper shock attaches to the support bracket, and the support bracket attaches to the bumper....And the support bracket is attached with some rivets which you will remove, and some slight factory welds...
Yes NO...Make sense.....Hope this helps..
DAmian
03-18-2004, 10:56 PM
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Oh, and I don't know about yours, but the bases are all metal on the bulbs I have (no plastic to melt). The part on the back of the lens is (I believe) also metal and the lens itself is glass so I think it should be all right. I've been running them for about a month (very limited / intermittent use though) so I'll check them and let you know if I see any deterioration or discoloring.
03-19-2004, 12:45 PM
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Damian,
Yes, I get it now. I hadn't thought about removing the bumper pads. Reason - I saw at Pomona (about monthly HUGE car show/swap meet out here) a car with the bumper pressed in but the pads hadn't been removed. It looked good, but then the car was black and so the pads didn't show much. Mine would. Your answer was clear, sort of a "the-footbone's-connected-to-the-kneebone, kind of explanation!
Yes, I get it now. I hadn't thought about removing the bumper pads. Reason - I saw at Pomona (about monthly HUGE car show/swap meet out here) a car with the bumper pressed in but the pads hadn't been removed. It looked good, but then the car was black and so the pads didn't show much. Mine would. Your answer was clear, sort of a "the-footbone's-connected-to-the-kneebone, kind of explanation!
03-22-2004, 07:05 PM
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I did exactly what you are suggesting. I did a full light package upgrade with harness and ground strap replacement from Iceshark (very happy btw). I replaced my old pitted fogs with new ones (standard Hella (TN20 ?)) from PartsHeaven. Then I put on 8 mm 3M film to protect those lamps and the new headlights from IceShark.
What I found was the 100W are so hot they burned off the coating on the inside of the inner reflector to a black flake. The light intensity is very good and very directional. Other than the flake and some loss of internal reflection they are fine. The internal heat was probably increased by the anti-rockchip 3M protective film. The left bulb still took a direct hit from a rock at some point in last 6 month and now has a vertical crack top to bottom but glass is at least clear. At least I _think_ it was a rock hit. IT may have been the bulb heat and the film (warning on label says not for lamps over 60W) combining to crack the galss... right side one is fine.
I left them on as daily drivers until I burned them out at about 75H each. Iceshark reminded me this was to be expected. I replaced them with 100W again and now only use them in fog and rain.
What I found was the 100W are so hot they burned off the coating on the inside of the inner reflector to a black flake. The light intensity is very good and very directional. Other than the flake and some loss of internal reflection they are fine. The internal heat was probably increased by the anti-rockchip 3M protective film. The left bulb still took a direct hit from a rock at some point in last 6 month and now has a vertical crack top to bottom but glass is at least clear. At least I _think_ it was a rock hit. IT may have been the bulb heat and the film (warning on label says not for lamps over 60W) combining to crack the galss... right side one is fine.
I left them on as daily drivers until I burned them out at about 75H each. Iceshark reminded me this was to be expected. I replaced them with 100W again and now only use them in fog and rain.
