1.8T engine swap
#16
225mm clutch disc won't hold much power and custom discs won't cost that much. I have Sachs race engineering 240m disc with suitable center part (National clutch UK made it for me) and it works very well with Audi RS4 B5 pressure plate and Howe T5 throwout bearing. It has even SAC mechanism which adjusts pressure plate when disc gets older and thinner. Clutchmasters have plug and play parts for this project but it's a bit pricey. Many ways to go but I'm happy with my setup.
This is how I managed to squeeze 3" downpipe in the engine bay. I had MWR style exhaust manifold but I wasn't happy with it. Collector is too far away from the turbo so the hot spot where all the exhaust pulses collects is in wrong place. Ideally you would like to get that spot near turbine housing. In dyno I saw that 4-1 part of the manifold was glowing red and further away closer to the turbo it wasn't.
This is how I managed to squeeze 3" downpipe in the engine bay. I had MWR style exhaust manifold but I wasn't happy with it. Collector is too far away from the turbo so the hot spot where all the exhaust pulses collects is in wrong place. Ideally you would like to get that spot near turbine housing. In dyno I saw that 4-1 part of the manifold was glowing red and further away closer to the turbo it wasn't.
Last edited by sledgehammer; 04-12-2020 at 05:04 AM.
The following users liked this post:
J1NX3D (04-13-2020)
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
225mm clutch disc won't hold much power and custom discs won't cost that much. I have Sachs race engineering 240m disc with suitable center part (National clutch UK made it for me) and it works very well with Audi RS4 B5 pressure plate and Howe T5 throwout bearing. It has even SAC mechanism which adjusts pressure plate when disc gets older and thinner. Clutchmasters have plug and play parts for this project but it's a bit pricey. Many ways to go but I'm happy with my setup.
This is how I managed to squeeze 3" downpipe in the engine bay. I had MWR style exhaust manifold but I wasn't happy with it. Collector is too far away from the turbo so the hot spot where all the exhaust pulses collects is in wrong place. Ideally you would like to get that spot near turbine housing. In dyno I saw that 4-1 part of the manifold was glowing red and further away closer to the turbo it wasn't.
This is how I managed to squeeze 3" downpipe in the engine bay. I had MWR style exhaust manifold but I wasn't happy with it. Collector is too far away from the turbo so the hot spot where all the exhaust pulses collects is in wrong place. Ideally you would like to get that spot near turbine housing. In dyno I saw that 4-1 part of the manifold was glowing red and further away closer to the turbo it wasn't.
#19
Rennlist Member
I heard that the VW / AUDI engine swaps are sometimes complicated by the requirement of something in the donor instrument cluster... part of the integrated security security system. Can you share information relating to this? (What I was told was you need the key and ecm and instrument cluster to communicate happily or something like this).
Many 1.8 T engines are plagued with problems. I overhauled one that wouldn't start & was thoroughly impressed with the casting of the 5 valve head, but when researching the engine, it was clear it can fail in several ways.
Many 1.8 T engines are plagued with problems. I overhauled one that wouldn't start & was thoroughly impressed with the casting of the 5 valve head, but when researching the engine, it was clear it can fail in several ways.
#20
^^ that exhaust is beautiful!
i bet that was a lot of work and head scratching.
i bet that was a lot of work and head scratching.
I heard that the VW / AUDI engine swaps are sometimes complicated by the requirement of something in the donor instrument cluster... part of the integrated security security system. Can you share information relating to this? (What I was told was you need the key and ecm and instrument cluster to communicate happily or something like this).
Many 1.8 T engines are plagued with problems. I overhauled one that wouldn't start & was thoroughly impressed with the casting of the 5 valve head, but when researching the engine, it was clear it can fail in several ways.
Many 1.8 T engines are plagued with problems. I overhauled one that wouldn't start & was thoroughly impressed with the casting of the 5 valve head, but when researching the engine, it was clear it can fail in several ways.
#21
Race Car
Sledgehammer, please pat yourself on the back for an excellent job. Can we see the intake manifold please.
Tempest, My Audi 2.0 turbo has about 200 000 miles and works perfect/no burning oil, its been good after I replaced the accelerator pedal & throttle body. The gas pedal is the same as an R8 (sorry, that never gets old for me)!
Tempest, My Audi 2.0 turbo has about 200 000 miles and works perfect/no burning oil, its been good after I replaced the accelerator pedal & throttle body. The gas pedal is the same as an R8 (sorry, that never gets old for me)!
#22
Apologies for terrible seams This was my first try to weld alloy The whole intake is still first prototype and looks like that too... Basically it is AEB intake with shorter runners and custom plenum. Throttle body is from boxster. At some point I'm going to make it again and probably with same recipe. There really is lack of space and nothing fits well. I had grams/skunk2 intake but it didn't fit at all.
This could be quite good. If it doesn't fit, cut runners until it'll do.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Ansaugbrucke...43b7bbc57cae47
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J1NX3D (04-13-2020)
#23
Race Car
Sledge,
Yeah I see you did the best you could with the booster. I like it. Aluminum is finicky to weld, it seems like no two aluminums weld the same & cleanliness is paramount. Where did you get the piece the runners attach to (the "trumpets" in second photo)?
Yeah I see you did the best you could with the booster. I like it. Aluminum is finicky to weld, it seems like no two aluminums weld the same & cleanliness is paramount. Where did you get the piece the runners attach to (the "trumpets" in second photo)?
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
That's the inside of the cast VW intake manifold.
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'd really like to utilize the factory water pump and thermostat... so I spent some time working on it today. I made a prototype for an adapter that should give me enough clearance for a manual rack steering shaft - power steering rack shaft is an unknown right now (maybe I can test fit one in tomorrow.
I'd like to see what other people have done for water pumps.
Anyhow, here's little video showing my design and 3D printing process to test my prototype:
I'd like to see what other people have done for water pumps.
Anyhow, here's little video showing my design and 3D printing process to test my prototype:
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dlearl476 (08-24-2021)
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dlearl476 (08-24-2021)
#27
I have pierburg CWA400 with tiny PVM-controller. https://tecomotive.com/store/en/bund...mp-tinycwa-kit.
With that pump I've had zero problems with overheating. Radiator fans are almost useless because usually I don't need them at all.
With that pump I've had zero problems with overheating. Radiator fans are almost useless because usually I don't need them at all.
The following 2 users liked this post by Van:
Dan Martinic (04-22-2020),
V2Rocket (04-18-2020)
#29
Three Wheelin'
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yes, I think shortening the runners isn't ideal... but it was better to shorten all of them rather than cut it at an angle so they were different lengths. In a perfect world, you could put S bends in them (like a 951). Longer runners give you more mid-range torque/power (that's why some cars have dual-length intake plenums with an actuator to direct air flow). But it shouldn't hurt the top-end power much (if actually helping it), and, since this is a race car, I'm not in the slightest bit worried about changing the runner length.