V2Rocket

Van or other 1.8ers...I would be interested in paying for a design/template of the bellhousing adapter plate if you're willing to share.
You've done the hard part of measuring/cutting/drilling and I'd be happy to throw some project bucks your way to have access to the adapter design.

Tiger03447

Great work, Van..what kind of TIG unit are you using? asking for a friend..LOL!

Van

I don't think my adapter plate design would do you much good without my flywheel design and engine mount designs - they all go hand-in-hand to put the engine in the spot I want. Once I have everything finished, you could buy all 4 parts.


I have a Miller Synchrowave 210 - I'm super happy with it and it does a great job. It only has a very few adjustments, but that means you can focus on your technique.

Nowanker

Nice work!

V2Rocket

curious to see the oil pan solution here as the longitudinal pans appear to be front sump and transverse pans are just...all-sump.

sledgehammer

There won't be any Pn'P solutions available. If you cut stock pan to get it fitted, it will be too small. Tried that too. Baffle plate is missing from the picture but there is now one. Now there's the oil return line fitting too. Oil pick up has to be modified too but that's a simple job. When fabricating oil return it would be good idea to design it so that the oil won't go in the line when braking hard. Oil capacity with large VAG-filter and oil cooler is now around 6L

V2Rocket

by too small....whats the capacity with the front cut out and no side kick out? 4L?

sledgehammer

Maybe 3,5L or less. You will have to cut/modify splash guard too and then you have a problem if the oil level is too high. In braking all the oil goes in the front of the engine and if there isn't room for that it will end up in the cylinder walls. Not good. The front axle area is problematic in many ways. Now I have deep sump with baffles that prevent oil getting packed in the front of the engine. Seems to work well. As I wrote earlier there are many ways to overcome these problems and this is just how I did it. Not necessarily the best way but I've been driving over 15.000km with this setup and everything seems to work ok. Now I can fill it to the upper limit of the oil stick and it all stays in there. With the smaller pan it didn't work like that. The strange shape of the pan is because I wanted to get it out without removing front axle. Now I can jack up other side of the engine and then get it out. It's still very tight but it can be done.

Van

Here's a detailed video on my oil pan modifications, which are two-fold: making clearance for the subframe, and adding an extension box to get volume back.

Noahs944

Beautiful engineering on that mount Van. Thanks for sharing the source of builder.

uniquenamehere

Sorry for the tread bump, Van have you made any more progress on this swap?