Intellectually challenged and reindexing rear torsion bars
#16
if you do get new rubber bushings, I find it easier to install them on the plate if you shave a 45 degree relief for the weld on the spring plate. it keeps the rubber from pooching out on the welds when you glue them on.
(a multi-master tool similar to what is used to cut out windshields or remove plaster casts works fabulous)
early vw bars, the short ones, are 25mm. they pack some preload punch when you get them past the lower stop.
(a multi-master tool similar to what is used to cut out windshields or remove plaster casts works fabulous)
early vw bars, the short ones, are 25mm. they pack some preload punch when you get them past the lower stop.
#17
Curious has anyone fitted the Rennline adjustable spring plates?
Seems like they would make the rear height adjustment job with torsion bars a lot easier.
Edit: btw someone is selling a set of NIB Elephant Racing poly bronze spring plate bushes on eBay for $200 with free shipping. That’s a great deal! (No affiliation).
Seems like they would make the rear height adjustment job with torsion bars a lot easier.
Edit: btw someone is selling a set of NIB Elephant Racing poly bronze spring plate bushes on eBay for $200 with free shipping. That’s a great deal! (No affiliation).
#19
Sorry, I had a brain fart while posting earlier and didn't realize you were just lowering/raising the bars that are already installed.
My posts were referring to upgrading the bars to larger stiffer ones so there's math involved. If you're just changing ride height yes just slide out adjust and slide in.
My posts were referring to upgrading the bars to larger stiffer ones so there's math involved. If you're just changing ride height yes just slide out adjust and slide in.
set the car level on jackstands using the door sill as a guide. Shoot for 14 degrees from horizontal both sides being equal. each offset is 0.8 degrees....ie opposite index of one on both splined ends. imho.... your goal of a 2.5" drop might be good for asthetics but your handling will be compromised. once you hit the bump stop, there is no travel which can produce undesirable results
I guess I'll find out. I might be putting the cart before the horse as I started with the front. The coil-overs still have plenty of room to change the front before the horse. Hate when I do this.
I was surprised that I remembered the name! You know those fancy-*** App. Sci people....
Tis but a scratch! These access ports are common on the 914s and early 911s plus this is a track car (see my avatar). I plan to cover the holes with club stickers or wheel centre bits as I made correct sized holes.
if you do get new rubber bushings, I find it easier to install them on the plate if you shave a 45 degree relief for the weld on the spring plate. it keeps the rubber from pooching out on the welds when you glue them on (a multi-master tool similar to what is used to cut out windshields or remove plaster casts works fabulous) early vw bars, the short ones, are 25mm. they pack some preload punch when you get them past the lower stop.
Curious has anyone fitted the Rennline adjustable spring plates? Seems like they would make the rear height adjustment job with torsion bars a lot easier.
Edit: btw someone is selling a set of NIB Elephant Racing poly bronze spring plate bushes on eBay
Edit: btw someone is selling a set of NIB Elephant Racing poly bronze spring plate bushes on eBay
Winter has returned to my part of the world so this project will have to wait a few days. Even then, it won't be 8 hour days but I will report back.
Thank you all again.
#20
I agree that if you are going back with the same torsion bars, you should just be able to drop everything your desired amount and re-insert the bars.
But. If you've never had the bars out, it may be quite challanging to get them out that first time. If you drop the whole rear assembly, you will have the access you need but in place, I don't know. YRMV.
But. If you've never had the bars out, it may be quite challanging to get them out that first time. If you drop the whole rear assembly, you will have the access you need but in place, I don't know. YRMV.
The following users liked this post:
curtisr (02-06-2020)
#21
I agree that if you are going back with the same torsion bars, you should just be able to drop everything your desired amount and re-insert the bars.
But. If you've never had the bars out, it may be quite challanging to get them out that first time. If you drop the whole rear assembly, you will have the access you need but in place, I don't know. YRMV.
But. If you've never had the bars out, it may be quite challanging to get them out that first time. If you drop the whole rear assembly, you will have the access you need but in place, I don't know. YRMV.
Since the consensus for trackies is to go with the hole in case one wishes to make an adjustment later on, made it seem like a good idea.
#22
That seems right. make sure you support the trailing arm before you remove the torsion bar. It helps if you have someone to wiggle the trailing arm a little when you are putting the bars back in.
And don't forget to center your adjustment plates.
After you get everything broke free and do it once, you will wonder what all the concern was about.
Good luck!
And don't forget to center your adjustment plates.
After you get everything broke free and do it once, you will wonder what all the concern was about.
Good luck!
#23
That seems right. make sure you support the trailing arm before you remove the torsion bar. It helps if you have someone to wiggle the trailing arm a little when you are putting the bars back in.
And don't forget to center your adjustment plates.
After you get everything broke free and do it once, you will wonder what all the concern was about.
Good luck!
And don't forget to center your adjustment plates.
After you get everything broke free and do it once, you will wonder what all the concern was about.
Good luck!