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if you do get new rubber bushings, I find it easier to install them on the plate if you shave a 45 degree relief for the weld on the spring plate. it keeps the rubber from pooching out on the welds when you glue them on.
(a multi-master tool similar to what is used to cut out windshields or remove plaster casts works fabulous)
early vw bars, the short ones, are 25mm. they pack some preload punch when you get them past the lower stop.
Seems like they would make the rear height adjustment job with torsion bars a lot easier.
Edit: btw someone is selling a set of NIB Elephant Racing poly bronze spring plate bushes on eBay for $200 with free shipping. That’s a great deal! (No affiliation).
Sorry, I had a brain fart while posting earlier and didn't realize you were just lowering/raising the bars that are already installed.
My posts were referring to upgrading the bars to larger stiffer ones so there's math involved. If you're just changing ride height yes just slide out adjust and slide in.
That's quite a relief actually, and certainly not what I thought I'd be in for when reading the procedure for removing the whole rear suspension +1
Originally Posted by thomasmryan
set the car level on jackstands using the door sill as a guide. Shoot for 14 degrees from horizontal both sides being equal. each offset is 0.8 degrees....ie opposite index of one on both splined ends. imho.... your goal of a 2.5" drop might be good for asthetics but your handling will be compromised. once you hit the bump stop, there is no travel which can produce undesirable results
the front coil-overs and rear shocks are pretty beefy and the current front setup will require the 2.5" in the back to get it back to level. There should still be lots of travel. But I'll measure the distance and report back.
Originally Posted by V2Rocket
does a 944 even have 2.5" to drop?
I guess I'll find out. I might be putting the cart before the horse as I started with the front. The coil-overs still have plenty of room to change the front before the horse. Hate when I do this.
Originally Posted by Dan Martinic
Goniometer?
I was surprised that I remembered the name! You know those fancy-*** App. Sci people....
Originally Posted by Dan Martinic
Here's what I used ions ago... I also recall using a level with a metal protractor with a rotating arm.
That's a nice tool. Starrett doesn't fool around. I've got the rotating arm thing. Wonder if it has a fancy name as well...
Originally Posted by Dan Martinic
but... "...cut an access hole in the rocker panel..."?? Oh My!
Tis but a scratch! These access ports are common on the 914s and early 911s plus this is a track car (see my avatar). I plan to cover the holes with club stickers or wheel centre bits as I made correct sized holes.
Originally Posted by Dan Martinic
In the Bugs, I didn't have to weld, tap, or slide-hammer anything; the torsion bars just came out... maybe a little pulling with an adjustable...
Good luck & do post your experience!
I hope mine slide out just as easily. I'll update this later. It's a high of -8 C today and tomorrow.
Originally Posted by thomasmryan
if you do get new rubber bushings, I find it easier to install them on the plate if you shave a 45 degree relief for the weld on the spring plate. it keeps the rubber from pooching out on the welds when you glue them on (a multi-master tool similar to what is used to cut out windshields or remove plaster casts works fabulous) early vw bars, the short ones, are 25mm. they pack some preload punch when you get them past the lower stop.
That's good to know. Thanks. +1
Originally Posted by MAGK944
Curious has anyone fitted the Rennline adjustable spring plates? Seems like they would make the rear height adjustment job with torsion bars a lot easier.
Edit: btw someone is selling a set of NIB Elephant Racing poly bronze spring plate bushes on eBay
I looked at these with the same eyes I used when the Sears Christmas catalogue arrived. It would be more work initially but afterwards, 'Bob's your uncle'.
Winter has returned to my part of the world so this project will have to wait a few days. Even then, it won't be 8 hour days but I will report back.
I agree that if you are going back with the same torsion bars, you should just be able to drop everything your desired amount and re-insert the bars.
But. If you've never had the bars out, it may be quite challanging to get them out that first time. If you drop the whole rear assembly, you will have the access you need but in place, I don't know. YRMV.
I agree that if you are going back with the same torsion bars, you should just be able to drop everything your desired amount and re-insert the bars.
But. If you've never had the bars out, it may be quite challanging to get them out that first time. If you drop the whole rear assembly, you will have the access you need but in place, I don't know. YRMV.
Will proceed this way. Thanks.
Since the consensus for trackies is to go with the hole in case one wishes to make an adjustment later on, made it seem like a good idea.
That seems right. make sure you support the trailing arm before you remove the torsion bar. It helps if you have someone to wiggle the trailing arm a little when you are putting the bars back in.
And don't forget to center your adjustment plates.
After you get everything broke free and do it once, you will wonder what all the concern was about.
That seems right. make sure you support the trailing arm before you remove the torsion bar. It helps if you have someone to wiggle the trailing arm a little when you are putting the bars back in.
And don't forget to center your adjustment plates.
After you get everything broke free and do it once, you will wonder what all the concern was about.
Good luck!
Thanks, tc, it's these little things that will make life easier and leave me wondering what my worry was all about indeed.
02-06-2020, 08:27 AM
