Robby

shortyboy- I'm confused- I thought hte turbo thermostat was the temp sensor? There are only TWO that I'm aware of & they are called temp sensors &/or thermostats, interchangeably... I thought one opened up the radiator to allow cooling to go through the engine & the other activated the fans...? Am I wrong here? I DO know that SOME people advocate removing the water jackets from the turbos & that this is normally only done for track cars... ALSO, some say that removing the radiator thermostat is a bad idea b/c the fluid traveling through the fins will move TOO quickly- there are lot's of theories here, but, I doubt any one of them would be worth more than 2' or so- My engine seems to be ~15' too hot- this a lot more... feel like I'm running a 3rd Gen RX7....

shortyboy

well the turbo t-stat im taking about is on the water pump,its close to the radiator t-stat.the sensor your talking about is the one used for cooling down the turbo after the engine has shutdown.ill try to get a pix up to show u.btw,i had alot of fun taking out my t-stat today!first one side of the c-clip proke off and then the other side broke off as well.at this point i thought i was screwed,i spent the whole after noon(about 3 hours) prying out the t-stat,now that its out i sure as hell am not putting one in.here in hawaii the weather is about 80 degrees year round.ill update ASAP.thanx everyone!!!

Robby

Ok, I understand... yes, let us know how it works now that you have it this way... might be better off.... of course, in places that get really cold weather, it might not be the best idea, but, for the consistency you have, it might work fine...

Matt O.

I don't think the insulation under the hood or the heat shield are the cause. I have neither and my paint is fine. Your car is running WAY WAY too hot if it's getting to the red bar. It's red for a reason. Try flushing the coolant system (with pressure), check fans, etc. But don't drive the car while it's so hot. That can do some serious damage.

By the way, it's very possible that your t-stat is OK (you said you just replaced, yes?) but your waterpump is shot. I had one onetime that the impellers went bad (bearings or something). So it wasn't pumping, even though the t-stat would open (as you said with boiling water?).

Seriously though, don't drive your car until you get this fixed.

shortyboy

matt,is there anyway to check the waterpump if its shot?like do i have to take the belt covers off and such.update,refilled the car with fluids but i couldnt burp the coolant.all i get is foam,i have a sear pressure tester and it takes forever to bleed it.there might be alot of air left by the water pump,i just dont know how to get the air out on the radiator hose.thanx again

Matt O.

Honestly, people make a big deal on here about bleeding this and bleeding that, and they are right you should bleed the coolant after doing work on it but it's not that complicated. Jack the front of the car up a bit, start the car, let it warm up for a few mins, put some rags around the bleeder screw that is on the engine by the upper radiator hose (IIRC on a 8v 2.5L) and open it up. Air should come out, and basically leave it open until a solid stream of fluid comes out. After that close it up. Turn the heater on in the cab. I usually wait a few mins and then crack it open again (but be careful, HOT WATER) and let some fluid out to make sure there's no more air.

Just read what you wrote about "all i get is foam,"....

Hey do this easy thing first.... pull your spark plugs, take a look at them and make sure they look the same (normal, one is not white). It actually might be your head gasket.

Mark Lue

Ditto ... .

shortyboy

ok,another update.i feel hot air by the headers.at first i thought that was he fans blowing hot air but i check the fans and they werent on!so it may seem that i have a header leak/cracked header.note:PO never told me but it seems the car was in an accident(passenger engine bay area) and had an engine fire(yes i bought a lemon).i was thinking it might have been cracked in the accident.i feel alot of hot air.is there another way of testing for cracks?or do i have to take the headers off to check.ive read alot of people with cracked headers just weld it up.please post your thoughts.thank you.

944_S_TYPE

I think you just answered your own question. Exhaust manifold leaking, Hot air straight to hood? Mabyee you should remove them. and inspect. Then if that is not cracked, look at the block/head. May be just the Manifold to head seals.....

shortyboy

well,i didnt feel like starting another thread so.im about to takle,this damn problem.got my water pump/timing belt kit and my arnnworx tools.any advice?special precautions before taking off bolts(ie..spraying bust-a-bolt)thanx in advance.

shortyboy

well,i didnt have much time today but i managed to set the piston TDC by myself.it was easier than i thought.im thinking of just taking of the IC pipes and timing belt covers,then spraying a bust-a-bolt liquid on the water pump bolts(thats the #1 thing that scares me right now,the bolts snapping)

shortyboy

day 2,i got the timing belt covers off and guess what?i can turn the waterpump pulley by hand with the belts still on!so that would seem to be the cause of my overheating.prolly a loose belt.so now my problem is this damn crank pulley!arrgg!cant get this bugger off!!!!i also cant find a breaker bar anywhere!i might have to goto lowes and pick up a 3' pipe!

shortyboy

update time.yesterday was pretty much taking off the waterpump,which came off easily!thank god(well thank pb blast!)cleaned up some other stuff as well.today i took off the PS pump,PS cooler lines,oil cooler housing and my oil cooler lines.i had to take of the 1-4 header to get enough room for the oil cooler housing.so,everything im going to do is finally off.recap:i took off the IC pipes,AFM,raditor fans,PS pump,PS cooler,oil cooler lines,oil cooler housing,cap and rotor and part of the headers.ill be doing the front seals too so any advice on taking off the old one and putting in the new one?thanx

shortyboy

another update,11/16/05:looks like i found another reason why i was over heating,the head gasket was leaking.on the #4 cylinder it showed some white residue,even on the valves and combustion chamber.its a great thing i pulled the head.started pulling other things out as well.like the a/c compressor,condensor,dryer,a/c lines,water coolant x-over,and alternator.im going the a/c delete route and collant x-over delete route.i also borke one of the allen bolts that holds the head to the block,what do you guys reccomend i do with this one?it also seems like the original head gasket!meaning it hasent been change ever since 87!!!!heres some pix to look at.random pix of what is laying around and what not.btw,the last few pix is my 84' 928,87' 951(the one im currently working on) and 83" 944.enjoy!

L8 APEKS

#4 seems to be the weak spot for the H/G. You're the 3rd person leaking there in the last week.