Really Hot Engine Bay
#46
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Originally posted by shortyboy
WOHOOOOOOOO!i found out the problem!the thermostat,i took out the tstat(that was fun!) put it in a pot and boiled it and nothing happend.so i put in my new stat and it opens.all i need now is the gasket and shim(NAPA did have any).im soo happy,just cant wait to get it on the road again.btw,i also took out the radiator.now another task.putting it back in!arggg........!![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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WOHOOOOOOOO!i found out the problem!the thermostat,i took out the tstat(that was fun!) put it in a pot and boiled it and nothing happend.so i put in my new stat and it opens.all i need now is the gasket and shim(NAPA did have any).im soo happy,just cant wait to get it on the road again.btw,i also took out the radiator.now another task.putting it back in!arggg........!
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#47
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What kind of problems can someone get if their car overheated, and the temperature gauge went to red? My car overheated a month ago and since then the engine has been very hot, the intercooler black pipes are burning to the touch, and since then, my temperature gauge has been giving me inaccurate readings, it won't go to the middle anymore, just the second notch.... What do you guys think happened to my car?
#48
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Cyrus- did you check the water pump to turbo hose we were talking about? Do our overheating probs STILL sound similar? MY car DID hit the red, twice, in stop & go traffic- that was early on in my situation though, &, hasn't done it since.... I'm hoping to keep it that way, knock on wood... I've given up on mine- I'm planning to rebuild the engine & do a few cool mods at that time, like larger turbo, etc- I'm hoping I'll find out whatever it is that was making my car run hot & be able to fix it, at that time- it'll be a few months before I can gete the $$$ together to do it all though...
#49
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well since i dont want to start another thread ill bring this back up.my car has started to get hot again,well maybe i didnt fix it the first time.i bought a new dme engine temp sensor thinking it would help but it didnt.car would get really hot after 15mins just sitting on start up.what could be the problem?i did a compression check not too long ago and came up with 130psi across all 4,the engine was cold.i did change the thermostat last year(maybe it went south),i dont know the mileage on the watperpump,timing belts and headgasket.i want to do all of those but i want to try do everything i can without tearing apart the engine.my car is an 1987 951 w/~70k.it seems the car was in a crash and had a previous engine fire(F*&^ING PO didnt say nothing about it,yeah i know i was stupid for not checking.)car runs fine,just that my engine bay gets really hot,so hot it chips the primer off my hood on the passenger side.also after letting the car sit for awhile after shutdown everything else would get hot too.TIA
#51
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Have you removed the exhaust from the downpipe back? IE: Get the cat converter out of the equation and drive for a while like that. Clogged or partly clogged cats will increase backpressure, causing tons of heat and a drop in performance. Same with the downpipe, if its internal walls have collapsed, but thats harder to see.
Dont drive around too long with an open downpipe, its WAY too addicting![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
(I had an open downpipe for oh 4 or 5 months).
Dont drive around too long with an open downpipe, its WAY too addicting
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#52
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If one is driving around without a down pipe and without a cat what happens to the O2 sensor? I might try this to see if that's causing my hot running issues, but what type of readings will it give to the DME?
#53
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Do the fans kick on?
Have you ensured that the cooling system is "burped" and free of air?
Is there an exhaust leak where the manifold mounts to the block? Is it noisy?
The statement below scares me:
My honest opinion is that you should take this car to a mechanic who knows what he is doing. You've been thru this before and it obviously is still not fixed properly. Why take the chance of killing it? If it is getting hot enough to kill your paint on the hood, that is bad.
Diagnosing this problem over the internet could be a losing proposition.
Best of luck.
Have you ensured that the cooling system is "burped" and free of air?
Is there an exhaust leak where the manifold mounts to the block? Is it noisy?
The statement below scares me:
)i dont know the mileage on the watperpump,timing belts and headgasket
Diagnosing this problem over the internet could be a losing proposition.
Best of luck.
#54
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Originally Posted by Crackhead944S
If one is driving around without a down pipe and without a cat what happens to the O2 sensor? I might try this to see if that's causing my hot running issues, but what type of readings will it give to the DME?
#55
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well the fans do turn on and i dont have a cat on,im running a full open exhaust.i have changed the headgasket,timing belt or waterpump yet.i am mechanically inclined so no need for a mechanic.i have burped the cooling system twice with a craftsman cooling system pressure tester.still it gets hot.hmm,i havent checked the headers for an exhaust leak.i have the metal heat shield over the headers.im just trying to rule out what could be the problem.thanx
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To Robby:
Concerning your overheat problems, I too had an engine running at about the 2nd temperature mark or a little below, independent of driving condition. After I left it to German Motors to change radiatorit settles at horizontal (b/w 2 and 3) and often comes up to 3/4 between 2 and 3. Although it never touches the 3rd mark this made me anxious. I heard from German Motors that the change came as a result from chosing a hotter thermostat. The old school said: keept the engine real cool. The new says: horizontal or sligthly positive temp-instrument reading is good for the engine. The change hence came from the change in thermostats and not from a defect. Since we both came back with "hotter" cars from Germ Mot, this may be an indication. Furthermore, Ger Mot said that some PO tend to remove the dual heating sys with two thermostats in order to "open up" more cooling. This is a mistake since the first sys is only meant to ensure rapid circulation of water-heating the engine from cold. The second sys shuts down the first and maintains driving condition cooling. If the two sys are combined, hot water will re-circulate instead of going to the raditator. This is a problem when the sun is out.
Hope this contributed something
Mikael
Concerning your overheat problems, I too had an engine running at about the 2nd temperature mark or a little below, independent of driving condition. After I left it to German Motors to change radiatorit settles at horizontal (b/w 2 and 3) and often comes up to 3/4 between 2 and 3. Although it never touches the 3rd mark this made me anxious. I heard from German Motors that the change came as a result from chosing a hotter thermostat. The old school said: keept the engine real cool. The new says: horizontal or sligthly positive temp-instrument reading is good for the engine. The change hence came from the change in thermostats and not from a defect. Since we both came back with "hotter" cars from Germ Mot, this may be an indication. Furthermore, Ger Mot said that some PO tend to remove the dual heating sys with two thermostats in order to "open up" more cooling. This is a mistake since the first sys is only meant to ensure rapid circulation of water-heating the engine from cold. The second sys shuts down the first and maintains driving condition cooling. If the two sys are combined, hot water will re-circulate instead of going to the raditator. This is a problem when the sun is out.
Hope this contributed something
Mikael
#59
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speaking of a second thermostat,are there any ill effects of taking off the turbo thermostat?i figure if im taking off the water pump thermostat,why not take off the turbo thermostat.thanx
#60
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Mikael- where ARE you? I use a place called German Motorworks here in Knoxville, but, is privately owned... Mike Taylor... Anyway, I see what you're saying, & I agree w/what you're saying about removing the dual system, but, It seems weird to me that anyone would think a hotter running engine would be good... Also, there is variance b/t temp sensors, etc... I'm hoping that yanking & rebuilding the entire engine will help- just not sure who to use.....