When box welding early 944 control arms ...
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
When box welding early 944 control arms ...
I have a spare set of control arms for my early 85 944. I am going to try my hand at box welding them for strength. Any recommendations on what gauge steel to use? Or other advice, for that matter?
#2
Usually I am all for "giving it a go" but in this case the potential cost (of life/health) is too much
#3
Rennlist Member
My advice is Don't do it, you need to make sure you don't induce any stress points as no flex is a bad thing, if you stiffen a certain section, where that meets a standard section creates a stress point
Usually I am all for "giving it a go" but in this case the potential cost (of life/health) is too much
Usually I am all for "giving it a go" but in this case the potential cost (of life/health) is too much
#4
Rennlist Member
I have heard the philosophy that the control arm is the weak link. Better to bend this part and just replace it. It would be very hard to break this part.
That said, I boxed the control arms on my track car. The gauge of the material is really not the important parameter. The fact that you are boxing the section is where the strength comes from.
Bottom line: 1/16" material.
That said, I boxed the control arms on my track car. The gauge of the material is really not the important parameter. The fact that you are boxing the section is where the strength comes from.
Bottom line: 1/16" material.
#5
Rennlist Member
It's required to box the a-arms in my PCA region. They are known to fail at the track. I've been running them on my car for the last 10 years. No stress cracks. Lol.
#7
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
As long as the welder is competent and aware of the metal gauge of the arms and the reinforcing piece and gets the "heat" right I think it is OK.
Looking at my A-arms I wonder if you'd gain anything by using a round tube (~1" OD?) to "fill the gap" rather than a simple flat stock triangulating the "box".
Round tube would probably fit the "valley" nicely and give lots of surface area to weld to, and it's stiffer than flat bar.
Looking at my A-arms I wonder if you'd gain anything by using a round tube (~1" OD?) to "fill the gap" rather than a simple flat stock triangulating the "box".
Round tube would probably fit the "valley" nicely and give lots of surface area to weld to, and it's stiffer than flat bar.
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#8
Drifting
As long as the welder is competent and aware of the metal gauge of the arms and the reinforcing piece and gets the "heat" right I think it is OK.
Looking at my A-arms I wonder if you'd gain anything by using a round tube (~1" OD?) to "fill the gap" rather than a simple flat stock triangulating the "box".
Round tube would probably fit the "valley" nicely and give lots of surface area to weld to, and it's stiffer than flat bar.
Looking at my A-arms I wonder if you'd gain anything by using a round tube (~1" OD?) to "fill the gap" rather than a simple flat stock triangulating the "box".
Round tube would probably fit the "valley" nicely and give lots of surface area to weld to, and it's stiffer than flat bar.
Customer was very 😊, Harvey Ferris post is also supportive for steel strap aka flat bar stock.
The steel arms were on a race car for 7 years and NO stress cracks. Just control the heat, tig weld or mig weld
#11
Nordschleife Master