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Engine rebuilds are expensive!

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Old 02-18-2004, 08:11 PM
  #31  
Perry 951
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My rule of thumb (like many others) is to replace any OEM load bearing bolt or stud after it's 3rd torquing. So.. if this is the 1st time it's been apart, you have 1 more. After that, you should replace the studs and nuts.
Old 02-18-2004, 08:13 PM
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Perry 951
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Originally posted by Mike S
If I have even one oil leak by time I'm done....i'll cry.
Better get your tissues ready. They all leak a little. What 944 have you ever seen that has not leaked any oil?
Old 02-18-2004, 08:25 PM
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Mike S
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Better get your tissues ready. They all leak a little. What 944 have you ever seen that has not leaked any oil?
Perry...that is the last thing I want to hear from someone on this board...especially you of all people. Tell me some good news....




I think the biggest expense for me so far was replacing all the stupid little seals and washers. Most kits only contain an oil pan gasket and the front reseal kit. I bought the little items like the balance shaft plug seals, oil seperator seals, blah blah blah.....those little things add up. Oh...and the freaken dealer wanted $30 for a banjo bolt I broke.
Old 02-18-2004, 09:09 PM
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DerSchlechtSpecht
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thats why I love N/A engines. They usually dont need much more than rings, bearings, and gaskets.

When I rebuilt my 2.5 8V it oly cost 600 dollars.

-Christian
Old 02-18-2004, 09:15 PM
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adrial
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Christian,
It depends how deep of a rebuild you do...I'll be left with a pretty much brand new engine.

Mike,

None of those gaskets were included with the gasket sets? Do you have a list of them by any chance you could send me?

I'm hoping for no leaks as well...I hope Perry is wrong!
Old 02-18-2004, 09:27 PM
  #36  
Perry 951
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When my upper balance shaft seal became a gusher on start up, I knew I would have leaks. I repaired it, went 400 miles, and the little leaks started again. It's not much, but enough to be annoying. I make sure I wipe things down each time I wash it. (my monthly washings take about 4 hours)
Old 02-18-2004, 09:48 PM
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Dave
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Originally posted by DerSchlechtSpecht
thats why I love N/A engines. They usually dont need much more than rings, bearings, and gaskets.

When I rebuilt my 2.5 8V it oly cost 600 dollars.

-Christian
Again....
Old 02-18-2004, 09:51 PM
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adrial
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I'm at $3700 with the go-fast goodies (MAF, piggyback and wideband O2)... about $2700 without the go-fast goodies.

It'll probably settle around $4k, maybe a little above by the time its all said and done.
Old 02-18-2004, 09:57 PM
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Bhj0887
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What 944 have you ever seen that has not leaked any oil?
Mine, it leaks everything, but oil and coolant. Oh, wait I fixed the power steering, and the master cylinder and slave are in the mail.
Old 02-18-2004, 10:16 PM
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alengyel
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I'm at 3400 for a mostly stock rebuild. I spent 900 today on all the rubber hoses, motor mounts and a new radiator. My total includes 600 for an updated ac compressor from griffiths. I did not get the block honed, some of the early threads state that Porsche recommends not touching the boars if they are within spec. What do you guys think? My goal was to do anything under the hood that could go wrong or bad in the next ten years.
Old 02-18-2004, 10:28 PM
  #41  
Dave
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Mine leaked in 3 places, oil pressure sender (easy fix), lower balance shaft cover (DOH!) and oil pump housing (). Four if you count the black cloud I sometimes get when I put my foot down!

All fixed now
Old 02-18-2004, 10:43 PM
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88BlueTSiQuest
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Since you are doing a complete rebuild, why not eliminate the balance shafts, and have the rotating assembly balanced without them? It would free up a couple of ponies, shave a few lbs, and eliminate the BS belt.
Old 02-18-2004, 11:03 PM
  #43  
Chris Prack
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Originally posted by adrial
Anybody have any thoughts on the crank girdle studs? They go unmentioned for the most part.
Raceware sells a main stud kit. It replaces all of the studs with the exception of the 6mm one. I just installed the first set in a 2.6 turbo motor.

I wouldn't spend the time eliminating the balance shafts. BTDT, you will have to locktite every bolt or saftey wire and then still have to continually check for missing or loose hardware. Not worth it for the little gain you will get, turn up the boost a little more instead.

Last fall when my air timed valve broke and I burned a valve at VIR, this is what I found. With 130k on it, I replace all the valves, guides, springs, retainers and keepers.

Sorry about the poor pic.
Old 02-19-2004, 02:40 PM
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adrial
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Originally posted by adrial
Mike,

None of those gaskets were included with the gasket sets? Do you have a list of them by any chance you could send me?


I definetely wont be deleting the balance shafts, whats the point?
Old 02-19-2004, 03:03 PM
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hitbyastick
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I spent about 1300 on my 914 engine. I realize that these things are a lot easier and part cheaper, but still some good money for a student. Good thing I could do it all myself. Paying people would have made it a lot worse.


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