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While having my rough idle issue sorted out, I figure I’ll line up all my ducks in a row so all I have to do is pull the trigger when the car is running right.
The car is currently all stock with the exception of a rebuilt turbo with a billet compressor wheel. Once I have the idling issue sorted out I’ll probably either install VEMS or upgrade the DME with an FTech9 DME and run a Vitesse MAF. Only other thing I’m considering power wise is an exhaust and headers.
The car still has the original suspension so they will be replaced with a Motion Controls. I’ll probably go with their single adjustables and have them rebuilt into two way adjustables in the future if I need it.
Next are the wheels and tires. Given that tires for the 944 turbo are rather limited, I have to start with suitable tires then choose my wheels based on tires. I’m trying to decide whether to go with 16s or 17s. But I do want to run wider wheels and tires. I want to run a square set up either way. For 16s I’m looking at 245/45 16 Toyo RA1s and if I go 17s, I’ll go with Michelin Sport Cup 2s in 255/40 17. I suppose with stock-ish HP and torque, I don’t need to go any wider? I currently have 7 and 8 x 16 Fuchs right now. And the tires while barely used are more than 4 years old.
So I’m thinking my choices are:
Buy a set of 9x16 ET15 Fuchs
Have a set custom set of 9x17 Fuchs reps made by Braid or Augment Wheels
Have a custom set of 9x17 phone dials made by Augment Wheels
Have a custom set of 9x17 Speedline reps made by Augment Wheels
My questions are:
- Is there a huge difference in terms of cornering grip between 16x9s and 17x9s? Is it worth the cost difference?
- I’ve read though a lot of threads here and it seems I’ll be ok running 255/40 17s on 17x9s. What offsets do you guys think will work best? The rears look like they could be pushed out a lot more than the fronts so I’m thinking the offsets will be dictated by the fronts. How much room do I have inboard up front? An offset of approx 10 will keep the inboard clearance stock but push the outside 2 inches. Will that clear the fenders? The reason I was thinking of an eta of 10 is that it helps fill out the rear fenders. Or should I just stick with an et of 15?
Below are pics of 18” phone dials by augment wheels and a set of 17” Speedline reps Augment wheels made for my 964 widebody
Just spoke with Augment Wheels. It looks like the phone dials are going to be too heavy. So it’s down to th Fuchs or the Speedline reps. Or maybe Cup 1s in 17s with a custom offset.
Just spoke with Augment Wheels. It looks like the phone dials are going to be too heavy. So it’s down to th Fuchs or the Speedline reps. Or maybe Cup 1s in 17s with a custom offset.
Are you set on using Augment wheels? There are some excellent forged lightweight choices from other manufacturers like HRE or Fikse in any size and offset you want.
I’ve purchased HREs before and had Fikse make my custom set of Fuchs reps for my 964. I was looking to go with Augment Wheels because I wanted reps of Porsche wheels in a larger size. Anything wrong with Augment Wheels?
Is there a reason for running wider tires up front? A 245 or 255 is going to be a tight fit on the front, depending on the tire brand and actual section width. You could end up rubbing the spring/strut, or the outer fender lip. You should verify the 16x9 clears the front caliper.
Originally Posted by Rainmaker
Anything wrong with Augment Wheels?
There is nothing wrong, but there might be some hesitation because they are a new company. Their site claims FEA analysis and standards that exceed TUV. As I recall, the TUV requires wheels be load tested for X cycles (don't remember number). They don't say anything about load testing their wheels outside of the digital world (FEA).
Their wheels could be fine, but there are some unknowns. I have nothing against them; in fact their business model is quite interesting.
If you're tracking the car I would recommend against all of the wheels you write in your original post. Augment has unknowns, original 16x9 Fuchs are old and fatigued. Unless you are getting new 16x9s.
Nothing really except maybe as french said they are new and have relatively little track proving time compared to say Fikse. Also on the Fuchs reps, have you considered the new Fuchsfelge wheels, looks like they offer a 17” in the sizes you are looking for.
Nothing really except maybe as french said they are new and have relatively little track proving time compared to say Fikse. Also on the Fuchs reps, have you considered the new Fuchsfelge wheels, looks like they offer a 17” in the sizes and offset you’d need.
Thank you. I did check them out previously but they are only available in late offsets. My turbo is an 86/early offset.
1. They are super expensive and fairly rare if you are looking at factory versions. It's probably cheaper to do a custom aftermarket wheelset.
2. You may have fittiment issues on the front due to the offset/width combination. Even dialing in a lot of neg camber you may have rub issues on the fender, especially if on a lowered car.
I would be looking for the lightest possible configuration that fits your budget, aesthetic requirements and has the grip you want. Light wheels do everything better (as long as they are rigid enough to maintain proper geometry and durable enough hold up to use). That leans me toward the smallest diameter possible - as long as you have a good selection of tires available. I believe that conflicts with tires because there should be a lot more available in 17 inch size versus 16 inch. I definitely wouldn't go larger than 17 inch if you are after performance. The Sport Cup 2 is a great tire for track only or limited street use in warm, dry weather. I don't know much about the Toyos.
Your wheel choices look heavy to me. They will probably live forever but not be that good of performers. Probably a good way to go on a reasonable budget, though.
I would consider a staggered setup - depending on how much power you are making the extra width will help you more in the rear than in the front.
2. You may have fittiment issues on the front due to the offset/width combination. Even dialing in a lot of neg camber you may have rub issues on the fender, especially if on a lowered car.
You are referring to the 9x16 Fuchs right? Will rolling the fenders not address this? There seem to be several members who have no problem running much wider wheel and tire combinations up front.
Are 16x8s up front enough to prevent understeer? I’m trying to minimize understeer by putting in the widest tires that reasonably fit.
I would be looking for the lightest possible configuration that fits your budget, aesthetic requirements and has the grip you want. Light wheels do everything better (as long as they are rigid enough to maintain proper geometry and durable enough hold up to use). That leans me toward the smallest diameter possible - as long as you have a good selection of tires available. I believe that conflicts with tires because there should be a lot more available in 17 inch size versus 16 inch. I definitely wouldn't go larger than 17 inch if you are after performance. The Sport Cup 2 is a great tire for track only or limited street use in warm, dry weather. I don't know much about the Toyos.
Your wheel choices look heavy to me. They will probably live forever but not be that good of performers. Probably a good way to go on a reasonable budget, though.
I would consider a staggered setup - depending on how much power you are making the extra width will help you more in the rear than in the front.
I’m not planning to run much more power than what’s available with VEMS or Vitesse MAF and an exhaust. I will be putting in Motion Controls. I just want the car to be fun for the occasional track day. I do have another car which I regularly track so I’m not planning to go too crazy with the mods in the 944
turbo. I’d rather it be reliable and fun enough for some trackdays. I don’t need it to be the fastest thing on the track.
As far as tire choices are concerned, I’m located in the Philippines, so pretty much warm weather all year round. The Sport Cup 2s are what I have on my Lotus and I have no issues using them all year round. I just slow down if I get caught in the rain.
Thank you. I did check them out previously but they are only available in late offsets. My turbo is an 86/early offset.
I don’t know if we have had this conversation before. As you are planning to swap out the suspension soon you should seriously consider fitting later offset parts especially with the larger wheel fittment. The late offset hubs are far superior (stronger) and use bigger wheels bearings to support those larger wheels, early hubs have been known to fail. Good used late spindles, hubs and tie rods are not expensive though you will also need rotors. Btw, the late rotors are also far superior in how easy they mount compared to early offset cars, imo another plus. Just something to think about.
I don’t know if we have had this conversation before. As you are planning to swap out the suspension soon you should seriously consider fitting later offset parts especially with the larger wheel fittment. The late offset hubs are far superior (stronger) and use bigger wheels bearings to support those larger wheels, early hubs have been known to fail. Good used late spindles, hubs and tie rods are not expensive though you will also need rotors. Btw, the late rotors are also far superior in how easy they mount compared to early offset cars, imo another plus. Just something to think about.
Wow! I didn’t know you could do that! Thank you! I’ll definitely consider doing that. Sounds expensive though given rotors will need to be changed. Will the calipers need upgrading as well?
What parts exactly need replacing? Is it just limited to the singles, hubs, tie rods and rotors? is there a thread that covers this topic? How much would all this run?
...What parts exactly need replacing? Is it just limited to the singles, hubs, tie rods and rotors? is there a thread that covers this topic? How much would all this run?
You would need front arms, spindles, hubs and tie rods from any 87 or later 944 and a set of rear hubs from the same years. Like I said good used parts shouldn’t be expensive as there are plenty around, though I would probably buy the tie rods new and wyit replace the control arm ball joints if they are not tight. Yes you’ll need new later turbo rotors but the calipers don’t change, so maybe consider doing all the work (suspension, offset, rotors and wheels) at once when the rotors are worn. Larts Parts or one of the other breakers on here will be able to sell you everything you need.
10-30-2018, 10:49 AM
Custom wheels for my 86 Turbo
