Otto Mechanic

Sounds like a well considered and very reasonable approach to a car you have so little history with. I expect it will work out very well.

Best Regards,

lamrith

Well it feels good to report a positive outcome so far. Got home lastnight and had my son put the fender back on the car, then I checked coolant level and topped off the power steering fluid (I was not quick enough the night before and it sucked air for a second during fill up and aerated the fluid), then fired the car up. Instant oil pressure! Power steering cleared one last small lair bubble and running smooth and quiet. Car idled while we collect a few thing in case of emergency. Then we took the car out for a quick drive around block, then extended the drive to a bit longer loop. Only a couple miles, but car was full warmed up and running like a top!

This morning was it's real test, I drove it to work, 14mi one way with mix of surface and highway. Man these are are just smooth! For a 191K engine/chassis the car just wants to go. Solid throttle response, eager to pull up to 6k getting on the freeway. Cruised along smooth as silk @ 65mph. Solid 4bar oil pressure and the temp barely got to lower mark and stayed there even after the freeway run (used to climb to top mark as soon as slow down).

Man what a nice fun to drive little car. Has me eager to get garage cleaned up and my car (family refers to it as "The carcass") pushed in and start working on it!!

lamrith

Well more time and miles on her. Since we bought it the car has 4-5 tanks of gas thru it, it has had 2 oil changes to flush the system out and it is running solid, just fixing little things now as we go. 200miles on it just this week running around town.

Son had a very upsetting setback on getting his license on his birthday. Driving school had told him not to get his permit until a week before his class, not as soon as he legally could. His class was pushed back due to family trips, etc. Turns out that here you have to have your permit for 6mos before can get license. Never mind he has more hours in seat than anyone and his instructors (all Ex Police) said he was the most relaxed, controlled and observant driver they had seen. Heck on the drives he was calling out cool cars to them and they were talking about them most of the time as he was driving. The other drivers in the class acted like never been behind wheel before.... Ugh, was a crushing blow after all our work to get the car ready for that specific day. HE is stuck without license till Jan now. BUT he gave mom and I specific instructions to drive the car, as he did not want it sitting :-p Well OK!

I am enjoying the car more and more as I get used to it. The thing that is glaring to me right now is the handling. The car responds to small movements of the wheel, but 1st thing it does is body roll. She just is very "boaty" in terms of handling, and she is floaty a bit at highway speeds. She body rolls like a 60's era American full sized sedan. So obviously to me the Sway bar needs to go back in front and it probably needs shocks all around. We like the softish ride, but not the body roll.

• The sway bar measured 26mm front with no bar at all in the tail when I started this project. The replacement bushings I put on do not want to fit the bracket, but I will look more at that tonight and maybe use some talc on it. I am also going to remeasure the bar as 26mm front, nothing tail seems a bit odd for stock based on what I have seen online? I am hoping getting the bar back in will take a bunch of the roll out and get the car feeling more solid and less boaty.
• Shocks - I have seen there are cartridges that can be installed on the front as a sort of "refill". My question is are the S and turbo shock housings very different? Could I get "turbo" replacement inserts to install in his NA shock bodies? Std NA inserts will probably be fine, but I figured before I do that I wanted to ask just in case.

Pretty pleased so far, I think we have around $1000 into it for parts during this rebuild/refresh project. Still more to go, but things are now getting to be more cosmetic and less mechanical in nature.

lamrith

Got looking around a bit. Local places both seem to carry the same offerings, economical or really expensive special order.

• KYB Excel-G Shock/Strut Insert for front #363014
• KYB Gas-A-Just Shock Absorber for rear #KG4544

Anyone have experience with these? There was also a gabriel insert for front, but I figured staying same brand might make them work together better? It is a daily driver car, not a track car, mostly looking for something to get the ride better than the 191k Mi original dampers that are on the car and still ride smooth.

Dan Martinic

Clark-88-944

I would whole heartily recommend going with Koni yellow Sports. Front & back. Stiffer springs in the front would do a whole lotta good too. I wouldn't go less than 250lb front springs. The Springs and shocks work in concert and for best effect I would use 250-350lb springs and Koni yellows.
It'll absolutely transform the handling of the car. From rolly-polly to a slot car! Sway bars are more for fine tuning.

Clark

Clark-88-944

Alot of good option here: https://www.paragon-products.com/Por...ruts-s/257.htm

lamrith

Thanks guys. This car is a daily driver for a 16yr old, looking to stay factory stock level on things as we fix them, not upgraded/sport stuff. Maybe once he has a few years under belt and not wrecked it we will look at improvements based on his skill/desires.

My car on the other hand will get upgraded goodies, so filling these ideas away for future!

Dan Martinic

Otto Mechanic

I've had very positive experience concerning suspension improvements with Jason at Paragon Products, I'd suggest calling him. He can give you very reliable advice on shocks and anti-roll bars. I personally installed the M030 replica anti-roll bars sold by Lyndsey Racing and I've been very happy with them. As for bushings, I used Delrin on the front and rear roll bars, poly on everything else, and that has helped too.

I did end up using the Koni inserts in the front and Koni adjustables in the rear.

Tuning the suspension is a journey.

Regards,

Stevieporsche

lamrith

Well. $&@!.
I Pulled front strut to to install inserts and think I am hosed. They seem completely shot, I can easily move them by hand so they definitely need replacement.
I see no way these are coming apart to put inserts in them? Napa, orielly, rock auto all said inserts would work.

Sachs 944.343.032.17

Any guidance?

944Fest (aka Dan P)

944 struts with koni inserts
The inserts cut the top off the strut, yank out the guts, stick in a new one. You drill a hole in the bottom and attach it with a bolt. Paragon offers the service for a pair of shocks somewhere around $200, I paid a local guy over 300 to do it for me, but I saved on shipping and time. Here is Paragon's DIY for the job.
https://www.paragon-products.com/kb_results.asp?ID=50

Swenny

Thanks for the link Dan P.

lamrith

Thanks for the info. My inserts are not Koni's and not meant to mount like that link.

Just went ahead and installed a set of 951 front and rear shocks I had planned to use on my conversion car. I will find something in the future when that car is ready to get rolling.