New 944 owner, right into the deep end
10-25-2018, 01:01 AM
#91
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The hole I am refering to is the big drain at the back of the tray area, the drains into the fender. The deck of the tray is to this point intact, but rusty. I want to get it to bare metal then coat it.
10-25-2018, 08:10 AM
#92
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Healing/sealing the battery tray...
So my son's car has been safe and sound in the garage for many month, nice and dried out. It has some rust going in the front corner of the battery tray. I have peeled he paint off and gotten it cleaned up, but what is the best way to seal it back up? The drain port into the wheel well is clean, clear and wide open so I know water can get out of there now. It was not that way when we got the car.
I bought a can of 3m Rubberized undercoating to use to seal the replacement fender when I install it, I am wondering if I can use that in the battery tray area too? OR maybe some of the roll on bed liner will probably be much cleaner and easier to apply? I am not as worried about "concourse" correct as I am about making sure it is sealed up good to stop further water getting to the metal. This is 100% a driver car, and will see driving in all 4 seasons.
So my son's car has been safe and sound in the garage for many month, nice and dried out. It has some rust going in the front corner of the battery tray. I have peeled he paint off and gotten it cleaned up, but what is the best way to seal it back up? The drain port into the wheel well is clean, clear and wide open so I know water can get out of there now. It was not that way when we got the car.
I bought a can of 3m Rubberized undercoating to use to seal the replacement fender when I install it, I am wondering if I can use that in the battery tray area too? OR maybe some of the roll on bed liner will probably be much cleaner and easier to apply? I am not as worried about "concourse" correct as I am about making sure it is sealed up good to stop further water getting to the metal. This is 100% a driver car, and will see driving in all 4 seasons.
I don't have personal experience with it but the MG guys swear by POR-15.
Clark
10-25-2018, 09:13 AM
#93
Drifting
10-25-2018, 04:52 PM
#95
Drifting
Yes, those are the extra products to use. Good kit. Keep some extra time available: the directions for the prep requires 30mins of "keeping wet" with prep product and time between applications
11-14-2018, 03:55 AM
#96
If you want to drive it year round move that battery to the back fender well with a 15 ft 4 gauge wire. Connect a racing switch where the old battery was for two reasons. 1) it connects the cables together easily and 2) you can quickly shut off all power anytime you want to work on the car.
Run cable under carpet all the way back and battery sits under carpet flap in back quarter panel. This solved so many electrical / starting / worrying issues for me, and you would not believe the time saved not having to connect and disconnect battery cables every time you work on the car. Just flip the racing switch! The 220.00 redtop battery in the back quarter will last you about 7 years in that car this way.
I sprayed that battery tray with rust stop first and then a few days later added about 10 layers of the 3M rubber undercoating you mention. Lets see that was 2002 and its still holding. Watch the overspray on the mechanical switches that flip your dampers or suddenly the ac or heat or fresh air settings will not work right cuz your dampers are frozen up with rubber goo. Yes I have been there.
Run cable under carpet all the way back and battery sits under carpet flap in back quarter panel. This solved so many electrical / starting / worrying issues for me, and you would not believe the time saved not having to connect and disconnect battery cables every time you work on the car. Just flip the racing switch! The 220.00 redtop battery in the back quarter will last you about 7 years in that car this way.
I sprayed that battery tray with rust stop first and then a few days later added about 10 layers of the 3M rubber undercoating you mention. Lets see that was 2002 and its still holding. Watch the overspray on the mechanical switches that flip your dampers or suddenly the ac or heat or fresh air settings will not work right cuz your dampers are frozen up with rubber goo. Yes I have been there.
12-02-2018, 08:36 PM
#97
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Been a while since I updated. Car has been in garage sitting with a oil leak from the oil cooler housing. Drained oil and coolant a few weeks ago, pulled the cooler a week ago. Finally got time to finish it up and started putting everything back together. Used the alignmetn tool when putting the housing back on. Filled with oil, even back-filled oil into the filter housing as I remember last time it did not want to prime after being out of oil for long.
Well, it just will not pull a prime. I am only running it 30 sec or so, but now I am not sure what to do. How long does it normally take for the engine to pull oil prime? I pulled the oil pressure sensor wires and shorting them made the gauge move, so gauge and wires still good.
From the diagram here (http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/lube-11.htm), it goes pickup, pump, relief, cooler, filter. I pulled the relief valve after a couple tries and there is no oil in the cavity.
What do I do next to get it to pull oil prime?
Well, it just will not pull a prime. I am only running it 30 sec or so, but now I am not sure what to do. How long does it normally take for the engine to pull oil prime? I pulled the oil pressure sensor wires and shorting them made the gauge move, so gauge and wires still good.
From the diagram here (http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/lube-11.htm), it goes pickup, pump, relief, cooler, filter. I pulled the relief valve after a couple tries and there is no oil in the cavity.
What do I do next to get it to pull oil prime?
12-02-2018, 09:27 PM
#98
Race Car
Pull the spark plugs so engine spins at faster rpms when cranking.
It won't start so you can't hurt it.
Is the cooler reseal the only work you have done since it last had oil pressure...?
T
It won't start so you can't hurt it.
Is the cooler reseal the only work you have done since it last had oil pressure...?
T
12-02-2018, 10:21 PM
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Yes oil cooler reseal and of course all the things required to get it off (coolant, power steering, etc) but only oil related thing was the cooler.
I may pull the pressure sensor and check that it did not get damaged while it was off the car.
12-03-2018, 12:30 AM
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So, just went and pulled the OPR. ZERO oil in the passage, so oil is not even getting to that point for it to be an issue.
What is odd is that the car has a pre 86 retrofit valve in it? (Car is an 87) It worked before though so...?
I did notice that there is no oring on the nose of this relief, so I will find out the size and see what I can do. I might try pulling coil wire and turn over with it out to see if can get oil to flow to the cavity before I put it back in.
What is odd is that the car has a pre 86 retrofit valve in it? (Car is an 87) It worked before though so...?
I did notice that there is no oring on the nose of this relief, so I will find out the size and see what I can do. I might try pulling coil wire and turn over with it out to see if can get oil to flow to the cavity before I put it back in.
12-03-2018, 11:23 PM
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UPDATE
So I took the OPR to work today and got an oring at work to put on the end of it. When I got home I pulled the wires and unscrewed the oil pressure sender and oil came flowing out so I quickly screwed it back in. I had planned to check that it was working correctly, but just put it back in place, it worked before, no reason for it to suddenly stop... With the OPR out I put 40psi of air pressure into the dipstick tube while my son watched the open OPR port. Nothing, so upped to 70psi and gave it a quick bump, nothing, 10sec bump nothing, so I held it on. After 20sec son chimes in he sees oil. We switch spots and I have him put the air in, bit of oil, touch of coolant mixed in I had him keep the air on unti I got clean oil. I had him stop and then I put the OPR in and reconnected the oil pressure wires. connect coil wire and battery, start car and 3 seconds later 5bar!
WOOOT!! She lives again!
So I took the OPR to work today and got an oring at work to put on the end of it. When I got home I pulled the wires and unscrewed the oil pressure sender and oil came flowing out so I quickly screwed it back in. I had planned to check that it was working correctly, but just put it back in place, it worked before, no reason for it to suddenly stop... With the OPR out I put 40psi of air pressure into the dipstick tube while my son watched the open OPR port. Nothing, so upped to 70psi and gave it a quick bump, nothing, 10sec bump nothing, so I held it on. After 20sec son chimes in he sees oil. We switch spots and I have him put the air in, bit of oil, touch of coolant mixed in I had him keep the air on unti I got clean oil. I had him stop and then I put the OPR in and reconnected the oil pressure wires. connect coil wire and battery, start car and 3 seconds later 5bar!
WOOOT!! She lives again!
12-03-2018, 11:39 PM
#102
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UPDATE
With the OPR out I put 40psi of air pressure into the dipstick tube while my son watched the open OPR port. Nothing, so upped to 70psi and gave it a quick bump, nothing, 10sec bump nothing, so I held it on. After 20sec son chimes in he sees oil. We switch spots and I have him put the air in, bit of oil, touch of coolant mixed in I had him keep the air on unti I got clean oil. I had him stop and then I put the OPR in and reconnected the oil pressure wires. connect coil wire and battery, start car and 3 seconds later 5bar!
WOOOT!! She lives again!
With the OPR out I put 40psi of air pressure into the dipstick tube while my son watched the open OPR port. Nothing, so upped to 70psi and gave it a quick bump, nothing, 10sec bump nothing, so I held it on. After 20sec son chimes in he sees oil. We switch spots and I have him put the air in, bit of oil, touch of coolant mixed in I had him keep the air on unti I got clean oil. I had him stop and then I put the OPR in and reconnected the oil pressure wires. connect coil wire and battery, start car and 3 seconds later 5bar!
WOOOT!! She lives again!
Good work and godspeed!
12-03-2018, 11:52 PM
#103
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Yeah I was looking at it closely as he blew air into crankcase. It was all oil and coolant, but not mixed, the coolant was just in there in small amounts. Total fluid we pushed out, less than a cup oil and coolant total, coolant was maybe 20% of it. Given we pulled the oil cooler out for a reseal and my son said he saw some coolant and oil going into passages as he pulled it, I was not surprised at all, and willing to lose some oil to push coolant out of the passages. This car was not mixing oil/coolant while running, we just pulled the cooler as it was leaking externally.
12-03-2018, 11:58 PM
#104
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Thanks.
Yeah I was looking at it closely as he blew air into crankcase. It was all oil and coolant, but not mixed, the coolant was just in there in small amounts. Total fluid we pushed out, less than a cup oil and coolant total, coolant was maybe 20% of it. Given we pulled the oil cooler out for a reseal and my son said he saw some coolant and oil going into passages as he pulled it, I was not surprised at all, and willing to lose some oil to push coolant out of the passages. This car was not mixing oil/coolant while running, we just pulled the cooler as it was leaking externally.
Yeah I was looking at it closely as he blew air into crankcase. It was all oil and coolant, but not mixed, the coolant was just in there in small amounts. Total fluid we pushed out, less than a cup oil and coolant total, coolant was maybe 20% of it. Given we pulled the oil cooler out for a reseal and my son said he saw some coolant and oil going into passages as he pulled it, I was not surprised at all, and willing to lose some oil to push coolant out of the passages. This car was not mixing oil/coolant while running, we just pulled the cooler as it was leaking externally.
Glad to hear you blew it out though.
12-04-2018, 12:22 AM
#105
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I wasn't thinking about coolant and since it seems a bit rude of me to mention in that case, I shouldn't probably say anything about metal? I know there are labs that will look at your oil and tell you things about rod bearings and etc. but I probably should shut up now rather than rain on the parade. It's just that I wonder where that gunk came from?
Glad to hear you blew it out though.
Glad to hear you blew it out though.
Yeah I may do that check on a future oil change. I know lot of the SHO Ecoboost guys are into that.