Robby

Yes- I have tried using my keys & yes, I have tried the hatch too (thinking I could crawl through)... I installed 968 handles last summer & the locks have been screwed up ever since- I was planning to get them fixed next week actually- I can always get them to eventually lock &/or unlock though- they just cycle in funny ways... Anyway, now the hatch wont even open, so, there's no way into my car- there is no noise coming from the htach when I try there either- normally I can hear the lever moving- I also cannot see the LCD on my clock- normally I can faintly see what time it is through the window, when the car is off- this makes me suspect there is something wrong w/the battery- what now? I don't even think a jimmy could open it- I couldn't get the locks to move manually when trying before, when going through the PITA handle-change ordeal- finally got them to cycle somewhat & have left them alone since, since they WERE working- I'm wondering if the hood can somehow be opened or dismounted w/out getting into the car....any ideas? Please help- this is a VERY frustrating one & I've REALLY put up w/a LOT from this damn car as many here can attest to... it really kind of ruins the fun of owning it sometimes... And here I've gone & spen t several $K on her in the last few weeks & she does me like this....


Thanks,
Robby

Cyrus951

Yes, recharge your battery and your rear hatch will open.

Cyrus951

As for opening the door, call AAA.
Even with a dead battery the door locks should still open (they'll require more force, but they will open)
You left something on in there to allow the battery to drain, check that out too.

Robby

Thanks for the input... I'm not positive that AAA or any of the other's will be able to do it- the manual override should work from the passenger side anyway, which leads me to believe I have something hooked up wrong- hell, I knew that....the locks have been cycling wrong for months- I should have known changing stuff (like door handles) in a 15yr old car would cause probs.... Anyway, I REALLY don't think I left anything on- I'm thinking that one of the cables popped off or something- I let Interestate change my battery a few months ago- I should have done it myself... Might NOT be the prob though- could have something screwing up that drained it... who knows... this could be a REAL PITA....

thanks though...

OH- is it possible to get the hood open somehow w/out getting inside the car???

How hard is it to go to FULL manual locks anyway? They're pretty worthless w/just 2 doors....Manning? I just can't BELIEVE the hatch is connected the same way- I would think that it could open w/out any electrical assistance by turning the damn key, but....

Cyrus951

You never know, it could be just a loose cable on the battery.
As for the locks, BOTH the driver and passenger side locks do not open?
If so, then it's probably the battery. Maybe you need the battery for the 968 handles to open the door. I know with my 89 turbo, that you do not need the battery to open the door. When was the last time you drove the car? Did you do anything recent to it? What could you of left on? Radar detector, light..?

Robby

No- it can't be the handles- I'm using the EXACT same lock cylinders w/the 968 handles- I think that's what most do, since new cylinders are ~$500/pr. The fact that I can't see the clock tells me it's a battery thing, as well as the fact that I'm not hearing ANY movement when I try the hatch- I REALLY dont' think I left anything on- I did just get a radar detector, but it's cordless (Solo S2). The headlights are down, so I KNOW I didn't leave my 80/100 w Iceshark lights on... It IS possible I could have left the parking lights on, by not turning the switch off all the way, but VERY unlikely. I just REALLY don't know what it could be IF something like that... Thanks for all the input though- I DO appreciate that... Do you know if there are any tricks to get under the hood w/out getting inside the car?

Cyrus951

I'll do a search for you, gimme a couple minutes..

Cyrus951

Here are some possible fixes:

Here's what Mike did on his early 944 when his hood cable snapped

Another broken hood cable fix

Sorry, but I've just been through 31 search reslult pages, and these are the most relevent subjects that popped up.
Good luck, and have a happy new year.

Robby

I've tried a few searches too- the hood calble thing- since my cable isn't broken, it shouldn't require all that much trouble- IF I can get under there like those in your above posts did, I might be able to find a way to pull the cable maybe(?)

Anyway, thanks...

944Fest (aka Dan P)

I may be crazy here, but if you can jack it up and get to the starter, VERY carefully connect a battery charger to the big hot of the starter and some other ground, wouldn't it be possible to get some juice to the batt/locks this way? Be very careful, if the starter kicks you don't want to be under it (if it is in gear)

marky522

i didnt follow the link posted above, but all you need to do is reach up from under the front of the car and you'll feel where the cable attaches to the latch for the hood you just need to pull on it and the hood will pop, i had to do it on my dads car.

Mark

Dal Heger

You missed hooking up the manual release lever for the door handles when you put the 968 handles on. They are two little white plastic pieces that attach to the little ball at the end of the lock cylinder assembly and hook to the manual release on the actual door lock mechanism in the door. I have one on the driver's side that is hooked up and I left the one on the passenger side off (it was broken anyway). You also didn't line up the microswitch correctly when you reinstalled the door lock cylinder in your new 968 door handles. It has to be lined up correctly so that the microswitch is in a neutral position in the little plastic gear until you turn the lock cylinder. Take it apart and fix it, it's really easy. There is a step by step procedure at http://www.951motorsports.com/968DH.htm.

As for your immediate problems, you should be able to release the hood from under the front of the car, using a long stick or screwdriver to hit the hood release lever. If not, then you should be able to get a little charge to the battery by doing what Dan P suggested. You don't need much, you should be able to open the doors as soon as you hook up the charger.

Good luck.

Dal.

icat

Robby,
Sorry to hear you’re having troubles. There is no power connection to the rear hatch (least not that I’m aware of). Try spraying some WD-40 into the lock on the hatch – it sounds like it’s just froze up. You might also try pushing down on the spoiler just above where the latch for the hatch is. Mine sometimes sticks and this is what I do to get it to open. The indication being that the rear hatch latch is incorrectly adjusted.
As for the door locks…
The cycling power locks can drain the battery. It is critical that you have these adjusted correctly. I know it’s a PITA, as you know I’ve done the upgrade also (might even say I wrote the procedure on it ). At any rate, the locks will open without power IF and ONLY IF everything is correctly connected. Study the procedure and see if you can find anything you may have missed. There’s a lot of info in there and it is easy to overlook some of the details. If the power function continues to cause problems, then I’d suggest replacing the switches or removing them and going to manual only.

IceShark

Robby, you have plenty of good sugestions on how to get in. The front hood release will work fine with a long steel stick of some sort, say a crow bar. But you need to remove the central belly pan to get up there and see what you are doing.

Another way is to just pull out the rear quarter glass behind the B pillar. Then you can get your hand in and pull up the lock stem. Popping the rear glass is really easy from inside with just your foot pushing. From the outside you probably need one of the heavy duty suction cups the Pro glass installers use. Stop by a big glass shop and see if they will lend you a suction cup for a couple hours. There is nothing holding that glass in other than friction.

BTW, we need to get your order finalized. I sold your 35 watt halogens to someone else but have replacements coming in whenever UPS gets back up and running from New Year's. It is sort of amazing how many companies are shutting down for 5 days straight for New Year's.

Robby

Thanks for all the suggestions- I think I'm going to call someone to come get the door open- Pop-A-Lock or something...

I can't get under the car to get the belly pan off w/out jacking it up slightly- I can't get under there any other way- I can't get to my jack b/c it's in my trunk- I don't know of any other jacks that are conveniently close by. I CAN see that the positive battery cable is still on, so, SOMETHING HAS to have drained the battery... Not sure what...

Keith- there HAS to be SOMETHING powerwise for the hatch(!?)- there is something mechanical that moves when you turn the key- you can also unlatch it from inside the car, w/the lever, so there HAS to be something- there is NO movement when I turn the key now though- wouldn't make any sense w/everything else- there is something in there that is hooked up in some way... Not sure what, but, I can ALWAYS hear that little mechanical sound & motorized wine when opening the hatch from either inside OR outside the car....

I've done everything I know to do w/those damn locks BTW- I'm just going to get my mechanic to help me with it- I think I've got them right, but that something has messed up- that's the kind of crap that happens when you try to change something on a 15yr old car- very good chance of something going ahead & breaking in the process or not EVER going back correctly or something- my mechanic has been trying to tell me this since I bought the car- of course, I wouldn't really like the car very much if I had to have it COMPLETELY bone stock, so... Here I am, suffering the consequences & the 1000's of "I told you so"s from every family member & half-assed friend to Elvis himself who told me NOT to buy a Porsche....


I KNOW that I don't have both of the little white plastic arms hooked up- I THINK I have the driver side on, unless it's come loose, but, I'm pretty sure I don't have the passenger side connected- THAT could be the prob w/manual not working...

I'm not TOUCHING those damn rear windows- if I didn't do it when changing the rear speakers, I'm sure as hell not going to do it for this- I don't have ANY air leaks (up to ~155 anyway) & I don't plan on getting any by screwing up one of those rears- HELL DAN- you know my luck w/this fu**ing thing- I'd pop the rear 1/4 window out & both the axels would probably break in half....

I'm TRYING to find someone close by to bring a battery charger over- I HAVE one, but it's ~25 miles away & I'm not going to screw w/that today- IF someone else has one, I could get the positive onto the battery terminal & ground it elsewhere & HOPEFULLY get it charged enough to get 1 of the 3 doors open- Well see...

DAN- I've been waiting on you- I'm ready whenever you are- I was about to e-mail you b/c you had said you were going to get to me in early December IIRC, but I just laid low b/c I didn't want to bug you about it....

Thanks again everyone....