Please help...I can't get into my FU*$#%! car....
#16
Originally posted by Robby
I'm TRYING to find someone close by to bring a battery charger over- I HAVE one, but it's ~25 miles away & I'm not going to screw w/that today- IF someone else has one, I could get the positive onto the battery terminal & ground it elsewhere & HOPEFULLY get it charged enough to get 1 of the 3 doors open- Well see...
I'm TRYING to find someone close by to bring a battery charger over- I HAVE one, but it's ~25 miles away & I'm not going to screw w/that today- IF someone else has one, I could get the positive onto the battery terminal & ground it elsewhere & HOPEFULLY get it charged enough to get 1 of the 3 doors open- Well see...
#17
The newer cars have a microswitch for the rear hatch, my 90 S2 only has that, no manual backup, so the power has to be flowing in order for the rear hatch to open. The early cars also had a mechanical connection, so you could pop the hatch on the early cars (like my 86 951).
Dal.
Dal.
#18
if you really need into the car, and are willing to do a minor repair afterwards, you could force the sunroof open. If you pull the back up hard enough it will strip out the plastic gears that operate it, allowing you to remove the sunroof. The gears will run about $12 for the set, and takes about 30 minutes to replace them. This would only work on a car with the electric roof, and there is always the chance you could bend the roof or something, but it is an option.
#19
Ok, Robby, I'll pull things all together with your order and see what she comes in on weight. Shouldn't be too bad. And I want to make sure you get those extra relays & bases because I'm running low on the extra supply I bought for Rennlisters. Got to order 100 at a crack so it isn't a snap order deal and I am not in the auto supply biz so don't want to sit on expensive inventory.
You know, you can charge the battery up by hooking up the positive clamp up to the big starter terminal and the negative to the body or bellhousing. That should give you enough juice to pop the rear hatch. But you need to lift the car up a bit because you will never squeeze under it to the starter .... and I know you are a body builder so there is no way your chest will fit.
You know, you can charge the battery up by hooking up the positive clamp up to the big starter terminal and the negative to the body or bellhousing. That should give you enough juice to pop the rear hatch. But you need to lift the car up a bit because you will never squeeze under it to the starter .... and I know you are a body builder so there is no way your chest will fit.
#20
One time when my battery was dead and the hood was stuck shut I was able to slip the positive cable of the charger onto the battery terminal by just sticking it between the hood and windshield. I used paint stirring sticks to keep the connector from grounding to the hood and metal windshield framework. Stuck the negative onto the lower control arm under the car. Worked great but I didnt leave the car alone too long in case it started shorting out on the hood or something.
#21
Get the rear wheels OFF THE GROUND if your going to hook up to the starter area. If your ebrake is not set, or in great shape, and you make accidental contact with solenoid with car in gear.......well I wouldn't want to be under there! BE SAFE DOING IT!!! I'd try Jay W suggestion first.
#22
Robby,
On my '86 951 there is no electrical connection to the rear hatch. That's not to say yours is the same. Just confirming that mine does not have an electrical component. I just looked and the rear hatch mechanism is controlled by wire arms that move when you turn the key. The arms pull the sliding lock away from the rear hatch pins to release the hatch. For the forward cabin (drivers) release, there is a cable that runs to the front of the car. On mine, it's all mechanical.
On my '86 951 there is no electrical connection to the rear hatch. That's not to say yours is the same. Just confirming that mine does not have an electrical component. I just looked and the rear hatch mechanism is controlled by wire arms that move when you turn the key. The arms pull the sliding lock away from the rear hatch pins to release the hatch. For the forward cabin (drivers) release, there is a cable that runs to the front of the car. On mine, it's all mechanical.
#23
Originally posted by icat
Robby,
On my '86 951 there is no electrical connection to the rear hatch. That's not to say yours is the same. Just confirming that mine does not have an electrical component. I just looked and the rear hatch mechanism is controlled by wire arms that move when you turn the key. The arms pull the sliding lock away from the rear hatch pins to release the hatch. For the forward cabin (drivers) release, there is a cable that runs to the front of the car. On mine, it's all mechanical.
Robby,
On my '86 951 there is no electrical connection to the rear hatch. That's not to say yours is the same. Just confirming that mine does not have an electrical component. I just looked and the rear hatch mechanism is controlled by wire arms that move when you turn the key. The arms pull the sliding lock away from the rear hatch pins to release the hatch. For the forward cabin (drivers) release, there is a cable that runs to the front of the car. On mine, it's all mechanical.
I know all '89 and later cars are like that, I'm not sure about '87 & '88.
#24
Yes, evidently, the electrical hatch was available by '88, b/c when the guy who unlocked my car helped charge the battery, it would open- you can definately hear a motor in there- no doubt about it- I think I''d rather have a non-electrical one like the earlier ones- I wonder how much that motor weighs???
As for me being a "body builder" Dan....Yes, it's always a toss-up b/t me, Lou, & Arnold as to who's going to be the one to climb underneath the tight front spoiler to fix the Porsche...
But seriously- I'm about to give you a ring- we couldn't get the car started -there was NOTHING left on- I pretty much knew that anyway, but, the battery (`4 months old) was COMPLETELY DEAD! I'm going to take it to the mechanic- I just don't have time to mess w/it right now & I'm planning to get my new susp & several other things put on anyway...
Thanks for all the input guy's- I REALLY do appreciate it...
As for me being a "body builder" Dan....Yes, it's always a toss-up b/t me, Lou, & Arnold as to who's going to be the one to climb underneath the tight front spoiler to fix the Porsche...
But seriously- I'm about to give you a ring- we couldn't get the car started -there was NOTHING left on- I pretty much knew that anyway, but, the battery (`4 months old) was COMPLETELY DEAD! I'm going to take it to the mechanic- I just don't have time to mess w/it right now & I'm planning to get my new susp & several other things put on anyway...
Thanks for all the input guy's- I REALLY do appreciate it...
#25
Originally posted by 944Fest (aka Dan P)
I may be crazy here, but if you can jack it up and get to the starter, VERY carefully connect a battery charger to the big hot of the starter and some other ground, wouldn't it be possible to get some juice to the batt/locks this way? Be very careful, if the starter kicks you don't want to be under it (if it is in gear)
I may be crazy here, but if you can jack it up and get to the starter, VERY carefully connect a battery charger to the big hot of the starter and some other ground, wouldn't it be possible to get some juice to the batt/locks this way? Be very careful, if the starter kicks you don't want to be under it (if it is in gear)
#26
if you have a set of jumper cables and another car or battery you could connect the pos cable to a screwdriver and touch it to the battery terminal and ground the neg cable under the car and then release the rear hatch, use two people, one to hold the screwdriver and the other to open the hatch. Just be careful not to touch the hood with the screwdriver. The rear hatch motor doesnot pull very much juice and you should be able to get enough like this.
Good luck
Good luck
#27
Robby,
Glad to hear you're back in. I seem to recall a post several months ago about a "ghost" eletrical problem that was draining the juice from the battery. If I recall it had something to do with the door switches that turn on the dome lights when you get into the car. Try a search and see if you can find it - might be your issue as well.
Glad to hear you're back in. I seem to recall a post several months ago about a "ghost" eletrical problem that was draining the juice from the battery. If I recall it had something to do with the door switches that turn on the dome lights when you get into the car. Try a search and see if you can find it - might be your issue as well.
#28
I talked to Robby and the car service guy poped his car open in about 30 seconds. So much for being hard to steal a 951.
Robby's big problem is he had no acid in the battery which makes it sort of hard to get current flowing. Must have cracked the case open as the battery was only 4 months old.
Robby's big problem is he had no acid in the battery which makes it sort of hard to get current flowing. Must have cracked the case open as the battery was only 4 months old.
#29
Originally posted by IceShark
Robby's big problem is he had no acid in the battery which makes it sort of hard to get current flowing. Must have cracked the case open as the battery was only 4 months old.
Robby's big problem is he had no acid in the battery which makes it sort of hard to get current flowing. Must have cracked the case open as the battery was only 4 months old.
AND, BTW- 30 seconds is a VERY realistic estimate of how long it took this guy- it was probably a little less though & I am NOT exxagerating... He used an "S" tool & he was putting it back in his tool box when I got to the car- I'm SERIOUS TOO- he called me BEFORE he even got to my building & I went straight downstairs... it was pretty impressive actually... kind of "SCARY" impressive, but, impressive nonetheless...
Thanks again everyone...
Last edited by Robby; 01-02-2004 at 09:04 PM.