Which glue to secure hatch glass to frame?
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Join Date: Feb 2002
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Which glue to secure hatch glass to frame?
I plan on removing the hatch this week to re glue to glass to the frame. Does anyone know what type of glue I should use. Is this difficult to find?
Thanks
Christian
Thanks
Christian
#2
Burning Brakes
i'm thinking you'll want a high performance silicone - black, of course.
i would suggest Dow Corning 795 as a start - but research it a bit. Dow probably has a premium structural silicone used for joining monolithic glass sheets. IIRC, 795 is excellent but may not be classified as structural. Not sure how conservative you want to be.
note: silicone adhesives require a CLEAN substrate for optimum adhesion, and may require priming the substrate. This info. is from building, not automotive technology - so TIFWIW.
good luck
i would suggest Dow Corning 795 as a start - but research it a bit. Dow probably has a premium structural silicone used for joining monolithic glass sheets. IIRC, 795 is excellent but may not be classified as structural. Not sure how conservative you want to be.
note: silicone adhesives require a CLEAN substrate for optimum adhesion, and may require priming the substrate. This info. is from building, not automotive technology - so TIFWIW.
good luck
#3
Three Wheelin'
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Widsheild urethane available at paint shop or some automotive suppliers. Make sure you get the old off the frame and glass as much as possible doesn't have to be perfect. I lay windsheilds often on wrecked cars. I would lay a thin bead, If make the right kind of cut on the tip of the urethane tube this is very easy. I've not had mine aprt but I'm planning on it soon when I do some paint work on my car.
#4
Drifting
Originally posted by Mark Lue
The stuff you need is 3M Window-Weld Primerless Super Fast Urethane Auto Glass Sealant. It is 3M part #08609. Go to http://www.9xauto.com/944.html and have a look at 924/944/968 Rear Hatch Clinic, they have a great write up on doing this.
The stuff you need is 3M Window-Weld Primerless Super Fast Urethane Auto Glass Sealant. It is 3M part #08609. Go to http://www.9xauto.com/944.html and have a look at 924/944/968 Rear Hatch Clinic, they have a great write up on doing this.
#6
becareful depending on the damage ya might need a new frame my frame was so ****ed up i had to buy a new frame so i said forget it and i went ahead and bought the whole shabang all put together already
#7
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I checked with every local expert on Porsche hatches I could find before I repaired mine. I did NOT remove anything, as per the unanimous advice I got, but repaired all the unstuck bits with the best black silicone sealant available. Cleaned everything with meth two ways from Sunday, worked the sealant into every crack, wiped clean with meth-and-cloth, let dry, recleaned, then added a bead all around. It's only had two years so far, but so far it's perfect <cross fingers>.
Silicones are very good if perfectly applied, but are totally intolerant of the slightest traces of oil/grease.
Silicones are very good if perfectly applied, but are totally intolerant of the slightest traces of oil/grease.
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#8
Burning Brakes
your right, gleamingred - substrate prep for silicones is critical.
the urethanes are very good, dont get me wrong, but IMO, silicones are better.
the best part about urethanes is they are more forgiving regarding substrate prep and cleanliness.
the urethanes are very good, dont get me wrong, but IMO, silicones are better.
the best part about urethanes is they are more forgiving regarding substrate prep and cleanliness.
#9
I am in the middle of doing this job myself. This is the fourth hatch I have done, so I think I can claim some expertise on the subject.
First, 3-M Window-Weld is the right stuff to use. It will hold where nothing else will.
Second, I disagree with the "leave the window in place and try to stuff adhesive in" approach. To do it properly, completely remove the glass, clean and prime the frame, and then reseal it using the aforementioned 3-M product. Its more time consuming to do it that way, but you will be happier with the result over time. I have repaired two hatches without removing the glass, and the first one didn't hold. The second held, but it still squeaks. Not good, imo.
Lastly, to make it a permanent fix, do two things. 1) run an extra bead of adhesive around the inside of the glass where it meets the frame (not where it sandwiches between the glass and the frame, but on the interior part). If you spend a little bit of time spreading the adhesive, its not at all cosmetically challenging. 2) Mask the outside upper edge of the glass approxiamtely 5/8" (where the hinge bolts to the car) and spray some black spray paint on the outside to protect the adhesive seal from UV deterioration. That makes it last a lot longer and look better to boot.
Regards,
First, 3-M Window-Weld is the right stuff to use. It will hold where nothing else will.
Second, I disagree with the "leave the window in place and try to stuff adhesive in" approach. To do it properly, completely remove the glass, clean and prime the frame, and then reseal it using the aforementioned 3-M product. Its more time consuming to do it that way, but you will be happier with the result over time. I have repaired two hatches without removing the glass, and the first one didn't hold. The second held, but it still squeaks. Not good, imo.
Lastly, to make it a permanent fix, do two things. 1) run an extra bead of adhesive around the inside of the glass where it meets the frame (not where it sandwiches between the glass and the frame, but on the interior part). If you spend a little bit of time spreading the adhesive, its not at all cosmetically challenging. 2) Mask the outside upper edge of the glass approxiamtely 5/8" (where the hinge bolts to the car) and spray some black spray paint on the outside to protect the adhesive seal from UV deterioration. That makes it last a lot longer and look better to boot.
Regards,