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And $500 for that cam cover set is going to **** off my wife. I have to find a way to hide it. I just spent $300 yesterday on a manual rack. If she finds out I've bought another $500 in parts this month I'm toast.
note though it is labeled for an 87 NA so if you use the 9201 or krikit tool the tension values will be different for the 16v car with a much wider timing belt.
otherwise the diagram is accurate for you.
Be sure to lock your timing.. Google FRporschemans write up on the 968.
You should get a spare cheesehead bolt for the cam gear. My method is to place the breaker bar on my right shoulder, right hand on the countering wrench and left hand holding the bit square in the bolt. A couple taps prior to loosening helps.
The very first thing I did. I made that mistake with my 928 about 5 years ago, took me weeks to recover and a whole bunch of flop sweat. Not something I ever intend to repeat.
"1/2" bar is just fine for 155 lbft, i do this all the time."
Well, I tried, but somehow my pipe extensions got lost, they might be in Paso Robles. I used my 2' bar and hung from it and bounced with no joy. I weigh about 180 naked so that bolt is pretty well set. I'll soak in in PB blaster overnight and try again but I think I'm going to need the big bar.
Or if you really want to get sketchy, you can orient the bar in such a way that it is pointed at the bottom of the driver's side tire, put the jack head under the end of the bar, and use the jack/weight of the car to break it loose.
If you have Kano's Aero Kroil, or "Kroil" for short, use it. People who use it swear by it, including me. It is a great penetrating oil. "The oil that creeps!" -- I am in no way affiliated with the product. Just a happy user for years. Learned about it from working on 50+ year old tractors with stubborn fasteners. You may not need it for this project, but pick some up when you can.
Got the crankshaft bolt out using a 3/4" ratchet, 24mm deep socket and a 18" piece of 1" ID galvanized pipe on the ratchet. It squealed like a pig but it finally came out.
Also received the new aluminum cam covers from Ian but I'm having trouble locating the procedure for replacing them on Clark's site or the 16V WSM. Aside from following the marking directions for removing the distributor, are there any special considerations or marks needed to replace the front and rear cam covers?
So I have the new cam covers (thanks Thomas and also Ian) and I'm proceeding according to instructions I found on Clark's site along with the description given by Spencer, who mentions loosening the balance belt tensioner before removing the balance belt.
I'm not clear on which bolt to loosen. I've attached a photo of the S2 timing belt and the three bolts that make up the tensioner, but it isn't clear which of the three needs to be loosened?
01-30-2018, 08:31 PM
