Help Needed - Torque Tube Overlapping ?
12-17-2003, 04:28 PM
#1
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Help Needed - Torque Tube Overlapping ?
The engine is in and the clutch all together, but the torque tube is overlapping 1/2" (!). . . What am I doing wrong? The trans is bolted at the body (outboard ears of the upper "transom" mount) and the trans is as far back as it can physically go. The picture shows the crowbar I am using to coax some play out of it, but no success.
Anyone? I am about to start throwing tools into the street. grr: Everyone in the neighborhood has heard the string of obsenities since 10 AM and I think they are tired of it, so please help if you have been here before.
It is an '86 951 trans going into an '87 951 car, but I dont think that is the issue, is it?:
12-17-2003, 04:38 PM
#2
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I don't have any specific knowledge of touque tube installation but I DO know the frustration that goes with these situations. I don't believe there are any differences between '86 and '87 that would cause this, but as above there are people on this board with more knowlege.
I CAN suggest the obvious, go back over other things that might have bearing on this (is the other end installed correctly, is the new clutch sitting correctly, etc). otherwise, go have lunch and I bet it dawns on you before your done eating. OR, at least by then, you might have a better reply than mine.
I CAN suggest the obvious, go back over other things that might have bearing on this (is the other end installed correctly, is the new clutch sitting correctly, etc). otherwise, go have lunch and I bet it dawns on you before your done eating. OR, at least by then, you might have a better reply than mine.
12-17-2003, 04:42 PM
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Before you blow a "headgasket", the problem is your torque tube. The driveshaft has gotten tapped back a bit and that's why you see this overlap. If you look into the access hole in the tube bellhousing, I'd be the bolt relief cut is nowhere near it needs to be.
A suggestion, remove the tube, tap the driveshaft forwards until the relief cut is centered (roughly) in the access hole and reinstall. From your picture, the driveshaft pilot is not even near the pilot bearing. The relief cut can be as much as 1/8" either direction in the access hole and still bolt right back up.
Now, your driveshaft moved because either it impacted fairly strongly on something going into the clutch housing or if you just touched something and it moved that easily, you may have a couple of bad bearings. After tapping it back into place, spin and listen for noise. It should spin smooth and quiet. A word about tapping it- use block of wood or a brass or aluminum drift. Don't hit the shaft directly with a hammer. A direct hammer strike can mar the splines just enough that you won't be able to get the coupler to slide back on.
HTH
A suggestion, remove the tube, tap the driveshaft forwards until the relief cut is centered (roughly) in the access hole and reinstall. From your picture, the driveshaft pilot is not even near the pilot bearing. The relief cut can be as much as 1/8" either direction in the access hole and still bolt right back up.
Now, your driveshaft moved because either it impacted fairly strongly on something going into the clutch housing or if you just touched something and it moved that easily, you may have a couple of bad bearings. After tapping it back into place, spin and listen for noise. It should spin smooth and quiet. A word about tapping it- use block of wood or a brass or aluminum drift. Don't hit the shaft directly with a hammer. A direct hammer strike can mar the splines just enough that you won't be able to get the coupler to slide back on.
HTH
12-17-2003, 04:44 PM
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A clarification- the access hole I'm referring to is the small round one towards the front of the tube bellhousing.
Get some lunch and start back fresh.
Get some lunch and start back fresh.
12-17-2003, 04:46 PM
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Matt,
Looking at the picture I'm going to say that the shaft is not completely inserted into the clutch disc. Try getting a hand on it and rotating the shaft while pushing it towards the clutch housing. You may have to relieve some of the pressure by unbolting the tube at the bell housing. I'd stay away from the crowbar method if I can. If the tube is flush against the bellhousing then that's about the only reason it would be hanging out.
Looking at the picture I'm going to say that the shaft is not completely inserted into the clutch disc. Try getting a hand on it and rotating the shaft while pushing it towards the clutch housing. You may have to relieve some of the pressure by unbolting the tube at the bell housing. I'd stay away from the crowbar method if I can. If the tube is flush against the bellhousing then that's about the only reason it would be hanging out.
12-17-2003, 04:47 PM
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Looks like your drive shaft didn't make it into the pilot bearing in the end of the crank. The shaft has slipped inside the torq tube.
Have some one hold in the clutch while you gently force the shaft forward. May have to spin the engine a couple of times to get it to line up.
Have some one hold in the clutch while you gently force the shaft forward. May have to spin the engine a couple of times to get it to line up.
12-17-2003, 04:52 PM
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Better to unbolt the tube and slide it back a bit, reposition the driveshaft and then bolt it back up. That avoids moving anything in the bellhousing or damaging the pilot on the shaft.
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12-17-2003, 04:59 PM
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I GOT IT!
You knw that feeling when something finally goes right?
You guys were right, the tube had to be inserted into the clutch further. I had been concentrating on the trans end thinking . . . well, I dont know what I was thinking. Funny though, the crowbar chocked on the back of the torque tube never seemed to budge it - I must have tried this some 20 times. Inserting the bar in the hole I took the picture through and chocking it against the grove in the torque tube (where the bolt holds the coupler) did it. It was a tenuous hold and it slipped a lot (smacked myself in the face a few times, but hey, it's in).
A BIG THANKS for all the help.
You knw that feeling when something finally goes right?
You guys were right, the tube had to be inserted into the clutch further. I had been concentrating on the trans end thinking . . . well, I dont know what I was thinking. Funny though, the crowbar chocked on the back of the torque tube never seemed to budge it - I must have tried this some 20 times. Inserting the bar in the hole I took the picture through and chocking it against the grove in the torque tube (where the bolt holds the coupler) did it. It was a tenuous hold and it slipped a lot (smacked myself in the face a few times, but hey, it's in).
A BIG THANKS for all the help.