Engine Tin Sealing Question
02-17-2009, 02:58 PM
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Burning Brakes
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Engine Tin Sealing Question
When I removed the tins for paint, they were sealed to the engine with silicone. Is this the correct thing to do when I re-install them? Thanks
02-20-2009, 09:55 PM
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02-22-2009, 05:40 PM
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No it isn't. You should have a weatherstrip going around the engine compartment edge. The mount slot rusts off in some cases. Silicone seems like either an attempt to compensate for that, or the machinations of an obsessive mind...
02-22-2009, 10:49 PM
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I think he meant sealed to the ENGINE not the BODY. He probably means someone put a layer of silicone on the engine block before bolting/screwing the tins in place. Sounds like they were trying to maximize the air flow for maximum cooling. Not sure if this is correct or not but doesn't seem right to me.
JIM
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02-23-2009, 01:41 AM
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I think he meant sealed to the ENGINE not the BODY. He probably means someone put a layer of silicone on the engine block before bolting/screwing the tins in place. Sounds like they were trying to maximize the air flow for maximum cooling. Not sure if this is correct or not but doesn't seem right to me.
JIM
JIM
02-23-2009, 01:21 PM
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I think he meant sealed to the ENGINE not the BODY. He probably means someone put a layer of silicone on the engine block before bolting/screwing the tins in place. Sounds like they were trying to maximize the air flow for maximum cooling. Not sure if this is correct or not but doesn't seem right to me.
JIM
JIM
02-23-2009, 01:22 PM
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02-24-2009, 11:44 PM
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On my tins, there's evidence of weather stripping - the thin foam kind with an adhesive back. (Not the big rubber pieces where the tin connects to the body.)
Truthfully, I bet silicone would work well - although probably more for the tin-to-tin joints rather than the tin-to-engine joints. Because the majority of the air flow is going over the heads and the tops of the cylinders, I'd say this is the most critical area. The part where the tin touches the engine case probably isn't as important.
Truthfully, I bet silicone would work well - although probably more for the tin-to-tin joints rather than the tin-to-engine joints. Because the majority of the air flow is going over the heads and the tops of the cylinders, I'd say this is the most critical area. The part where the tin touches the engine case probably isn't as important.
