slivan

Gentlemen,
I've come to the realization I need to install a wide band O2 meter in my 930, especially after viewing Don E.'s latest meltdown.... Looking for input as to brand/durability/functionality/cost/vendors. I'm sure some are better than others, I need something that is reliable and doesn't look like the lights on christmas vacation when I get on it. What do you guys like? Running CIS (soon to be at it's limits) so it needs to stand alone. Much thanks.
Tom Slivan

A930Rocket

I like my Innovate LC-1 wideband. I guess the only issue is where to place the gauge. On my car, I installed it on a bracket I made to the roll cage by the left A piller.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=252&page=1

JBH

I have the Motec PLM - the gauge fits in the console opening. Someday it will interface with my EFI engine management system.
http://www.motec.com/products/plm/plm.htm

SGOGT4

I just completed the install of the Innovate LC-1 and XD-16 gauge. Ended up fabing a pretty slick metal mount plate out of a $.89 blank electrical wall cover from home depot that replaces my driver side vent dash. Width was perfect once I flipped it on its end and all I had to do was trim a little off either end with the dremel and cut the center hole. The existing scew holes even worked out for me. A little black spray paint and I was done. Very convenient ground and power wires running behind it and ut us about the least obtrusive yet usuable location I could find. I'll have to snap some pics.

slivan

Thanks guys. The Innovate seems to get the nod. Love to see your guage fab Rob!

E-man930

JBH,
Where did you buy your PLM from?
(if you don't mind, hom much?)

Geoffrey

Jeff,

You know that you can and need to free air calibrate the MoTeC PLM for each sensor you use? This is because of the differences in manufacturing tolerances of the Bosch LSU4 sensors. It can be as much as .5 AFR difference between sensors. Further, as sensors age, they begin to read differently and the free air calibration will allow for the recalibration as required.

I too would recommend the MoTeC PLM, it is one of the most accurate and well built units out there. You can get the PLM from any MoTeC dealer.

nathanUK '81 930 G50

Great info.

Can the Innovate be calibrated at home as well periodically ?

Geoffrey, which is the best to have for a DIYer regardless of cost ?

TIA

Geoffrey

I believe that the MoTeC PLM is the best to have regardless of cost. Several reasons:

1) It can use andy Bosch LSU 4.0, LUSU 4.2, or the labratory grade NTK sensor
2) It is programmable for Diesel, Gasoline, Methonal fuel types
3) It can display Lambda or AFR and you can select the filtering and the number of decimal points
4) It has the ability to calibrate the sensor in fresh air which matches it to the sensor
5) It is small and in a nice aluminum case which is very portable and there is a suction cup accessory for it.
6) It has an output channel and can output any 0-1 or 0-5 volt output so you can connect it to an ECU that will only accept narrowband input, allowing for wideband preprocessed AFR accuracy or to a PC input.

Although I'm a MoTeC dealer and could appear to be biased, I'm not on this point.

nathanUK '81 930 G50

Cool, thanks.

Can a compact digital readout be permanently installed in the car to use all the time ?

Geoffrey

I mounted the MoTeC PLM in place of the ash tray. It looks very factory.

JBH

Geoffrey:

Just a comment about sensors - yes the MoTeC can use either the Bosch or NTK sensors, but the harnesses (and price) are different - at least according to the website.

It was installed by Speedwerks, an authorized MoTec dealer so I am assuming they did the calibration. You don't say how often it needs to be calibrated or exactly how. I assume this is a function I can do with unit attached to the a laptop and using the software.

I am very happy with the unit

E-man930

Geoffrey,
You're PLM install seems like it's in the perfect spot!
Can you post another pic or two showing the meter lose up?
I'm trying to gauge how well it fits...

Geoffrey

Jeff, The connector is different between the NTK sensor and the LSU sensor which is why the wiring harnesses are different. I made an adapter cable so I can use either on mine, or you can unpin the old connector and install the correct connector if you wanted to swtich. The price difference reflects the difference between the cost of an LSU sensor and the lab grade NTK sensor which is roughly 5x higher. The NTK is 3x faster in reading O2 and is built for labratory measurements where the LSU is an OEM production street part found in cars like a Saturn. There is another Bosch sensor called the LSM-11 which is a motorsport sensor first used on Indy cars. Its technology is old and it is somewhat slow.

You'd have to ask your dealer if they did the free air calibration. I know that the sensors do vary and with the PLM factory default was .2 AFR different than after calibration to the sensor so I always perform the calibration on all ECUs and PLMs. The process is in your manual and only requires a DB9 pin serial cable and a laptop with the software. Most of the complaints I've heard from PLM users comes from a lack of calibration and a comparison to another meter they assume is correct. The PLM is the wide band lambda meter found in a Dynapack Dyno built specifically for engine mapping where something like a Mustang dyno uses an Innovate LM-1. Since I use my PLM for testing/tuning at times I have also upgraded the firmware on my PLM to the latest version. I have used the same sensor in the car for 7+ years and calibrated it each winter while servicing the engine and it changed slightly each time. It was installed about 2" from the turbine outlet.

Here are a few additional pictures of the PLM install in my turbo. The PLM is also not the most expensive meter out there. For instance the Autronic 'B' model analyzer costs 2x the price of the MoTeC PLM and is even more expnesive than their MOST expensive ECU and looks like a Heathkit project. It is also only compatible with their ECUs and uses a much less expensive NTK production street sensor.

I found a couple more pictures of the install. I used the factory screws and holes that held the ash tray in place.

JBH

Thanks for the info Geoffrey. I did not get the manual, though I think it is downloadable from the website. Mine is equipped with the serial cable - I'll try it this weekend.

I placed mine right in the console and put the Hot Lap Timer in the ash tray. Both fit perfectly. I'll post a picture tomorrow..