Tom F

Is the standard turbo support bracket (the one that mounts on three of the rear engine carrier studs on the crankcase) supposed to work with a K27-7200? I have an early 3.0 car, which had the thermal reactors, and I am changing to the later, post-86 exhaust, as well, so I am lacking a frame of reference for this. Also, UPS lost my 3LDZ, so I can't try that for fit, to see whether this is a problem with the dimensions of the turbo, or something on the exhaust or bracket.

The main problem is that when I mount the K27 to the support bracked, the turbo is around 1/2" to 3/4" to the left of where it should be. The turbo does seem to be in the right place, front to rear. Is the bracket for a later Turbo (post '86) different? Anyone else seen something like this and, if so, how did you resolve it?

Also, I cannot make the standard post-86, turbo oil sump fit, even if I leave the bracket off, and just hange the turbo on the exhaust "j pipe," because there is not enough room between the j pipe and the crankcase. However, I can get the original sump (the square kind for thermal reactor cars) to fit if I "reclock" the hot housing. Any thing wrong with using the square sump?

I am posting this on Pelican, as well. My apologies if you've read it twice.

Many thanks.

Kevin

When I switched to headers, I wanted to keep the mounting bracket to keep the weight and stress from cracking my headers.. I ended up cutting the bracket and re-welding it along the angle.. Can you take a picture with the turbo mounted to see your clearance issue with the sump?

A930Rocket

Some people slot the holes and slide it over to make it work. I left off the bracket.

Not sure about the tank, but if you reclock it, is the drain hole at the bottom still?

JoeMag

don't have bracket either. ...b&b headers.

slownrusty

I have B&B headers and I did not re-use that bracket.

Yasin

m.lovell

sorry to jump in on the thread with question....... I have just fitted a new rear muffler and it looks like i need to turn the mounting point on the turbo were it mounts on to the muffler so the exhaust outlets end up higher in the rear valance. Do I undo the big clamp around the 2 parts of the turbo or all the little bolts bolts to turn the mounting points ?

marc

Tom F

If it's a 3LDZ, then you loosen the v-band, which is the wide clamp around the inside of the hot housing. But, if you're turbo's been on there a while, don't expect it to be easy to rotate the hot housing.

Tom F

Based on a private mail I received and a note in B. Anderson's book, I'm judging, for now, that what I need to do is to mill 10 to 13 mm off the outlet side of the hot housing. Can anyone tell me exactly how much I should have milled off?

Kevin

The tip on machining 10-13mm was when the K27-7006 turbo was popular.. It is a different and larger turbine housing.. KKK has changed the K27-7200 casting, this casting does not have enough metal to shave of 10-13mm (almost a 1/2").. The bolt holes become to shallow and you end up having a crack form.. The crack that forms causes debris to be sent into the turbine wheel.

It is easier in the long run to cut and weld the support bracket...

It also must be noted that guys that aren't using the bracket will most definately have a cracked collector in a specific amount of time.. Typically problems occur within 2 years.. Your K27 weighs 21lbs and this stress which includes expansions of metal and additional stress from the intercooler and chassis flex, accelerates the chances of header cracks.. Crack=Damage to your turbine wheel..

Tom F

Kevin, does this mean that the muffler needs to be modified to get the tailpipe to line up with the bumper opening? Can you post a picture of how to modify the bracket? Thank you for your help.

Kevin

Tom F

Thank you, Kevin. I will take some shots of the sump, to show the problem with clearance. But, it may be a day before I post them.

I have a feeling that I'll be better off starting with a 3.3 turbo bracket (different part no.), so I'm ordering one of those, too.

125shifter

Something I'll need to fabricate. I guess I'll incorporate a bracket into the exhaust flange.

911rudy

I did the same thing to the bracket that Kevin did because it looked to me like there would be a lot of strain on the header/flange area. I don't know if any of you remember the "Gyroscopic" effect of a rapidly acclerating wheel but it is quite powerful. That coupled with engine movement and high temps, add up to trouble. I just mounted half on the turbo and half on the car and tacked them and then removed it a welded it up. Not hard.
Rudy

Kevin

As you can see I grabbed a new ceramic coated turbine housings and gasket and basically used half the bolts in place to get the bracket tack welded. I then welded both sides of the bracket and ground the welds flat, then ceramic coated the bracket.. Corrosion protection for the NW..