I have searched here and on Pelican and can't find a good set of turbo removal and reinstallation procedures. Does anyone have a good set they could point me to?

 

What specifically are you looking for? It really consists of removing the muffler, the oil feed and oil drain lines, cold air intake and turbo to intercooler pipe, and unbolting the turbocharger. Installation is the same, except you'll want to preoil the turbo by cranking the engine until oil comes out the oil drain, then connecting the oil drain line.

 

That's about what I was looking for, thanks! I just didn't know if there was a particular sequence and I wasn't sure about hot to pre-oil the turbo. Is removing the fuel pump relay the appropriate way to turn over the car without it starting (using the starter motor)?

 

Yes, you can remove the fuel pump relay..

What I like to see is that one does an oil change...

Then prior to connecting the oil inlet line to the turbo, turn the starter over to get fresh oil out of the oil inlet line and watch for air in the line.. Connect quickly to the turbo.

Turn the engine with the starter and build oil pressure.. Watch the oil pass through the turbo, connect the sump and start the engine.. Warm up the engine and watch for any leaks.. After 10-15 minutes turn the engine off and inspect everything..

If you are installing a new turbo, take it easy for the first 30-50-100 miles.. For the first 50 miles do not get on the boost.. We are trying to seat the sealing rings, 2 of them on the turbine side.. Stop and go traffic is Great for breaking in the turbo..

 

Thanks, Kevin, that was helpful (one of your K27HF's is going on the car, thus the ?)...

 

If you need a hand, let me know

 

OK, so I installed the K27HF. All seemed to be going well. I primed the oil line. I connected the oil line and then primed the turbo. I then connected everything and ran the car for 5 minutes at idle as directed. My problem: the oil feed line is leaking. It appears to be leaking where there is a crimp between a solid line and a flexible line (just about where the line passes through the metal shrouding). I do not have a schematic of these parts. Is this one line or two? Did I tweak this crimp when maneuvering the connection onto the turbo?

Ultimately I want to know: how do I fix this leak. Any suggestions?

 

Although not in focus, the line in the center of this picture is what I'm talking about. It is leaking around where the line comes from the engine compartment.

 

If its the oil supply line then it should go to the "top" of the turbo, not the bottom.
The supply line goes from the oil pressure switch, under the CIS stuff then to the turbo. It is a hard line that has a short rubber flexible section right before it connects to the turbo. Its near (or is) impossible to replace the entire line without removing all the CIS stuff. But, if you are patient, and it is leaking where the hard line meets the rubber one, you can replace the rubber hose & re-crimp it.

 

I have a flexible line inside the engine bay and a hard line under the car by the turbo as shown in the pic above. It is difficult to see where this line is leaking from. The flexible line is crimped on, but it is difficult to see if the leak is coming up from the crimp. What is the connection between the crimp and the hard line? Is there any play in there or any kind of nut that can be tightened? The leak almost seems to be coming from the bottom of the crimp area and not a failure in the crimp itself - if that makes any sense.

 

Charlie, that is the oil supply line. on my '89 there is a connection which can be tightend. If you look from the top and to the left of your distributor you should see the connection. The other area of leakage is the crimp where the rubber line meets the hardline just above that connection. As PT mentions this hose assembly come from the oilpressure switch and is made up of a hardline from the oil pressure switch to just above #1 cylinder, about 12 inches of rubber hose and then a short 90 degree hardline. If your leaking from a crimp, replacement of this assembly is a pain in the neck. There is a solution suggested by Andial. Carefully remove both crimps(I used a dremel with cut-off wheel) and replace with hose(I used some fuel injection hose) and hose clamps. The ends of the hardlines have a hose barb, so it will be secure. I have 15K on mine without any leaking. Hope fully its the connection that can be tightend with a couple of wrenches.

 

Charlie, like Mike said the oil inlet line from the turbo up toward the intercooler is hard-pipe, it is threaded on the end that attaches to the rubber line.. You need to carefully try to tighten the flex line to the hardpipe. Make sure that you use 2 wrenches.. If the actual crimp connection of the flex line is leaking due to old age, I suggest that you replace the line with a new one..

 

I will have to look more carefully. Keep in mind my car is a 3.6 Turbo and the line doesn't quite look like that. A friend with a C2 Turbo verified on his car that there appears to be a piece you can tighten. I will have to find a way to see the piece better, but all I see is a crimp. I'm not sure there is anything to tighten.

I will try to take more pictures to show the group here what my setup looks like.

 

OK, I'm sad to report that my line doesn't look like that. Here's a better picture. The hard line to the turbo appears to only end in a crimp at the soft line running back up into the engine.

Notice in this picture how the line goes right up into the crimp. I will run the motor again and perhaps try to get pictures of the leak, but it is leaking from around the base of that crimp, not at the top.



When I was attaching this line to the top of the turbo (pita, btw), the line "swung" to the side. I don't think I tweaked it, as it seemed to swing side to side fairly freely. Judging from the setup, the line must have been pivoting within that crimp. I figured that was normal. Is it?

 

Here's a picture from the top (engine compartment). Does this look like it is leaking up around the crimp (hose looks wet)? I will have to run the engine and check...