theiceman

What's the consensus ? My braking performance has been great I even have lots of pad left. I know there is a minimum thickness I can check but I did notice the rotors are far from smooth
Is the general consensus you chuck these out and replace ?

It's been so long I can't even remember if I have to set a bearing race in these or if they are just bolt ons.

Thanks

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

JMHO,

I NEVER machine/turn rotors on a car unless they are 322mm or larger and will never be used on a race track.

Genuine two-piece racing rotors can be Blanchard ground to restore the surface, but thats it.

Removing metal is simply the road to Perdition.

theiceman

ok I have received my beating as fully expected..

I couldn't remember if these were bolt ons or if I had to set the bearing race in them. once I heard they were knock offs I just ordered new ones ...

I might get the new ones turned and displayed as cool garage wall art though

Thanks Steve.

Mark Salvetti

What do you mean by "not smooth"? Are there deep grooves or do you feel pulsation in the pedal? As long as the runout is in spec and they are not tearing up the pads, I think you can leave them alone. They don't have to be mirror-smooth.

I don't turn rotors even on our regular cars. Our Fords used to last about 50K miles before warping (sedans, minivans, F150). I replaced them, as I figured taking material off would just cause them to warp faster.

Our CRV and RAV4 have original rotors that are still within spec at 130K and 90K miles respectively.

Mark

theiceman

That's the thing Mark the car brakes awesomely .. but when I look at them yuk !!!! I will see if I can get a decent pic with them on the car so you can see what I mean ..

theiceman

can you tell anything from this ?

r911

Looks Fugly

How do they measure??

theiceman

right ?? that's why I was gonna replace them ... how they measure dpends on which groove you take the measurement in

they are still on the car I snuck in with my camera in between the spokes.. I guess its 50 bucks for a zimmermann coated rotor so its really a no brainer no matter how they measure I guess.

Amber Gramps

Too bad you are so far away. I've got a full set of drilled Zimmerman rotors that are almost brand spankin' new.

You have to remove the hub and unbolt the rotor off the back of the hub to swap it out. Very easy job and you've got what, six months until springtime?

r911

its really a no brainer

Spyerx

Rotors for these cars are 'cheap' the expensive part is your time. So you pull one, find a shop that can resurface it, bring it there, maybe wait, or maybe go back. pay them, then put them on and well, you still have an old rotor its just got a smoother surface!

r911

you still have an old rotor - it's just got a smoother surface, and is thinner (so more prone to warping) and has less thermal mass

Mark Salvetti

One way to look at the grooves is they give you more surface area in contact with the pad (assuming the grooves are worn into the pad as well), and maybe slightly better braking?

So are you pads grooved too? If they are, then I think you need to replace them as well so you have full contact with the new rotor and they don't wear the new rotor unevenly.

I think they would have been fine, but I understand how you feel - they would have bothered me too.

Mark

theiceman

Mark I like how you think. Technically I have upgraded rotors because I have more surface if you follow the profile.
Yeah I have pads lying around some place. I also ordered calliper rebuild kits just in case.
Doug it was 70f today. I think we broke some records. But a few winter storms to go before spring

Amber Gramps

Don't worry Clive, mother nature is having her fun with me. It's freakin' cold here right now. 'Bout froze my tacobeans off when I walked outside.