bpu699

Make sure the oil wasn't overfilled. Put in Dino oil, and drive.

These cars leak from a bunch of places...

The dropping may get better with an oil change and driving. If it persists at that rate, you may need to act...

What exactly is a leaking lower seal? Are you talking about the seam at the bottom? That would never leak at that rate. Most other seals can be replaced without disassembling the motor.

Find out exactly where it's leaking and post a pic. May not be nearly as bad as you believe...

Cbwell

Yes, the seam at the bottom from what I understand. I'll see if I can get it up on the lift and take a pic before I bring it home. He can't get to it for 3 weeks so I was going to drive it in the meantime.

Is Dino noticeably different than valvoline vr1 20/50? That's what's in it.

bpu699

Vr1 comes in synthetic and Dino (conventional)...

Synthetic of any kind will leak.

The seam never leaks a drop ever 4 seconds... That would be way unusual. You could have a front or rear main seal leak, that can look like a seam leak...

Take a deep breath.

Put your car on a lift and wash the bottom extremely well, then see what leaks.

If it is the seam, drain the oil completely. Degrease the seam with DuPont degreaser, and smear on hondabond and let dry for a couple days.

Should last you several years... Not pretty, but will work. That oil isn't under pressure at the seam...

But again, I highly doubt you are leaking that much from the seam, unless you cracked the case by lifting there with a jack...

Deep breath... First mechanic was probably right. You probably have a main seal leak. $1500 to replace and that includes a clutch...

Cbwell

Great info and I hope you're right. I'll examine first hand tomorrow. I'll have a few weeks to do some experimenting as well. I definitely didn't lift it there with a jack.
Got it on the Dino, that's what I ordered for my next oil change which I'll do asap.

Thanks!

Spyerx

leaks on the RMS/FMS ALWAYS look like they are coming from the case split... honestly I've looked at a lot of AC 911 (I'm by no means a pro though) and leaks on the seams of later models don't seem common. Return tubes, seals, timing boxes, valve covers sure...

I think worth poking in a bit more and making 100% sure. Clean it up really good with a pressure washer. Drive it. Then find where it's leaking.

Bloose993TT

Sounds like the act of Real Muscle Classics? I have no problem mentioning these guys even if you didn't buy the car from them. They have been called out multiple times for misrepresenting Porsches.

Anyhow, enjoy driving the 930. It seems to be a nice modded car even after the late surprises you found.

Adams

Would love to know if that's the dealer, as I've clicked on a few of their ads.

Far as the car goes, hoping your leak is as minor as originally considered and that you get to drive the car. You sound pretty upbeat and positive about ownership. Given the circumstances that's laudable.

Guess we all get to live and learn. We've all had 'those deals'. I realize you're probably still fuming, but there are many dealers who are phenomenally upfront and honest, including independents. But if you end up doing a big engine job, you'll have a car you know and can trust for years. Maybe that was your car's way of giving a plea for being adopted for the long term!

And Bloose, I find your posts very difficult to focus on with your avatar yanking my attention away constantly.

Cbwell

Bloose- we have a winner- you are correct, it's them.

I can only imagine how many issues people have had since they said I was one of the first people to ever visit them in person. They do a lot of online, remote, business. I saw some of the cars they are advertising now and their descriptions of them are very flattering compared to what they look like in person.

Cbwell

Update- I got clarification on the oil leak. it's coming from the o-ring behind the main pulley. There is evidence that somebody tried to JB Weld it in the past. Leaking one drop every 4 seconds. Should have been picked up on the PPI. It's not the bottom seal as I originally reported.

So.... anybody ever had a good outcome trying to go back to the shop that did a PPI and hold them accountable for missing the obvious?

theiceman

Thats actually a pretty easy fix if its a similar setup to the SC.

Cbwell

The o-ring on this is internal- between the cases, so tearing it apart is the only way to get to it unfortunately.

Antny930

Hold on. Based on you're original post, you saw the leak when you had it up on the lift for the PPI: "I took it for a PPI at a well known shop (yet to be named). We got it on the lift and did a cursory overview and discovered a couple of oil leaks- a front seal and the valve covers, but nothing else major."

Based on this alone, I'd say that you knew about the leak, but decided to buy it anyway. How is the PPI shop to blame for this?

Cbwell

The shop said the leak was coming from a front seal- 1,500 job. It's coming from the o-ring behind the pulley which requires me to split the cases- 10K job. Big difference.

I know people can miss things but my mechanic saw the issue very quickly, along with the JB Weld. Mis-diagnosis from the original PPI.

Antny930

I think you hit the nail on the head; people miss things. One option you have is to bring the car to the shop that quoted you $1500 to repair it, and have them do it for $1500.

BTW, I just had my engine/trans removed and rebuilt completely by the top Porsche shop in the northeast, including crank polishing and some other tweaks. Total bill was $10,000. So $10,000 should buy you much much more than just a re-seal.

bpu699

What exactly is an "o-ring behind the main pulley." The main seal for the crankshaft is easily removed and replaced, I believe, without rebuilding the motor...